Cold starting with no choke
Discussion
Folks, do any of you without a choke have problems with cold starting ? I've just fired up my 'stock' AS 600BHP 406 for the first few times recently and each time from cold she keeps stalling (when warm she runs fine). I pump the throttle a few times before starting and that fires her up but then it's really hard keeping her running until she's warmed up (sound like anyone you know ?
). I'm no mechanical whiz and I'm also used to having a choke for cold starting, so I'm not entirely sure what to do about it. Any ideas ?
). I'm no mechanical whiz and I'm also used to having a choke for cold starting, so I'm not entirely sure what to do about it. Any ideas ?No choke, lairy 406.. Get used to it!!
We have exactly the same problem with the 383 in the dragster.. It really does hate cold starting.. You do exactly as we do, a couple of prods of the throttle then spin it over, then start dancing on the throttle to keep the bugger alive until it settles into it's normal rythmn as the temps come up..
slinky
587racing.com
We have exactly the same problem with the 383 in the dragster.. It really does hate cold starting.. You do exactly as we do, a couple of prods of the throttle then spin it over, then start dancing on the throttle to keep the bugger alive until it settles into it's normal rythmn as the temps come up..
slinky
587racing.com
ultimad said:
Just can't hold it at any rev when it first starts without it stalling multiple times. Could there be anything incorrectly set up ?
Doesn't sound like there is anything wrong at all.. Getting decent atomisation without any temperature in the heads is a bitch..
You could fit a choke but you'll lose about 20cfm (ish) of flow through the carb..
We will need to dance the throttle a little without a choke though.. we can't hold a constant throttle angle on the 383 when it's properly cold..
You'll get used to it, or retro-fit a choke!
slinky
Was trying to solve the same problem. Having a Holley HP carb, a retrofit of a choke is not even possible. (but then it does not stall anymore under heavy breaking...)
What I found out about starting when cold: pump 2-3 times, then start and immediately rev to approx. 2000 to 2.500 rpm. Then keep it at this level for some time, depending on how cold the outside temps are, probably more then 30 seconds. At least on my engine/carb, if you start to "dance" it immediately dies, so DONT DO IT. You should just not move with the gas pedal AT ALL.
Each engine / carb can of course behave in a different way.
After being sufficiently p****d off with this starting behaviour, I decided to spend some money and installed an engine pre-heating system. It is, from what I remember, from Kenlowe, is external, and heats the engine coolant to approx. 50 deg. C before starting. Of course you need to switch it on approx. 1/2 hour before you go for a drive, this might be annoying. But then it will start without any problems and idles immediately.
On my new LS7 I will not need the system anymore, so if anyone will be interested in that in Autumn, pls. let me know. Installation is very easy, just remove two water plugs on the engine and bolt on the dry connectors.
Peter
What I found out about starting when cold: pump 2-3 times, then start and immediately rev to approx. 2000 to 2.500 rpm. Then keep it at this level for some time, depending on how cold the outside temps are, probably more then 30 seconds. At least on my engine/carb, if you start to "dance" it immediately dies, so DONT DO IT. You should just not move with the gas pedal AT ALL.
Each engine / carb can of course behave in a different way.
After being sufficiently p****d off with this starting behaviour, I decided to spend some money and installed an engine pre-heating system. It is, from what I remember, from Kenlowe, is external, and heats the engine coolant to approx. 50 deg. C before starting. Of course you need to switch it on approx. 1/2 hour before you go for a drive, this might be annoying. But then it will start without any problems and idles immediately.
On my new LS7 I will not need the system anymore, so if anyone will be interested in that in Autumn, pls. let me know. Installation is very easy, just remove two water plugs on the engine and bolt on the dry connectors.
Peter
ultimacz said:
Was trying to solve the same problem. Having a Holley HP carb, a retrofit of a choke is not even possible. (but then it does not stall anymore under heavy breaking...)
What I found out about starting when cold: pump 2-3 times, then start and immediately rev to approx. 2000 to 2.500 rpm. Then keep it at this level for some time, depending on how cold the outside temps are, probably more then 30 seconds. At least on my engine/carb, if you start to "dance" it immediately dies, so DONT DO IT. You should just not move with the gas pedal AT ALL.
Each engine / carb can of course behave in a different way.
After being sufficiently p****d off with this starting behaviour, I decided to spend some money and installed an engine pre-heating system. It is, from what I remember, from Kenlowe, is external, and heats the engine coolant to approx. 50 deg. C before starting. Of course you need to switch it on approx. 1/2 hour before you go for a drive, this might be annoying. But then it will start without any problems and idles immediately.
On my new LS7 I will not need the system anymore, so if anyone will be interested in that in Autumn, pls. let me know. Installation is very easy, just remove two water plugs on the engine and bolt on the dry connectors.
Peter
Ah the joys of lumpy cams and no manifold heat.
engine preheating sounds a tad drastic to me tho, sureley it wouldve been cheaper to just buy a new choke equiped holley? althougth instant cab heat in the winter must be nice
I always binned the choke on my holleys and used the accellerator pumps. It doesn't teke long for the engine to stabilise. As slinky says, the choke plate is a big restriction, I read it's almost as much as 50 cfm. You could try a holley commander projection or learn to adapt to what you have.
Boosted.
Boosted.
hodgy587 said:
engine preheating sounds a tad drastic to me tho, sureley it wouldve been cheaper to just buy a new choke equiped holley? althougth instant cab heat in the winter must be nice
Not sure whether this is drastic. It is not only to keep it from stalling, I think it also reduces engine wear a lot. If you heat the coolant it means that the whole block gets heated and also, partly, the oil. I was told that for engine wear it is worst thing you can do to rev it when cold.
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