Header Torque?

[clynos1]

Having looked through all the details I have I cannot find the torque figures for the Headers. I am using alloy heads and factory headers.
Can anyone assist?
Also, on my inverted Getrag 996 box I have a connector on the rear right side is this the reversing light switch?
Many thanks in advance
David

[Steve_D]

I very much doubt you will get a socket and torque wrench anywhere near most of the header bolts. Tighten them as best you can with a spanner. You will need to come back to them several times once the engine has run as you will keep finding them loose as the gaskets bed down.
Can't help on the Getrag.

Steve

[clynos1]

Once again Steve, Many thanks

[k wright]

The best thing that I have found to prevent loss of these fasteners is to use header studs. The amount of thread that the stud offers for engagement is much larger than the bolts that came with your headers and the lack of wear on your alloy threads will be worth the price.

ken

[Graham-P]

clynos1 said:

.......Also, on my inverted Getrag 996 box I have a connector on the rear right side is this the reversing light switch?
Many thanks in advance
David

Yep that's the reversing light switch.

[T-Rev]

Tight... with a spanner! No header gaskets on mine! This is a controversial point, but I chose not to fit gaskets, with such short header bolts (3/8” unc x ¾” thread), the more thread in the heads the better! With gaskets, if a bolt comes loose, it will blow a gasket very easily. But without gaskets, if a bolt comes loose it might blow, but it can be tightened and should seal again. I used to build performance engines (mostly Rover V8’s) for road and track and never used header gaskets on free flow headers, gaskets would cause more trouble than they’re worth! I have however, used RTV high temperature silicone sealant on the flanges and plenty of Loctite thread lock to help keep them bolts in! I never had any more header leaks and they were still tight when I stripped the top end back in May, a year later. Though, having recently had the heads reconditioned, I invested in having aircraft spec thread insert sleeves (not helicals) fitted in my alloy DART PRO 1 Heads which I'm sure will be worthwhile for years to come. Hope this helps.
Trevor.

[eliot]

T-Rev said:

Tight... with a spanner! No header gaskets on mine! This is a controversial point, but I chose not to fit gaskets, with such short header bolts (3/8” unc x ¾” thread), the more thread in the heads the better! With gaskets, if a bolt comes loose, it will blow a gasket very easily. But without gaskets, if a bolt comes loose it might blow, but it can be tightened and should seal again. I used to build performance engines (mostly Rover V8’s) for road and track and never used header gaskets on free flow headers, gaskets would cause more trouble than they’re worth! I have however, used RTV high temperature silicone sealant on the flanges and plenty of Loctite thread lock to help keep them bolts in! I never had any more header leaks and they were still tight when I stripped the top end back in May, a year later. Though, having recently had the heads reconditioned, I invested in having aircraft spec thread insert sleeves (not helicals) fitted in my alloy DART PRO 1 Heads which I'm sure will be worthwhile for years to come. Hope this helps.
Trevor.

Not sure I would want to put locktite onto the threads, I actually copperslip my bolts to prevent the siezing or galling the threads. I use specialist serated washers(forgot the name of them) to stop them coming out. (not on an ultima mind)

ETA:
These things:

http://www.schnorr.de/produktprogramm/schraubensic...

Edited by eliot on Saturday 15th November 09:08

[k wright]

If you are going to use header bolts get longer ones, otherwise you increase the risk of stripping the bolt hole.

[clynos1]

Thanks for the info
David

[ROWDYRENAULT]

Go to ARP, buy the header stud kit, you will get a stud that is set up to be screwed in with an allen wrench. Read the ARP instruction of stud install, the studs are not suppose to be tight, use the ARP lubricant that is supplied with the kit. The nuts are 12 point you torque the nut while holding the stud with the allen. The studs are available in stainless or steel. I have these in my r5 turbo2 they have been there fot a long period of time. NEVER a problem. done, next problem. lee