Dry sump mods....
Discussion
Would you mind if I extended the thread a little?
I have a 9 litre tank for my LS7 and i was wondering how full it should be? I need to get my tank remade as I specified too small a breather (10mm) and it pressurised.
On the basis of the oil I blew out I would have thought fill to 6.5 litres. I was also thinking I would go for a 25mm breather pipe to a catch tank, with a decent sized K&N on it.
I have a 9 litre tank for my LS7 and i was wondering how full it should be? I need to get my tank remade as I specified too small a breather (10mm) and it pressurised.
On the basis of the oil I blew out I would have thought fill to 6.5 litres. I was also thinking I would go for a 25mm breather pipe to a catch tank, with a decent sized K&N on it.
guys the book on Dry sump is as follows. Make the can as verticle as you have space. At a minimum have at least 1/2 as much air space as oil. 8 quarts of oil should have at least 4 quarts of air space more air space is better. Hope that helps I am not the guru but I have a friend who could be considered one. At the moment we are building a tank for my L/S powered GTR. The tank will sit in the forward right side of the engine bay the water pipe will go through the tank and the water res will be part of the tank. it will hold 10 quarts of oil and about 9 quarts of air. The tank will be 24 inchs tall. Yes, if I could I would have put it on the left side to offset some of the drivers weight (U.S.car).
Bitzleftover said:
Hi,have just fitted factory dry sump what do you need to know?
Ooh, ta. Just about to do the same, but wondering how much of a gap you leave 'tween the tank and the nearest (diagonal?) chassis member? If you have any pics, that would be stonking. Is yours a first build or an upgrade - if a upgrade, dis any of the std wet sump accessories (swirl pot, expansion tank, MSD, etc.) need moving? I know you have to wire for the alternator repositioning to RHS.
Ta,
Pete
Hi, sorry having serious probs with the broadband at the moment so photos may be a non starter so I will try to explain. The can fixes on the lower rearmost chassis rail and the next chassis rail toward the front of the car with the sight tube toward the back . The edge of the lugs on mine are 55mm in from the outside edge of the N/S rail . This is with a G50/03 box and I did have to make slight relief in the side of the can to clear the gearbox breather banjo bolt. Before I fitted the engine I had the MSD at the recommended height but had to drop it about 70mm to clear the pump drive this is with a peterson pump other than that there were no probs . This was a new build so you will have some issue with getting shot of the accusump etc. Will try to post some photos later.
Dan
Dan
Lucky, here's another pic. The main tank's on the left but an overflow tank is on the right. It's got a breather vent with a small filter on top. Done for track use. Main tank should be 1/3rd to half full. The remaining space allows aeriated oil to settle back to liquid.
Edited by Boosted LS1 on Wednesday 19th March 19:27
LuckyP said:
Can't you stick your head out the window and let me know what you see?
I'm just going with the flow now, don't know what monster he's building in there, but I just hope it slots right in and gives me a good year of trackdays!!
Think I'm gonna beat you back onto the road, P. Mine's in and running, just a few more hours of running in before the R/R session on 11th next month, are you getting any testing done once you get your monster back?I'm just going with the flow now, don't know what monster he's building in there, but I just hope it slots right in and gives me a good year of trackdays!!
Thevet said:
LuckyP said:
Can't you stick your head out the window and let me know what you see?
I'm just going with the flow now, don't know what monster he's building in there, but I just hope it slots right in and gives me a good year of trackdays!!
Think I'm gonna beat you back onto the road, P. Mine's in and running, just a few more hours of running in before the R/R session on 11th next month, are you getting any testing done once you get your monster back?I'm just going with the flow now, don't know what monster he's building in there, but I just hope it slots right in and gives me a good year of trackdays!!
[quote=LuckyPJust checking that the new instuments A/F meter, oil temp guage and knock sensor work OK and then a session with charles to get the thing set up OK. Then it's back on track!!
[/quote]
Maybe you're further ahead than I thought, sounding good though, and no doubt looking good with the dymags, not that I'm jealous.
[/quote]
Maybe you're further ahead than I thought, sounding good though, and no doubt looking good with the dymags, not that I'm jealous.
Thevet said:
LuckyP said:
Just checking that the new instuments A/F meter, oil temp guage and knock sensor work OK and then a session with charles to get the thing set up OK. Then it's back on track!!
Maybe you're further ahead than I thought, sounding good though, and no doubt looking good with the dymags, not that I'm jealous.Brunters sounds good, but with the std box and only 7000 rpm, it ain't gonna be good!!
LuckyP said:
I mean that I will be checking the instruments once I'm back on the road. So, no...not that far on really.
Brunters sounds good, but with the std box and only 7000 rpm, it ain't gonna be good!!
Well if you aren't that far on, get moving, the next Vmax can't be far away, and it would be so good to get a few Ultimas together there. Anyway if you've only got the standard box, it'll give me a chance to overhaul you at the end of the 2 miles, as it'll take that long to catch up with my silly long 5th gear. Brunters sounds good, but with the std box and only 7000 rpm, it ain't gonna be good!!
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