Drilling CV Joint Bolts

[USCANAM]

An update on the CV joint bolts.
The material used in the supplied CV bolts by the factory seemed to be of the same hardness as the new and longer ones I bought (file test).
The longer bolts, (almost 1/4"), screwed in all the way by hand, and didn't appear to be hitting anything.
The bolts drilled very easy in the milling machine. A drill press can be used, just clamp your vise to the table once you've established a jig position.
http://home.attbi.com/~rosenracing5/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-736308.html
I used a #58 drill (about .041") and was able to use the same drill for all 12 holes. Drill speed ws 440rpm, and just enough pressure to almost bend the drill bit.
http://home.attbi.com/~rosenracing5/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-736309.html
http://home.attbi.com/~rosenracing5/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-736311.html
When wire is installed, where possible, it should be pulling the bolt tight, not always possible in this application.
[url]
http://home.attbi.com/~rosenracing5/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-736312.html
Hope this will be of some help
Regards
Jack

>>> Edited by USCANAM on Saturday 14th June 02:11

[james]

Nice neat job there Jack. I've always used a jig for drilling bolts like that (available from places like Demon Tweeks in the UK). It makes it easier to get the holes in the right places, and speeds up the job somewhat. Especially useful if you're drilling a lot of them.

James

[USCANAM]

james said: Nice neat job there Jack. I've always used a jig for drilling bolts like that (available from places like Demon Tweeks in the UK). It makes it easier to get the holes in the right places, and speeds up the job somewhat. Especially useful if you're drilling a lot of them.

James

Thanks James.
Never even thought about the jig. (don't have one, but I could have borrowed one). Wonder is there's one for metric and SAE.
Jack

[james]

I guess it's a bit late now, as you've done the job

[ultimasimon]

Your car is looking good Jack. I like the mods you have done on the build - particulalry the inspection cover above the pedals - very intuitive. I may cut a smaller one myself as I still have a lot of electrical goodies to fit and space is a very small comodity on an Ultima. I can imagine how you feel when your almost at the end of the build as all my work should finish in the next two weeks.

This week I have to fit an MSD auto ignition retarder, an RPM activated switch, a N20 progressive controller, Snooper laser jammer and 2(!) alarm systems. Then all I have left to do is a bit of new fuel and oil pipe plumbing, and put in the new engine and box and it's done! A very exciting time is ahead

[meerkat]

Guys, FYI, pre-drilled socket capscrews (allen bolts)are available in many sizes....worth investigating....may save someone a job..

[davefiddes]

Does anyone know of a good UK supplier of specialist high quality fasteners like pre-drilled high tensile capheads? I tend to get most of my run of the mill nuts and bolts (mostly metric) from RS Components because its easy..it would be great if there was somewhere similar for the funky stuff.

[USCANAM]

ultimasimon said:

Your car is looking good Jack. I like the mods you have done on the build - particulalry the inspection cover above the pedals - very intuitive. I may cut a smaller one myself as I still have a lot of electrical goodies to fit and space is a very small comodity on an Ultima. I can imagine how you feel when your almost at the end of the build as all my work should finish in the next two weeks. This week I have to fit an MSD auto ignition retarder, an RPM activated switch, a N20 progressive controller, Snooper laser jammer and 2(!) alarm systems. Then all I have left to do is a bit of new fuel and oil pipe plumbing, and put in the new engine and box and it's done! A very exciting time is ahead

Simon
Thanks for the kind words.
I'd have to say, along with the dead pedal, the inspection panel was the best thing I did. On a RHD car, there might be space for your clutch foot, but on a LHD car, I don't know what you do with that foot when it's not being used without something to rest it against.
To really help in any repairs, mods, or adjustments, I'd almost suggest an inspection panel on each side, however, having one over the pedals, is far better than none at all.
In the case of a CanAm, with 2 windscreens, it makes changing them much easier. You have access to the front of the heater, winshield wiper motor, and connections. I've already re-located the washer bottle, just by reaching in and not having to have someone lie under the panel and assist.
Have had many inquiries about producing a kit. Will consider it when I return from a trip in a few weeks.
Regards
Jack

>> Edited by USCANAM on Wednesday 18th June 20:52

[gt_bwoy]

Why not ask Ted to include these mods in future models? I'm sure he's open to any suggestions for improving his product.

>> Edited by gt_bwoy on Thursday 19th June 07:50

[mkoch1]

Just though I would let everyone know that eastwood sells a bolt jig for 16 dollars. www.eastwoodco.com It's not really meant for bolts but it worked great on my brake caliper bolts.


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[canam-phil]

Just an observation..

At the Goodwood Festival of Speed last week, I spent some (OK lots) of time in the pits looking at the cars.

I have to say that I did not see any car fitted with wire locked bolts on the driveshafts. (Sample size 10) This was on cars on reasonably recent design and older ones with lots of power ie the Le Mans and Canam cars. Talking to a couple of engineer fettling these motors, they had not had a problem if they torqued the bolts correctly. Their words and their experience. Thats not to say there werent others there that had bolts locked with wire - just didnt see any.