preperation of Gel-coat to paint
Discussion
Gel coat has to be sanded back for the paint to 'Key' and then an etch primer is used followed by filler primer then the top coats.
Never heard of not using a gel coat. I suspect it would not be a hard enough surface meaning that in any knock on the painted surface the GF below would give resulting in paint cracks or dents.
Steve
Never heard of not using a gel coat. I suspect it would not be a hard enough surface meaning that in any knock on the painted surface the GF below would give resulting in paint cracks or dents.
Steve
When I had my GTR painted, the body was put in an oven for a few hours just to make sure there were no trapped air pockets in the laminate which would expand in the heat of the sun and crack the gel coat. Luckily none were found so no remedial action was necessary. It was then prepared and painted as described by Steve.
Mostly as above but pasted below a reply from a couple of months back, its still valid with current refinishing methods.
Remember the less paint you can apply the better, so the method below is top really.
Would agree on a pre-paint low bake if the body is a newish moulding (30deg c for 2 hrs or so).
Then;
On the refinishing side though, so long as you dont have alot of 'repaired' areas on the body you can most likely do a lot of the time consuming prep yourself. If the body mould is several months old already and has a sound gelcoat finish then most of the initial prep will just involve a good fine scotchbrite (normally grey coloured) used in conjunction with a strong soapy water mix. This helps to remove any release agent remaining on the body and also provides a key for the adhesion coat (a type of GRP/plastics primer).Just make sure you use a clean bucket/water and dont drop the scotchbrite on the floor then reuse it, you will put deep scratches in the prepared surface with the tiny particles of dirt off the floor!!
Once this is done find yourself a small local but modern bodyshop. Ideally someone that has a relatively new oven and uses water-based materials. This will help to contribute towards a longer lasting shrink free finish that should last for years.
Insist on a longer low bake cycle of no-more than 30'C.
The reasons I suggest this whole process are simple really, if you use the cheaper solvent based primers/topcoats and lacquers you will get a brill finish initially but because you cannot bake the GRP to the same level as a steel body, a certain amount of solvent remains trapped in the various coats. Over a period this will cause softening and further shrinkage of the original GRP gelcoat, the end result being an uneven matting type finish which will be very disatisfactory particularly on dark colours.
Personally I would do as much prep myself as possible and spend the savings on better quality materials to do the job. Maybe talk to the shop of your choice first.
There are several good paint manufacturers, Glasurit are one of the best and have a very good plastics wet-on-wet system. (No flatting between first etch primer and final colour/lacquer coats). You might find their nearest bodyshop to you is listed on their UK website.
Very finally if I do decide to paint mine I will also use plasticiser additive in the paint to reduce brittleness and chipping. You may recall the colour coded foam spoilers ford used? its the same principle.
Good luck.
Remember the less paint you can apply the better, so the method below is top really.
Would agree on a pre-paint low bake if the body is a newish moulding (30deg c for 2 hrs or so).
Then;
On the refinishing side though, so long as you dont have alot of 'repaired' areas on the body you can most likely do a lot of the time consuming prep yourself. If the body mould is several months old already and has a sound gelcoat finish then most of the initial prep will just involve a good fine scotchbrite (normally grey coloured) used in conjunction with a strong soapy water mix. This helps to remove any release agent remaining on the body and also provides a key for the adhesion coat (a type of GRP/plastics primer).Just make sure you use a clean bucket/water and dont drop the scotchbrite on the floor then reuse it, you will put deep scratches in the prepared surface with the tiny particles of dirt off the floor!!
Once this is done find yourself a small local but modern bodyshop. Ideally someone that has a relatively new oven and uses water-based materials. This will help to contribute towards a longer lasting shrink free finish that should last for years.
Insist on a longer low bake cycle of no-more than 30'C.
The reasons I suggest this whole process are simple really, if you use the cheaper solvent based primers/topcoats and lacquers you will get a brill finish initially but because you cannot bake the GRP to the same level as a steel body, a certain amount of solvent remains trapped in the various coats. Over a period this will cause softening and further shrinkage of the original GRP gelcoat, the end result being an uneven matting type finish which will be very disatisfactory particularly on dark colours.
Personally I would do as much prep myself as possible and spend the savings on better quality materials to do the job. Maybe talk to the shop of your choice first.
There are several good paint manufacturers, Glasurit are one of the best and have a very good plastics wet-on-wet system. (No flatting between first etch primer and final colour/lacquer coats). You might find their nearest bodyshop to you is listed on their UK website.
Very finally if I do decide to paint mine I will also use plasticiser additive in the paint to reduce brittleness and chipping. You may recall the colour coded foam spoilers ford used? its the same principle.
Good luck.
Craig,
Its not that straightforward to give you a figure but as a paint/polish only job I would think your estimates should be around the 30-40 hours at whatever the local rate is. In the northwest, 3 years ago when I left the motor industry, bodyshops were averaging around the £25 per hour mark however inside the M25 this was nearer 40 per hour. The rates wont be too far adrift as they rise slowly, inline with motor insurers premiums and recommended repairer pay-rates. Also again as its a paint-only job, I would guess at 80-100% of the labour figure on top for paint and materials. So maybe £1600- 2200 plus vat.
The smaller, modern repair shops are generally more suited to what an Ultima deserves, IMHO.
Its not that straightforward to give you a figure but as a paint/polish only job I would think your estimates should be around the 30-40 hours at whatever the local rate is. In the northwest, 3 years ago when I left the motor industry, bodyshops were averaging around the £25 per hour mark however inside the M25 this was nearer 40 per hour. The rates wont be too far adrift as they rise slowly, inline with motor insurers premiums and recommended repairer pay-rates. Also again as its a paint-only job, I would guess at 80-100% of the labour figure on top for paint and materials. So maybe £1600- 2200 plus vat.
The smaller, modern repair shops are generally more suited to what an Ultima deserves, IMHO.
highflyer said:
Don't want to throw a spanner in the works but, I don't think metalic works well on an Ultima, due to the style and lovely curves. If you think about it, never realy seen a metalic Bugatti, Fezza, most Lambos are a flat colour, ok Porsche.
Just a thought !!
maybe would work on this tho... hehehehe?Just a thought !!
http://www.exoticrockets.com/
actually both really. gathering information on 2 choices of car.
Going to detroit on 1st August from here in UK to view the Aspira.
If its what i want then options will crop up of what to get here or get there
If its not then i will start searching again for either factory ultima or used.
Hope you dont mind me in here as i am sort of forumless at the moment :-(
Going to detroit on 1st August from here in UK to view the Aspira.
If its what i want then options will crop up of what to get here or get there
If its not then i will start searching again for either factory ultima or used.
Hope you dont mind me in here as i am sort of forumless at the moment :-(
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