Car won't start - wiring issue?
Discussion
After the incident i had when the alternator fell off and caused the cable to melt, today i've re-run a new alternator cable.
The old cable is all wrapped up, so i cut either end and left it in situ. I also replaced 2 fuses that i spotted had blown.
Once i connected the battery up, i've checked all the lights etc, and everything works with the exception of the fog lights. I noticed as well, that previously my immoboliser light would be flashing, but nothing now.
Tried to start the car, and i have a solid red light on the immobiliser light, and the there's a clicking from the immobilser box. Nothing starts.
I've checked all the fuses and they all seem fine. the only thing i can't check (Haven't got a spare) is a 12v 30A (marked 1066, 4 prong) fuse/relay thing that i've found.
think it's a case of an auto electrician? or have a cooked the immobiliser if that possible?
Any suggestions or thoughts greatly appreciated.. I was thinking of wiring back in the old cable to see if that worked and i'ts got a feed connected to it?
Thanks
Craig.
The old cable is all wrapped up, so i cut either end and left it in situ. I also replaced 2 fuses that i spotted had blown.
Once i connected the battery up, i've checked all the lights etc, and everything works with the exception of the fog lights. I noticed as well, that previously my immoboliser light would be flashing, but nothing now.
Tried to start the car, and i have a solid red light on the immobiliser light, and the there's a clicking from the immobilser box. Nothing starts.
I've checked all the fuses and they all seem fine. the only thing i can't check (Haven't got a spare) is a 12v 30A (marked 1066, 4 prong) fuse/relay thing that i've found.
think it's a case of an auto electrician? or have a cooked the immobiliser if that possible?
Any suggestions or thoughts greatly appreciated.. I was thinking of wiring back in the old cable to see if that worked and i'ts got a feed connected to it?
Thanks
Craig.
Immobiliser! Oh dear.... In the past I have found these aftermarket immobilisers to be more than a little fragile, the power flash may have cooked it. Check the relay, this is the easiset thing to do first then get rid of the immobiliser. Find another way of immobilising it, preferably not one with lots of fragile electrickery involved! Removable steering wheel + FIA key, steering wheel lock, secret switch etc.. etc..
If the immobiliser hasn't failed now, it will.
Soon.
When you are in a rush.
Somewhere far from home.
It will be raining.
If the immobiliser hasn't failed now, it will.
Soon.
When you are in a rush.
Somewhere far from home.
It will be raining.
will do exactly the same thing, already bought a 500A switch (and a spare key)so will run all electrics including the starter over this switch.
My immobilizer that i bought is actually the normally closed type, so only in case of an alarm the contact opens and you cannot start the car, so if you use these kind if the thing goes whack you will still be able to run the car.
My immobilizer that i bought is actually the normally closed type, so only in case of an alarm the contact opens and you cannot start the car, so if you use these kind if the thing goes whack you will still be able to run the car.
Anyone removing their immobiliser or any other security system should make sure that their insurers are notified etc.
For new builds a single key operated battery cut off switch fulfills the requirements of the current SVA vehicle security regulations.
Haggerty insureers did not require any security system/s for my GTR so all in all I think I have chosen the cheapest and most reliable way forward as while I can do most jobs wiring is my weak point and as it says in the buid manual you must keep the smoke in the wires.
I did delete both my posts but then the current couldn't leave the battery.
Frank
For new builds a single key operated battery cut off switch fulfills the requirements of the current SVA vehicle security regulations.
Haggerty insureers did not require any security system/s for my GTR so all in all I think I have chosen the cheapest and most reliable way forward as while I can do most jobs wiring is my weak point and as it says in the buid manual you must keep the smoke in the wires.
I did delete both my posts but then the current couldn't leave the battery.
Frank
Detailing anti-theft installations on web sites is just one of the insurers stall/get outs in the event of a theft claim. They argue its the same as leaving your key in the car as it compromises the vehicles security.
Usually they have paid-out in these circs.....after lots of the policyholders time and aggro has lapsed.
Just a thought if anyone may need to make a claim in the future.
Usually they have paid-out in these circs.....after lots of the policyholders time and aggro has lapsed.
Just a thought if anyone may need to make a claim in the future.
60mph said:
.....For new builds a single key operated battery cut off switch fulfills the requirements of the current SVA vehicle security regulations....
Both FIA switches and removable steering wheels are no longer accepted as security measures in the new IVA test.It must have something mechanical like a steering lock or a professionally installed immobiliser.
Steve
interesting the immobilizer THOR (looks like being made in romania) that i bought from ebay for 29,90 euro actually does come with a relay to inhibit the ignition. this is activated when the alarm goes on. So sooner or later the alarm will empty the battery but then the car wont start either, and it does not draw any current.
this alarm system also behaves in a way that if you have removed the main battery it will start with an alarm and inhibit relay activated, so even if the thief tries to remove the battery he ends up with the alarm condition after doing this, quite impressing for 29,90 euro incl. 4 door motors and 2 wireless keys
this alarm system also behaves in a way that if you have removed the main battery it will start with an alarm and inhibit relay activated, so even if the thief tries to remove the battery he ends up with the alarm condition after doing this, quite impressing for 29,90 euro incl. 4 door motors and 2 wireless keys
Yes Dave ,the penny didn't drop because I did not fit my switch for insurance reasons as one wasn't required.I thought you were on about purely electrical reasons and the only one I could think of was my set up is not suitable for racing because it is on the earth side,but again it is not designed for this either.Steve's on the ball as well as I didn't realise that the IVA regs were different to SVA with regard to all this and how quickly they are coming in.
Frank
Frank
I understood your idea and reasoning Frank and agree its a great method to include during a build (may have a look at something similar myself)
My point was based on having locked horns professionally with the insurers for about 19 years. What I understood from previous claims situations was the 'public technical explanation' of a security/locking device which contributed to overall security, whether specifically stated in the policy wording or not.
I suppose its bit like having a large self-built pad full of goodies and going onto a DIY forum to explain all about the alarm/safe/door locks etc. From an insurers point of view you have invited the burglars along to the party and still expect them to pick up the tab!
When investment returns deminish, the insurers dont half tighten their purse strings.....
My point was based on having locked horns professionally with the insurers for about 19 years. What I understood from previous claims situations was the 'public technical explanation' of a security/locking device which contributed to overall security, whether specifically stated in the policy wording or not.
I suppose its bit like having a large self-built pad full of goodies and going onto a DIY forum to explain all about the alarm/safe/door locks etc. From an insurers point of view you have invited the burglars along to the party and still expect them to pick up the tab!
When investment returns deminish, the insurers dont half tighten their purse strings.....
Yes
I agree , I had to take early retirement due to being a self employed surveyor as I had no partners to hand my 6 year liability in negligence on to.So I closed shop and paid premiums for the next 6 years so my liability would die while I was relatively young.I' m glad I did as I'm now clear but due to the property downturn surveyors are now in the lending institutions' sites and liability / premiums have rocketed.Being self employed , ones personal assets are exposed without insurance and if you have claims they refuse renewal leaving you alone against the lions.Completely off topic but I guess this interesting topic is now dead.
Thanks again
Frank
I agree , I had to take early retirement due to being a self employed surveyor as I had no partners to hand my 6 year liability in negligence on to.So I closed shop and paid premiums for the next 6 years so my liability would die while I was relatively young.I' m glad I did as I'm now clear but due to the property downturn surveyors are now in the lending institutions' sites and liability / premiums have rocketed.Being self employed , ones personal assets are exposed without insurance and if you have claims they refuse renewal leaving you alone against the lions.Completely off topic but I guess this interesting topic is now dead.
Thanks again
Frank
right, back to the problem...
I managed to trace some of the cables and found a 5a fuse in a "most" awkward hidden position connecting into the loom under a mass of black tape. Thought this was the puppy only to find that it was not blown.
I'm guessing that this connected into the alternator cable? total guess mind you... i could try and connect it into the new cable although it'll be a complete bugger to get to and work on.
I managed to trace some of the cables and found a 5a fuse in a "most" awkward hidden position connecting into the loom under a mass of black tape. Thought this was the puppy only to find that it was not blown.
I'm guessing that this connected into the alternator cable? total guess mind you... i could try and connect it into the new cable although it'll be a complete bugger to get to and work on.
Yay - A freind of mine came over sat and re-ran a wire to the immobiliser and hey presto, the car turned over and started on the second attempt...
so now the car start's, ticks over nicely, the new water pump doesn't leak, the rocker cover gaskets don't leak, and the new exhaust manifold gaskets don't leak either.
So well chuffed.
After a check over, the only thing we've found doesn't work is the rear fog lights - could be a fuse somewhere that i've not found?, or possibly the connections behind the switch - But who needs fog lights! bla..
So fingers crossed i'll be out and about in it this week once i atatch the steering wheel and give it a nice clean.
Craig.
so now the car start's, ticks over nicely, the new water pump doesn't leak, the rocker cover gaskets don't leak, and the new exhaust manifold gaskets don't leak either.
So well chuffed.
After a check over, the only thing we've found doesn't work is the rear fog lights - could be a fuse somewhere that i've not found?, or possibly the connections behind the switch - But who needs fog lights! bla..
So fingers crossed i'll be out and about in it this week once i atatch the steering wheel and give it a nice clean.
Craig.
scooby_doo_do said:
.......So fingers crossed i'll be out and about in it this week once i atatch the steering wheel and give it a nice clean.
Craig.
Glad to hear you go it sorted. . . .I would love to join you, but I've still got mine in bits at the moment, trying to replace my Escort stalks for Fiesta ones with horn push on the end plus my mufflers are with Hayward & Scott for cutting open and repacking..... it doesn't look like I'll be on the road before Easter at this rate!!! If you fancy a blast to Maldon to keep my spirits up feel free. . . . Craig.
Graham
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