When to do an oil change?
Discussion
Personally I would change before. I have the same date at the Track, RAF Marham. I have changed oil, plugs, coolant and checked the Valve lash. If the oil is black that is the time to change it at a minimum. It is always good to start the new season with a serviced car.
Incidentally, I would always try to do this myself. Last year I lost a bolt from the alternator that tensions the water pump and alternator belt. I took the car to a garage around the corner from where I live, it was convenient and I do not have a ramp or possessed a trolley jack (at the time) to get the car up on axle stands. To cut a long story short last night in finishing the servicing I noticed that the alternator bracket was very close to the chassis. The Garage had failed to notice that there were actually two bolts missing, one from the support bracket and one from the tensioning bar so the alternator would still move even with the tension bar set. £70 for the bolt and fitting. I also needed to have an oil change last year. They charged me for 1 ½ hours labour and I provided the oil. This took me 30 minutes to complete myself. DO IT YOURSELF. At least you know that it is done properly.
Neil’s Garage in Ramsay has been most accommodating in helping out. I really do not know this guy from Adam, only though his brother in-law. In an effort to obtain this 3/8” 2”long UNC bolt and have the car fixed last night my friend left to get one from work. Neil wanted to go home so left me with the Garage and keys, saying if you need anything help yourself. Has saved me lots of money in garage fees. A few beers are owed I think.
Incidentally, I would always try to do this myself. Last year I lost a bolt from the alternator that tensions the water pump and alternator belt. I took the car to a garage around the corner from where I live, it was convenient and I do not have a ramp or possessed a trolley jack (at the time) to get the car up on axle stands. To cut a long story short last night in finishing the servicing I noticed that the alternator bracket was very close to the chassis. The Garage had failed to notice that there were actually two bolts missing, one from the support bracket and one from the tensioning bar so the alternator would still move even with the tension bar set. £70 for the bolt and fitting. I also needed to have an oil change last year. They charged me for 1 ½ hours labour and I provided the oil. This took me 30 minutes to complete myself. DO IT YOURSELF. At least you know that it is done properly.
Neil’s Garage in Ramsay has been most accommodating in helping out. I really do not know this guy from Adam, only though his brother in-law. In an effort to obtain this 3/8” 2”long UNC bolt and have the car fixed last night my friend left to get one from work. Neil wanted to go home so left me with the Garage and keys, saying if you need anything help yourself. Has saved me lots of money in garage fees. A few beers are owed I think.
Edited by scuff on Wednesday 28th March 12:43
I have done 500 miles from new. When do you think I should do my first oil change ? Also, I noticed Amerspeed mention adjusting the valve lash after 1000 (or less) in their docco. I have never done this procedure before. How would I know if it needs adjusting and how do I do it ? Or should I leave it to a mechanic ?
Hi Ultimad.,
I am changing the oil every 1000 miles or unless it looks black before then. I also complete the Valve lash at the same time.
You will know the valve lash needs to be done as you can hear the tappety noise as the revs increase. Once done there is a noticable difference to the quietness of the engine.
The valve lash is not hard to do at all. It is the clearance between the top of the valve stem and the underside of the rocker arm. I looked on the web and found the instructions on how to complete. Suffice to say you rotate the engine until either the inlet or exhaust is open, this means that the opposite valve is closed, if the inlet is open the exhaust is closed on the same piston. It is also easy to tell which is which by looking at the exhaust manifold. There are differing instructions as to how far the valve should be open some said fully others 3/4. I went for fully open so that the opposite valve was fully closed. You then run a feeler gauge between the valve stem top and the underside of the rocker arm. I have a 535 BHP AS and the clearance is 0.020". The feeler guage should just pinch. If not adjust. There is plenty on the Web about chevy engines. You will need to lift one wheel and then place the car in 5th (or 6th) and manually rotate the wheel to turn the engine over. You will need an imperial spanner set and allen key. The nut (outer) sets the clearance distance and the allen key centre locks it off.
I paid for this to be done first time round. I would not do it again. I was not happy with the results by the garage.
S
I am changing the oil every 1000 miles or unless it looks black before then. I also complete the Valve lash at the same time.
You will know the valve lash needs to be done as you can hear the tappety noise as the revs increase. Once done there is a noticable difference to the quietness of the engine.
