Brake Pedal Setup
Brake Pedal Setup
Author
Discussion

Builder

Original Poster:

1,225 posts

271 months

Saturday 23rd February 2008
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Ran a search for this, but couldn't find anything. Isn't there a factory default starting setup for the brake bias? Seems I recall hearing/seeing that somewhere. Anyone got the dims?

Builder

Original Poster:

1,225 posts

271 months

Sunday 24th February 2008
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Anybody have an idea?

Steve_D

13,802 posts

287 months

Sunday 24th February 2008
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It's all in the build manual.
Manual shows where the pedal pivot point should be.

With all wheels off the ground you get someone to press the pedal and go round and see if you can turn them. Can't remember exactly what the words say but is something like arriving at a point where you just can't turn the fronts and the backs are just binding.

Steve

Builder

Original Poster:

1,225 posts

271 months

Sunday 24th February 2008
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Thanks, Steve. I will look for it again. I recall the factory said something about the number of MM on the threads. I will call them tomorrow AM, get the settings and post findings.

San Diego GTR

469 posts

236 months

Sunday 24th February 2008
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Scott,
I'm looking forward to finding out what you learn. While you're on the phone, ask about the clutch setting too. It is a pain to get under the dash after the center section is installed.
Paul

Builder

Original Poster:

1,225 posts

271 months

Monday 25th February 2008
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You got it, Paul.

Builder

Original Poster:

1,225 posts

271 months

Monday 25th February 2008
quotequote all
The tips of the clutch and brake pedals should be evenly set to approximately 7" from the bulkhead. The throttle should be 3/8" forward of that. This is based on factory hole locations; throttle pedal in the front, brake in the rear, and clutch in the middle.

No other measurements were given for the clutch, but the brake should show 21-22mm from rod to clevis on the left side (LHD?). There should be 1/16" on each side for side-to-side movement, which can/should be optimized per the individual setup.

The stop for the throttle on the pedal should not be used due to the potential for FOD to get under the stop on the floor. Rather, a bolt should be threaded into the floor providing a raised surface stop for the pedal.

Davrianman

487 posts

293 months

Monday 25th February 2008
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I never had any locking nuts for the bias bar... Is this correct? I would had thought I needed them for an SVA....?

Builder

Original Poster:

1,225 posts

271 months

Tuesday 26th February 2008
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Davrianman said:
I never had any locking nuts for the bias bar... Is this correct? I would had thought I needed them for an SVA....?
None in my build manual or on my setup.

San Diego GTR

469 posts

236 months

Tuesday 26th February 2008
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Builder said:
The tips of the clutch and brake pedals should be evenly set to approximately 7" from the bulkhead.

No other measurements were given for the clutch, but the brake should show 21-22mm from rod to clevis on the left side (LHD?).
Scott,
What do you mean by the "tips" of the clutch? Is that the pedal surface (which is adjustable) or the back of the black pedal bar?

Re: the brake bar. Are you saying that there should be 21-22mm of rod to the left side of the clevis?

Sorry to be so dense.

Paul

Builder

Original Poster:

1,225 posts

271 months

Tuesday 26th February 2008
quotequote all
San Diego GTR said:
Scott,
What do you mean by the "tips" of the clutch? Is that the pedal surface (which is adjustable) or the back of the black pedal bar?

Re: the brake bar. Are you saying that there should be 21-22mm of rod to the left side of the clevis?Paul
That's my understanding of the reference...the top edge of the foot area on the pedal and 21mm from rod-end to clevis on the left.

I will be speaking with the factory in the morning again regarding other itmes and will try to get a more specific description.

Graham-P

1,548 posts

275 months

Tuesday 26th February 2008
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Davrianman said:
I never had any locking nuts for the bias bar... Is this correct? I would had thought I needed them for an SVA....?
At the very least you need locking nuts for SVA, I think it does depend on where you go though, the guy who inspected mine wanted them drilled and pinned, he did say that some stations want them welded!! Also the setting of the bias was way out from the factory setting, each time the tester took a reading and he ran the numbers.......the computer said NO.....in the end I had to wind the bar over so that I had around 80% braking on the front. Got home and reset to the factory setting, still not sure if it's correct.

Builder

Original Poster:

1,225 posts

271 months

Tuesday 26th February 2008
quotequote all
Builder said:
San Diego GTR said:
Scott,
What do you mean by the "tips" of the clutch? Is that the pedal surface (which is adjustable) or the back of the black pedal bar?

Re: the brake bar. Are you saying that there should be 21-22mm of rod to the left side of the clevis?Paul
That's my understanding of the reference...the top edge of the foot area on the pedal and 21mm from rod-end to clevis on the left.

I will be speaking with the factory in the morning again regarding other itmes and will try to get a more specific description.
Confirmed. The top-rear edge of the foot pedal area should be 7" from the ali bulkhead using the rear-most hole in the base with the pedal screwed all the way back against the locking nut at the top. Bias bar: 21-22mm on the left of the clevis. Maybe it's different for RHD?

San Diego GTR

469 posts

236 months

Friday 29th February 2008
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Thanks Scott!