Bendy knob.....
Discussion
Yeah I know it's friday and your probably sitting down with a cold one in hand, but could you assist with a little advise please.
Three things with a G50/03 RH rod shift:
a) Should the connector to the gear selector at the box be horizontal with the box in neutral? If not, at what angle up or down?
b) Gear lever is a bent bar, with the bent slightly off centre. Long end up or long end down?
c) Gear lever, again. If the lower section below the upper rose joint is kept vertical, by saying that straight ahead of the vehicle is 0 degrees, and going clockwise, what angle should the upper section be to give best 'knuckle' clearance?
Ready? Go!!!!!
Ta, Pete
Three things with a G50/03 RH rod shift:
a) Should the connector to the gear selector at the box be horizontal with the box in neutral? If not, at what angle up or down?
b) Gear lever is a bent bar, with the bent slightly off centre. Long end up or long end down?
c) Gear lever, again. If the lower section below the upper rose joint is kept vertical, by saying that straight ahead of the vehicle is 0 degrees, and going clockwise, what angle should the upper section be to give best 'knuckle' clearance?
Ready? Go!!!!!
Ta, Pete
luckyp said:
Yeah I know it's friday and your probably sitting down with a cold one in hand, but could you assist with a little advise please.
Three things with a G50/03 RH rod shift:
a) Should the connector to the gear selector at the box be horizontal with the box in neutral? If not, at what angle up or down?
b) Gear lever is a bent bar, with the bent slightly off centre. Long end up or long end down?
c) Gear lever, again. If the lower section below the upper rose joint is kept vertical, by saying that straight ahead of the vehicle is 0 degrees, and going clockwise, what angle should the upper section be to give best 'knuckle' clearance?
Ready? Go!!!!!
Ta, Pete
The selector arm will be horizontal. You have no choice as both the selector and shaft are drilled. (having doubts now, perhaps the selector does not com drilled. It was a while ago now).
The long bit is up.
About 280 degrees on mine but this is personal choice.
You need to consider driving a bunch of keys into your knuckles when going for 5th. and your seating position. Most I have seen are at 270 degrees.
Steve
The 280 felt right at the time but that was without the keys in. I do clatter into them so perhaps 270 would be better.
[/sittingincarmode]
The end of my elbow sits directly over the inner chassis rail. 50mm above the ali skin and with 50mm clearance to the underside of the scallop in the door. A nice fit really. There is no way your elbows will be anywhere near the side of the seat.
Steve
P.S. How many more time this evening have I to go and sit in the car? Not that I mind but it increases the risk of getting caught going 'broom broom'.
[/sittingincarmode]
The end of my elbow sits directly over the inner chassis rail. 50mm above the ali skin and with 50mm clearance to the underside of the scallop in the door. A nice fit really. There is no way your elbows will be anywhere near the side of the seat.
Steve
P.S. How many more time this evening have I to go and sit in the car? Not that I mind but it increases the risk of getting caught going 'broom broom'.
Fooking job that one. Note to self, knock roll pins in before sticking engine in the way!
Knob inserted at 270. Clear of dash, UJ reverse contact but looks like I'll have to perfcct the 4th to 5th with palm of the hand technique.........not a lot of knuckle space.
Night night all......... zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
Knob inserted at 270. Clear of dash, UJ reverse contact but looks like I'll have to perfcct the 4th to 5th with palm of the hand technique.........not a lot of knuckle space.
Night night all......... zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
This issue has been on my mind for a few days too.... not Lucky's knob, mine.
In particular I was wondering about reverse block-out. In the Porsche I recall pushing my knob down to get in reverse, meaning the block-out is in the shifter.
Has anyone got a block-out solution, or is this a non-issue?
In particular I was wondering about reverse block-out. In the Porsche I recall pushing my knob down to get in reverse, meaning the block-out is in the shifter.
Has anyone got a block-out solution, or is this a non-issue?
Grant
On the G50 the reverse safety feature is a spring loaded plunger in some sort of detent. Normal movement of the lever comes up against a stop. This is overcome with a sharp sideways pull across the gate.
Peter
The whole lever mechanism can be moved further away from the side skin by engaging the top rose joint the barest minimum into the captive nut welded into the chassis and screwing the bottom one as far in as possible. This should give the required knuckle clearance. For reference the fore/aft shaft is 23mm away from the skin (main shaft dia. not the wasted bit that goes into the lower rose joint). Where the lever comes out above the upper joint it is 40mm from the skin. The U/J is straight when in neutral.
Steve
On the G50 the reverse safety feature is a spring loaded plunger in some sort of detent. Normal movement of the lever comes up against a stop. This is overcome with a sharp sideways pull across the gate.
Peter
The whole lever mechanism can be moved further away from the side skin by engaging the top rose joint the barest minimum into the captive nut welded into the chassis and screwing the bottom one as far in as possible. This should give the required knuckle clearance. For reference the fore/aft shaft is 23mm away from the skin (main shaft dia. not the wasted bit that goes into the lower rose joint). Where the lever comes out above the upper joint it is 40mm from the skin. The U/J is straight when in neutral.
Steve
luckyp said:
Fooking job that one. Note to self, knock roll pins in before sticking engine in the way!
You could always use a variation of my patented rollpin removal/insertion tool
rollpin removal tool
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