GTR fuel tanks-Advice please
Discussion
I am going with an LS7 and want to have the fuel tanks equalize themselves. So I'm planning on cutting a hole in the tanks to take out the foam, so that I can have a new -12AN fitting welded in on each tank. This will allow filling from either tank. I plan on having a in-tank fuel pump to supply the FI motor and returning to the same tank. I'll use a Fuelsafe plate to cover the holes that I cut to get out the foam.
The challenge. The fittings on the tanks are 2.5" above the bottom of the tank. So that will prevent quite a bit of fuel in the secondary tank from ever being used.
Thats the plan. I'd appreciate your input-pro or con.
Thanks,
Paul
The challenge. The fittings on the tanks are 2.5" above the bottom of the tank. So that will prevent quite a bit of fuel in the secondary tank from ever being used.
Thats the plan. I'd appreciate your input-pro or con.
Thanks,
Paul
I did mine that way, it wasn't a problem. I drilled the hole, added the bung to the outside and tig welded it. Came out fine. No need to tear apart the tank. Make sure to get all the shavings out. I would suggest larger than an AN 12 though. Otherwise it takes a while to fill...
Bill
Bill
I had my tanks made with -12AN fittings all round.
There's two on the bottom of each tank, with -12 lines joining the tanks together. One of the lines has a tee in it... there's a reducer down to -8, then a filter and a pump, then a reducer to -6 and up to the regulator in -6 line.
Return is -6 down to a tee fitting, then back to the top of each tank.... should have had -6 fittings for return but wasnt thinking so I have a -12 to -6 reducer at the top of each tank.
There's two on the bottom of each tank, with -12 lines joining the tanks together. One of the lines has a tee in it... there's a reducer down to -8, then a filter and a pump, then a reducer to -6 and up to the regulator in -6 line.
Return is -6 down to a tee fitting, then back to the top of each tank.... should have had -6 fittings for return but wasnt thinking so I have a -12 to -6 reducer at the top of each tank.
tblackey said:
I did mine that way, it wasn't a problem. I drilled the hole, added the bung to the outside and tig welded it. Came out fine. No need to tear apart the tank. Make sure to get all the shavings out. I would suggest larger than an AN 12 though. Otherwise it takes a while to fill...
Bill
Bill
I have -12 link pipe between tanks and Bill is right, it does take a little more time to fill, but this is no bad thing because should you inadvertently overfill due to pumping at full speed, the fumes will be almost unbearable because you are in such close proximity.
I'm not familair with GTR fuel tanks so I'm sorry if I'm way off asking this. Are you going to install a sump or baffle setup in the tank when it's open or do they already come that way? I know standard unbaffled/sumped carbed fuel tanks are horrible when under half full and used with efi. I've installed in tank pumps and factory baffles to deal with it when using them though.
I welded a -12 fitting about 3/4 up the inside of both tanks and used the top -06 fitting as an air cross over tube. Didn't touch the foam.
My thoughts were that the car should be able to be fueled from one side also, but I didn't want the fuel to slosh back and forth in the twisties at low fuel levels. It is likely that this is overkill as the foam in the tanks would limit the slosh.
This works well, however if I could do it over I would use a -16 crossover. To fuel the car I park with the side nearest the fuel station pump down hill, take off both caps and fuel it up. It takes some time for the fuel to cross over but it beats moving the car to fuel both tanks. When you do the welding make sure that you use some heat sink material to prevent the tanks from warping.
Also, remember to sand and prime the tanks before you paint them.
My thoughts were that the car should be able to be fueled from one side also, but I didn't want the fuel to slosh back and forth in the twisties at low fuel levels. It is likely that this is overkill as the foam in the tanks would limit the slosh.
This works well, however if I could do it over I would use a -16 crossover. To fuel the car I park with the side nearest the fuel station pump down hill, take off both caps and fuel it up. It takes some time for the fuel to cross over but it beats moving the car to fuel both tanks. When you do the welding make sure that you use some heat sink material to prevent the tanks from warping.
Also, remember to sand and prime the tanks before you paint them.
So Kevin, let me understand you. When you welded in the -12's, did you try to move the foam away from the hot area? In my experience, the foam is pretty tough stuff and is hard to move. But that was down at the bottom of the tank. If I were to do it up higher that might be easier.
Send me an email with pics if you can at quailpark at mac dot com.
Thanks,
Paul
Send me an email with pics if you can at quailpark at mac dot com.
Thanks,
Paul
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