The valve lash is not hard to do at all. It is the clearance between the top of the valve stem and the underside of the rocker arm. I looked on the web and found the instructions on how to complete. Suffice to say you rotate the engine until either the inlet or exhaust is open, this means that the opposite valve is closed, if the inlet is open the exhaust is closed on the same piston. It is also easy to tell which is which by looking at the exhaust manifold. There are differing instructions as to how far the valve should be open some said fully others 3/4. I went for fully open so that the opposite valve was fully closed. You then run a feeler gauge between the valve stem top and the underside of the rocker arm. I have a 535 BHP AS and the clearance is 0.020". The feeler guage should just pinch. If not adjust. There is plenty on the Web about chevy engines. You will need to lift one wheel and then place the car in 5th (or 6th) and manually rotate the wheel to turn the engine over. You will need an imperial spanner set and allen key. The nut (outer) sets the clearance distance and the allen key centre locks it off.
I paid for this to be done first time round. I would not do it again. I was not happy with the results by the garage.
S
Edited by scuff on Wednesday 28th March 13:23
I have just done my tappets for the second time, all needed adjustment and it does make a noticable difference to the engine noise (now a little more quiet than before). I remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over with a spanner on the front pulley bolt. Use the firing order and watch the valves open and close then start adjusting. I do find it a bit tricky with the spanner/allen key, as you lock them off they can move a little so you have to back it off and do it again! Allow a couple of hours.
One other point, my engine is AS supplied and the instructions suggested not only an oil change (can't remember the mileage, <= 500 I think) but to also re-torque the head bolts. This was tricky too as the bolts under the rocker covers required me to take off the rocker arms then reset them. But it was worth doing as most of the bolts did need tightning up.
One other point, my engine is AS supplied and the instructions suggested not only an oil change (can't remember the mileage, <= 500 I think) but to also re-torque the head bolts. This was tricky too as the bolts under the rocker covers required me to take off the rocker arms then reset them. But it was worth doing as most of the bolts did need tightning up.
). Interesting observation about doing the oil change after 500 miles. Maybe I'll do one now just to be safe.tuxman said:
don,t you need to take the headers off too ???
Oh yer I forgot that one. Now I remember, telling the other half that I was going into the garage for a couple of hours and it all ended up taking couple of long evenings. And she thought once the SVA was done things would get back to normal
Just a thought: As the one fellow said, do it before the track day. This is a great chance to take a good look at all the bits and pieces before they fall off half way through a 100mph corner. I fly helicopters for a living. I know about things falling off and the need for pre-flights. Another area that gets over looked is the brakes. Due to the very high temps seen on track the fluid has a chance to pick up water on the last cool down and then over the winter. Changing the fluid might be a hassel and a bit exspensive but let water get in on those AP parts and see what they cost. Lee
Hi Simon,
I have had to block the breather off. The accusump seriously over-fills the sump, way beyond the top marker on the dip stick. I need to find another solution, seeing as I have made the decision not to switch the accusump off. I was thinking of an oil separator. However I am then left with the problem of getting the oil back into the sump that is under pressure.
S
I have had to block the breather off. The accusump seriously over-fills the sump, way beyond the top marker on the dip stick. I need to find another solution, seeing as I have made the decision not to switch the accusump off. I was thinking of an oil separator. However I am then left with the problem of getting the oil back into the sump that is under pressure.
S
ultimad said:
I have done 500 miles from new. When do you think I should do my first oil change ? Also, I noticed Amerspeed mention adjusting the valve lash after 1000 (or less) in their docco. I have never done this procedure before. How would I know if it needs adjusting and how do I do it ? Or should I leave it to a mechanic ?
You want to speak to luckyp about this one, he is an expert (NOW).
pb3 said:
So, just about to put it back on the road and have a track day on the 15th of April. Should I change the oil now or leave it till after the track day? Please don't suggest before AND after, I hate this job!
what bit do you hate? if its the draining bit - get yourself one of these - they are fantastic - vacuums the oil out of the dipstick in 10mins.
GTWayne said:
ultimad said:
I have done 500 miles from new. When do you think I should do my first oil change ? Also, I noticed Amerspeed mention adjusting the valve lash after 1000 (or less) in their docco. I have never done this procedure before. How would I know if it needs adjusting and how do I do it ? Or should I leave it to a mechanic ?
You want to speak to luckyp about this one, he is an expert (NOW).
No he isn't!!
But Gail says that black, or just dark oil, in early miles on a engine's bedding in, is perfectly normal.
I'd say do it. 500 first, then 1000, and then just play it by ear. Extra caution with track use and prolonged high revin'.......
Valve lash? No idea!!
Pete
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