Air Con time. . . . again. . . . .
Discussion
Are there any CanAm owners out there with air con?
What is the performance like, does it pump out cold air all the time?
The reason for asking is that I had mine filled last week and initially it pumps out cold air then after around 30mins it starts to get warm, so it's getting compromised with warm water going through the heater matrix. I have 'two' valves on the hoses to and from the heater matrix but obviously still not good enough. I'm now thinking of isolating the heater altogether and just running the heater hoses in a loop from the intake manifold to the water pump in the hope of curing this persistent problem, but if it's just me then I'm doing something wrong. I'm wary of doing this as I will loose any extra cooling if I have a problem with the engine temps.
And before all the G Y remarks start, I know it's a CanAm and I know the air con is not going to be great as it will try to cool the world but it's nice to have cooling air on your face, hands goolies etc. . . . . . . . .
What is the performance like, does it pump out cold air all the time?
The reason for asking is that I had mine filled last week and initially it pumps out cold air then after around 30mins it starts to get warm, so it's getting compromised with warm water going through the heater matrix. I have 'two' valves on the hoses to and from the heater matrix but obviously still not good enough. I'm now thinking of isolating the heater altogether and just running the heater hoses in a loop from the intake manifold to the water pump in the hope of curing this persistent problem, but if it's just me then I'm doing something wrong. I'm wary of doing this as I will loose any extra cooling if I have a problem with the engine temps.
And before all the G Y remarks start, I know it's a CanAm and I know the air con is not going to be great as it will try to cool the world but it's nice to have cooling air on your face, hands goolies etc. . . . . . . . .
I doubt it will make a difference. If water is getting through the valve then removing the lagging won't change things.
Try clamping the return hose to stop any flow then see if heat soak alone is what is affecting the AC.
If it still does it then removing the lagging may help.
If clamping it cures the problem then you need to find out why your valves are not stopping the water flow.
Steve
Try clamping the return hose to stop any flow then see if heat soak alone is what is affecting the AC.
If it still does it then removing the lagging may help.
If clamping it cures the problem then you need to find out why your valves are not stopping the water flow.
Steve
I've been out in mine all afternoon (first drive 
). About 2-3 hours motorway and A roads stopping only for petrol, then a few shorter trips through slowish traffic. The air-con has blown cool air all the way. My heater pipes aren't lagged and I have the standard factory heater and aircon fittings. At the engine end both heater pipes are hot, uncomfortable but not too hot to touch. At the front they are quite warm, but noticeably cooler. Not sure if that helps any.
). About 2-3 hours motorway and A roads stopping only for petrol, then a few shorter trips through slowish traffic. The air-con has blown cool air all the way. My heater pipes aren't lagged and I have the standard factory heater and aircon fittings. At the engine end both heater pipes are hot, uncomfortable but not too hot to touch. At the front they are quite warm, but noticeably cooler. Not sure if that helps any.You will get heat soak to the heater when only one of the heater lines has a cock in it. Even though the water is not pumping through the heater, the water will eventually heat up (after all its all the same water that is in the engine)
The factory setup has a cock on the supply side of the heater.
To cut down on heat soak you can add another cock on the return side and turn it off in summer - this may still get a little heat soak on a long journey.
If you want to totally eliminate the heat soak, disconnect the heater hoses altogether during summer.
For GTR guys you should also consider lining the inside of your doors, roof and floor with some insulation. Dynamat or something on the floor (lots of heat is stored in the road and radiated through the metal floor) and the stuff used in windscreen shields will work for elsewhere. Do under your dash also.
Without any insulation in the GTR the AC will never be at its most efficient.
For Canam guys - you need to make sure the hairdryer is always off when you drive
The factory setup has a cock on the supply side of the heater.
To cut down on heat soak you can add another cock on the return side and turn it off in summer - this may still get a little heat soak on a long journey.
If you want to totally eliminate the heat soak, disconnect the heater hoses altogether during summer.
For GTR guys you should also consider lining the inside of your doors, roof and floor with some insulation. Dynamat or something on the floor (lots of heat is stored in the road and radiated through the metal floor) and the stuff used in windscreen shields will work for elsewhere. Do under your dash also.
Without any insulation in the GTR the AC will never be at its most efficient.
For Canam guys - you need to make sure the hairdryer is always off when you drive
The Capillary tube of the Expansion Valve (The Coil and Sticky Tape) if that's on the wrong pipe, then It will be sensing the Cold Liquid going in and Not the Hot Vapour going out so will close down and let less Liquid in, therefore less Cooling.
So will work at first then after a while will seem as if you turned it off. It thinks that you don't have the fan on and is Freezing up the Coils, so shuts down the cooling to stop Ice Forming on the Coils.....
So Capillary Tube to be put on the Outgoing pipes please.....
So will work at first then after a while will seem as if you turned it off. It thinks that you don't have the fan on and is Freezing up the Coils, so shuts down the cooling to stop Ice Forming on the Coils.....
So Capillary Tube to be put on the Outgoing pipes please.....
GTRCLIVE said:
The Capillary tube of the Expansion Valve (The Coil and Sticky Tape) if that's on the wrong pipe, then It will be sensing the Cold Liquid going in and Not the Hot Vapour going out so will close down and let less Liquid in, therefore less Cooling.
So will work at first then after a while will seem as if you turned it off. It thinks that you don't have the fan on and is Freezing up the Coils, so shuts down the cooling to stop Ice Forming on the Coils.....
So Capillary Tube to be put on the Outgoing pipes please.....
I'm a tad confused here Clive. Surely a "Cold Liquid" going in will not give a "Hot Vapour" after expansion. The warm compressed aircon fluid gives a cold vapour after expansion. The outgoing pipe is the cold one, so I assume the coil shuts down the expansion valve when this pipe gets too cold. Is this correct?So will work at first then after a while will seem as if you turned it off. It thinks that you don't have the fan on and is Freezing up the Coils, so shuts down the cooling to stop Ice Forming on the Coils.....
So Capillary Tube to be put on the Outgoing pipes please.....
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