heavy braking oil starvation solution?
Discussion
The need for an oil cooler will depend on the power of your engine. From the talk of track days/heavy brakeing I suspect you will have a fair few horses so the answer will be yes.
Mocal recon for every 1000RPM above normal operating revs requires a threefold increase in cooling.
Steve
Mocal recon for every 1000RPM above normal operating revs requires a threefold increase in cooling.
Steve
I ran my AS engine for a short period without oil cooler or accusump.
It was only whilst running in but it proved to me without a doubt that the engine needed it, I fitted both and have had no problems on either road or track.
Personnelly I would run the dry sump system if you intend to do a lot of track use.
It was only whilst running in but it proved to me without a doubt that the engine needed it, I fitted both and have had no problems on either road or track.
Personnelly I would run the dry sump system if you intend to do a lot of track use.
Just read another bit from Mocal.
They say it is standard practic to fit the cooler in the line from the sump to the tank. The reason being that this is not a high pressure line so a failure of the cooler would not lose so much oil.
Mocal say this line will be aerated and therefore not efficient cooling. Also in cold conditions the restiction in the cooler could blow it.
They say put it in the pressure line after the filter.
Steve
They say it is standard practic to fit the cooler in the line from the sump to the tank. The reason being that this is not a high pressure line so a failure of the cooler would not lose so much oil.
Mocal say this line will be aerated and therefore not efficient cooling. Also in cold conditions the restiction in the cooler could blow it.
They say put it in the pressure line after the filter.
Steve
Ultiman
I only know of one version of Accusump. It has 6 PSI air pressure behind the piston. There are 2 ways to operate it. A manual valve or an electric valve. I assume you have to remember to close the manual valve before you switch the engine off then open it again just as you start to crank the engine on startup. The electric one just closes the valve as you switch off and opens when you switch on.
Steve
I only know of one version of Accusump. It has 6 PSI air pressure behind the piston. There are 2 ways to operate it. A manual valve or an electric valve. I assume you have to remember to close the manual valve before you switch the engine off then open it again just as you start to crank the engine on startup. The electric one just closes the valve as you switch off and opens when you switch on.
Steve
Steve
The third way is to use both as I have so that you can close the valve whilst the car is running, stop the engine and check the oil level acuarately
.
For information I saw as low as 4psi under braking without the accusump with an oil level at top of the dipstick.
Only for a fraction of a second mind, but having a STACK means instant readings and 'tell tales'.
With it fitted I have never seen below 20psi.
The third way is to use both as I have so that you can close the valve whilst the car is running, stop the engine and check the oil level acuarately
. For information I saw as low as 4psi under braking without the accusump with an oil level at top of the dipstick.
Only for a fraction of a second mind, but having a STACK means instant readings and 'tell tales'.
With it fitted I have never seen below 20psi.
ultiman said: For those without dry sumps or accusumps, do you find oil pressure drops alarmingly on heavy breaking once engine revs drop and also on right hand bends. l know many have powered accusumps but does anyone have experience of the sprung versions?
That's oil surge. You want to look at the pickup of your oil pump, and make sure that it's the correct one for your sump.
A baffled sump is a good idea as a minimum if you're going out on the track. Dry sump is ideal, but rather expensive if you're just going out for the odd pootle round a track.
James
ultiman said: Can the sump be removed with the engine in the car, ie is there a lip of some sort preventing the sump pan from being slid free of the underside of the engine?
Yes the Chassis rail under the back of the engine, will be in the way. You may have to remove the gearbox and lift the engine up. Such is life ...
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