Anuver quessy oh learned ones!
Discussion
Am at the point of installing the tanks, and in addition I have made up a kind-of apron fume wall (ally) for the rear of the sidepods so it seals tightly between the frame and the side-pod body. After fitting these I librally spread/ filled with sealer the gaps where the heater pipes, coolant pipes and harness passed through into the engine bay, taking care to add that little mod with electrical trunking for those future cables.
In my enthusiam I successfully managed to trap a couple of cable ends (I believe one is for the interior light, and another bullet connecter adjacent? Plus two earthing cables with eyes at the end, between the new fume wall and the sidepod rear...and I wondered:
1.The two earthing points...where is the best place to bolt them (presumable with access if they get corroded)? In hade thought about bolting them to the bottom chassis-rail under the pod, but inside the body moulding? Is that what others have done?
2. The bullet connector and interior-light connector wires don't seem long enough to pass up between the fume wall and the sidepod, but I don't know where thsy go anyway. Any ideas?
and 3. finally abouth the tanks.
Whats the best way to fix them (the lips I mean). drilling holes for rivets is a pain as the chassis rails get in the way and don't know how many rivits should be put in for safety, or should I use a rivnut on each tab instead?
Hope you guys don't mind me asking but I don't want to make a mistake and silkitane the body on and then cry cos I got it wrong!

Ta
Keith
In my enthusiam I successfully managed to trap a couple of cable ends (I believe one is for the interior light, and another bullet connecter adjacent? Plus two earthing cables with eyes at the end, between the new fume wall and the sidepod rear...and I wondered:
1.The two earthing points...where is the best place to bolt them (presumable with access if they get corroded)? In hade thought about bolting them to the bottom chassis-rail under the pod, but inside the body moulding? Is that what others have done?
2. The bullet connector and interior-light connector wires don't seem long enough to pass up between the fume wall and the sidepod, but I don't know where thsy go anyway. Any ideas?
and 3. finally abouth the tanks.
Whats the best way to fix them (the lips I mean). drilling holes for rivets is a pain as the chassis rails get in the way and don't know how many rivits should be put in for safety, or should I use a rivnut on each tab instead?
Hope you guys don't mind me asking but I don't want to make a mistake and silkitane the body on and then cry cos I got it wrong!

Ta
Keith
V8 Vum said:
and 3. finally abouth the tanks.
Whats the best way to fix them (the lips I mean). drilling holes for rivets is a pain as the chassis rails get in the way and don't know how many rivits should be put in for safety, or should I use a rivnut on each tab instead?
Keith
Keith. This is what I did.Whats the best way to fix them (the lips I mean). drilling holes for rivets is a pain as the chassis rails get in the way and don't know how many rivits should be put in for safety, or should I use a rivnut on each tab instead?
Keith


1 & 2. This is a tough one. Are you sure you have the loom mounted properly? It sound like you may have it too far forward. In the build manual, there's a link under the Loom section (2) that says, "Click here for RHD (or LHD) Wiring Loom Layout". It shows a general diagram with circuit numbers. Number 57, 86, and the entire branch that crosses the rear bulkhead for the engine bay all come off the main loom at the rear exit of the left pod. Right now, the wires you mention are sticking out into the engine bay on mine. I am going to attach the earth straps to inside face of the chassis rail, just below the tank tab (being sure to remove the paint to bare metal under the eye).
3. I used the factory setup -- rivets. In addition, I had a vertical tab welded to the top-inside edge of the tank as a stop against the top rail. It's not riveted to the rail. It just keeps it from moving (banging) against the chassis. Rubber pad between.
3. I used the factory setup -- rivets. In addition, I had a vertical tab welded to the top-inside edge of the tank as a stop against the top rail. It's not riveted to the rail. It just keeps it from moving (banging) against the chassis. Rubber pad between.
Thanks Builder,
Looks like I have some adjusting to do then!
The 'branch' mentioned is just at the point where the loom laps the rear upright of the firewall, and sods law, I silkothaned it on the wrong side of my fumewall!
So out with the stanley knife then and (carefully) free up some rivets to pull it further through then!
BUM!
S'pose the interior light cable feeds from the back of the firewall then?
cheers
Keith
Looks like I have some adjusting to do then!

The 'branch' mentioned is just at the point where the loom laps the rear upright of the firewall, and sods law, I silkothaned it on the wrong side of my fumewall!
So out with the stanley knife then and (carefully) free up some rivets to pull it further through then!
BUM!
S'pose the interior light cable feeds from the back of the firewall then?
cheers
Keith
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