Rear Canopy Catches (CanAm)
Discussion
Has anyone come up with a better catch system for the rear canopy? I'm not very happy with the way it closes, it seems like you are relying on the rubber buffers to tension the clip against the catches! and it's only a single click to shut at that.
I was thinking along the lines of a hatchback catch and release as apposed to a bonnet (hood) catch.
Graham
I was thinking along the lines of a hatchback catch and release as apposed to a bonnet (hood) catch.
Graham
I may be talking nonsense here but am I not correct in saying that the only problems that have been experienced with regards to rear clips causing a problem in that area have been down to owners not checking that the latch has latched successfully? Indeed, as I understand it, the factory did introduce a twin LED warning system to check from inside the cockpit that the latches have indeed successfully engaged. I am showing an interest as much as anything as my rear clip is due to be fitted soon and I would like at this stage to pre-empt any potential problems in this area.
I think if you carry out a search you will find some threads on this subject. About 2 years ago many debates. I have not had a problem with the catch system over 3 years more with the rubber buffers which gradually seam to dissolve. I did have a factory fitted led warning system fitted to the catches. This I would highly recommend. Again in 3 years it has saved my bacon just a few times which is enough. If you have heard the stories of what happens if the clip opens at speed you will realise how important it is to make sure if closed
I was worried about this on my spyder. Not sure if you can do what I did on the new cars, but I put a very large (5 inch) pip pin through the centre where the hood closes. Goes from the cockpit through under the roll bar to the rear canopy. Put large heavy washers both sides of the fibre glass as well. So if I left all the pins off of the hood you still can not open the hood, unless you break the 5 inch pip pin.... and that wont happen!
shithotfast said:
I was worried about this on my spyder. Not sure if you can do what I did on the new cars, but I put a very large (5 inch) pip pin through the centre where the hood closes. Goes from the cockpit through under the roll bar to the rear canopy. Put large heavy washers both sides of the fibre glass as well. So if I left all the pins off of the hood you still can not open the hood, unless you break the 5 inch pip pin.... and that wont happen!
The problem with this approach is that the clip flies open because the driver forgot to latch it so the same goes for forgetting to put the pin in.
The microswitches I use are connected to a buzzer in the cockpit telling me one or more of the latches are not secure.
Steve
Chris will be interested in how you get on with backwash of heat. Also blocked vent and find when you stop you still get a heat wash comes back into cabin. Its a bit like the wake you get over the stern of a boat if you stop too quick. I have to say the alternative of keeping the heat under the canopy dosn't make sence either. Do you think the vents as you have them will creat some form of suction on the move a little like an aircraft wing. Also you have side sopes so on the move there must be some form of increased forced airflow through the engine bay. How about set of wheel arch vents on front to cool brakes like the Le Mans cars.
You will have a very individual car. Please let me know if you are going to factory day I would not want to miss the look on Teds face for all the world.
You will have a very individual car. Please let me know if you are going to factory day I would not want to miss the look on Teds face for all the world.
The problem with this approach is that the clip flies open because the driver forgot to latch it so the same goes for forgetting to put the pin in.
The microswitches I use are connected to a buzzer in the cockpit telling me one or more of the latches are not secure.
Steve[/quote]
Hi steve, yes this is more aimed at the older cars. On a couple of sports/spyders the actual clips failed (broke off!) so yes in this case the buzzer would sound, and half a second later the canopy flies open. The idea was that the pip pin cant break or come loose. The factory recalled all the older clips because a few broke off. My cousin was racing a sport a few years ago at castle coombe and the canopy opened at about 140mph.... car is no longer!
crazy of cookham said:
Chris will be interested in how you get on with backwash of heat. Also blocked vent and find when you stop you still get a heat wash comes back into cabin. Its a bit like the wake you get over the stern of a boat if you stop too quick. I have to say the alternative of keeping the heat under the canopy dosn't make sence either. Do you think the vents as you have them will creat some form of suction on the move a little like an aircraft wing. Also you have side sopes so on the move there must be some form of increased forced airflow through the engine bay. How about set of wheel arch vents on front to cool brakes like the Le Mans cars.
You will have a very individual car. Please let me know if you are going to factory day I would not want to miss the look on Teds face for all the world.
You will have a very individual car. Please let me know if you are going to factory day I would not want to miss the look on Teds face for all the world.
Think this ended up in the wrong thread Brian! See my relpy on the vent thread.
stig said:
GTWayne said:
Just out of interest, do you still have the damaged rear clip?
IIRC, I think it ended up at Masters Motorsport?
You're right. They were going to make a long tail. Don't know if it ever happened. It was a garden ornament for a while
All I needed was a Cortina up on blocks and the neighbours would have been really happy.Gassing Station | Ultima | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff