Discussion
I'm sure it must have been covered previously, but the search engine didn't bring up anything useful. So what initial/basic set up works for those guys that have tracked their Ultima?
I have rose jointed suspension, Intrax shocks with factory recommended track springs and will be running Toyo R888 tires. I'm adding the front splitter too and I'd like to know typical settings for;
Camber & Toe (front & rear)
Ride height & Shock settings (# clicks)
Plus anything else useful to know.
Thanks,
Julian
I have rose jointed suspension, Intrax shocks with factory recommended track springs and will be running Toyo R888 tires. I'm adding the front splitter too and I'd like to know typical settings for;
Camber & Toe (front & rear)
Ride height & Shock settings (# clicks)
Plus anything else useful to know.
Thanks,
Julian
Edited by JoulesCanAm on Thursday 9th April 06:22
Hey Paul,
I'm informed today it is back together and running, just some fine tuning left to do on the dyno. On April 18th the local SCCA have a PDX day so a good opportunity to get it back on the track, but this time with a track setup.
Other events have taken over on my '74 Pantera restoration (a master bath remodel to be precise) so it looks like I'll be running the Ultima against the Pantera's at our POCA June event as well. You fancy the drive up from SoCal for 2 days at Reno-Fernley Raceway? Hopefully there will be a caravan of Pantera's coming up from your area too.
Julian
I'm informed today it is back together and running, just some fine tuning left to do on the dyno. On April 18th the local SCCA have a PDX day so a good opportunity to get it back on the track, but this time with a track setup.
Other events have taken over on my '74 Pantera restoration (a master bath remodel to be precise) so it looks like I'll be running the Ultima against the Pantera's at our POCA June event as well. You fancy the drive up from SoCal for 2 days at Reno-Fernley Raceway? Hopefully there will be a caravan of Pantera's coming up from your area too.
Julian
Edited by JoulesCanAm on Thursday 9th April 06:23
Chewy is probably the best person to ask as he has raced his GTR, and it went like stink! (watch his videos on PH TV to see what I mean).
He changed his suspension springs also for that - and it only cost around £130 for all four.
Do you have a rear wing? This will also make a big difference to your lap times.
The Toyo R888 are phenomenal & they last so much longer than the Khumo (mines done 3K miles & 2 x drag events & I still have 4 mm left).
He changed his suspension springs also for that - and it only cost around £130 for all four.
Do you have a rear wing? This will also make a big difference to your lap times.
The Toyo R888 are phenomenal & they last so much longer than the Khumo (mines done 3K miles & 2 x drag events & I still have 4 mm left).
Was going to start a new thread, then found this.
There's a track in Zhuhai, about 1 hour from Hong Kong. Ive been going down there and renting a Ginetta G20 and have decided to send the Ultima down for a while, so have a few questions for those who've been beating on their cars at the track.
TRANSMISSION COOLER.
Has anyone found this necessary? If so, what system did you use?
SUSPENSION SETTINGS
Any tips on the suspension setup?
BRAKES
Any issues with the AP racing brakes?
TYRES
I know this has been covered elsewhere, but will chuck it in this thread anyway.
Seems Toyo's are favoured.
Toyo R888 255/35-18
Toyo R888 335/40-18
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
ACCUSUMP.
Fitted the cable operated version.
There's a track in Zhuhai, about 1 hour from Hong Kong. Ive been going down there and renting a Ginetta G20 and have decided to send the Ultima down for a while, so have a few questions for those who've been beating on their cars at the track.
TRANSMISSION COOLER.
Has anyone found this necessary? If so, what system did you use?
SUSPENSION SETTINGS
Any tips on the suspension setup?
BRAKES
Any issues with the AP racing brakes?
TYRES
I know this has been covered elsewhere, but will chuck it in this thread anyway.
Seems Toyo's are favoured.
Toyo R888 255/35-18
Toyo R888 335/40-18
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
ACCUSUMP.
Fitted the cable operated version.
crafty said:
.....ACCUSUMP.
Fitted the cable operated version.
I would not rely on that.Fitted the cable operated version.
At the time the light comes on you will be mid corner and a bit busy.
By the time you have seen the light and reacted you will be:-
A/ In the middle of the next corner.
B/ Too late to save the engine.
Fit electric with an oil pressure switch set higher than your dash light comes on.
Unless you fit a light to the Accusump circuit you will be unaware it is saving you.
Steve
Steve_D said:
I would not rely on that.
At the time the light comes on you will be mid corner and a bit busy.
By the time you have seen the light and reacted you will be:-
A/ In the middle of the next corner.
B/ Too late to save the engine.
Fit electric with an oil pressure switch set higher than your dash light comes on.
Unless you fit a light to the Accusump circuit you will be unaware it is saving you.
Steve
As I understand it:At the time the light comes on you will be mid corner and a bit busy.
By the time you have seen the light and reacted you will be:-
A/ In the middle of the next corner.
B/ Too late to save the engine.
Fit electric with an oil pressure switch set higher than your dash light comes on.
Unless you fit a light to the Accusump circuit you will be unaware it is saving you.
Steve
Just before shutting the engine down, you rev the car, build pressure and close the valve. This maintains pressure for starting the car.
Before starting the car, you open the value, preoiling the engine.
Then you leave the valve open.... the oil system always builds pressure in the accusump... there is a check valve between the Tee and the oil cooler, so the accumsump is maintaining the pressure on the engine side of the check valve.
So,.... if the oil pump draws air, the pressure is still there on the engine side of the check valve
I think you activate the accusump with the cable just before you start engine and leave it that way allowing oil pressure to float with engine which is no good at all. You need an electric system which allows discharge at approx 25 psi and then refills accusump when pressure goes above 35 psi. Accusump ie Canton can supply these at various different pressure settings.
MarkWebb said:
I think you activate the accusump with the cable just before you start engine and leave it that way allowing oil pressure to float with engine which is no good at all. You need an electric system which allows discharge at approx 25 psi and then refills accusump when pressure goes above 35 psi. Accusump ie Canton can supply these at various different pressure settings.
this is what i meantAs Mark said if you allow it to float the oil pressure my only be what was there on the trailing throttle as you entered the fateful corner whereas if the valve was electrically closed prior to said corner you could have available the pressure build up from full chat down the previous straight.
Steve
Steve
JoulesCanAm said:
I'm sure it must have been covered previously, but the search engine didn't bring up anything useful. So what initial/basic set up works for those guys that have tracked their Ultima?
I have rose jointed suspension, Intrax shocks with factory recommended track springs and will be running Toyo R888 tires. I'm adding the front splitter too and I'd like to know typical settings for;
Camber & Toe (front & rear)
Ride height & Shock settings (# clicks)
Plus anything else useful to know.
Thanks,
Julian
GO DRY SUMP. With R888's and all the other mods you could kill the engine within the 1st lap. Yes the Accusump is a good idea but it sounds like you will doing more than just a few fun laps. I know they ain't cheap but less than a rebuild!I have rose jointed suspension, Intrax shocks with factory recommended track springs and will be running Toyo R888 tires. I'm adding the front splitter too and I'd like to know typical settings for;
Camber & Toe (front & rear)
Ride height & Shock settings (# clicks)
Plus anything else useful to know.
Thanks,
Julian
Edited by JoulesCanAm on Thursday 9th April 06:22
Paul.B said:
GO DRY SUMP. With R888's and all the other mods you could kill the engine within the 1st lap. Yes the Accusump is a good idea but it sounds like you will doing more than just a few fun laps. I know they ain't cheap but less than a rebuild!
Yes my car is dry sump... no need for accusump for me.The initial track setup was some time ago (around 1500 track miles) and I can report that I didn't change very much at all from the initial factory settings. Some readjustment on the rear clamshell as one tire was rubbing, played around to find an optimal tire pressure and altered the angle on the rear wing. I ran and still run on Hoosiers as the R888's are not available in front 235 size.
Julian
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