Sound Proofing
Discussion
I have made and fitted a top quality carpet set for the Ultima . It's HD twist Wilton with nice stitched on edging . I've left lines of rivets exposed to keep the racy appearance . This is in order to cut down sound . I've also braced the rear bulkhead to the horizontal chassis tube holding the shoulder strap fixings . Total weight is 3.5 KG . There is now no echoeing round the interior . The sound is now very directional ; sraight through the rea bulkhead , unsurprisingly .
QUESTION ; Has anyone tried to sound deaden the rear bulkhead ? If so to what degree of success ?
Sound is now 25% down .
Frank
QUESTION ; Has anyone tried to sound deaden the rear bulkhead ? If so to what degree of success ?
Sound is now 25% down .
Frank
The rear bulkhead carpet was fitted during my build and was supplied by the factory . I live close to Kidderminster where carpets are made . I bought a piece 4ft 6inches by 12ft . It is 9mm thick cost £55. Tel them on 01562 755769 and ask for a quote " Bell Twist Ebony , Stuck Roll , Slight Seconds ". The quality is much better than anything at Stonleigh .
Lay squares of thin / straight edge cardboard pieces on the floor and push them into the sides and corners of the floor . If you overlap them and then tape them together you will have a template for you carpet . I cut mine short of the rivet lines around the footwell and rear of the floor to leave the rivets exposed .
The sides are just measured with a tape and then cut . 2 pieces per vertical sides ; I cut mine so they met in the vertical bend in the sides . Also just below the rivet line .
Go along the same deciding which parts you want to cover . I even carpeted the ceiling !
When all pieces are cut to size the exposed edges will need edging which will have to be done by a trimmer . Edges which meet at a right angle in corners or elsewhere look better not edged .
Fitting is easy but good quality old fashioned contact adhesive is a must .
1 . Support the section of carpet temporarily and mark where the edge is with a pencil line or other .
2 . Remove that section and mask with masking tape the aluminium up to the pencil line where you don't want glue .
3 . Use a scotch pad and abrade the aluminium up to the tape to get a good key . Degrease the area .
4 . Spread glue on the aluminium overlapping the masking tape paying attention to the edges .
5 . Do same with carpet and place in position before too tacky so you can reposition if required . Peel of the tape .
6 . Firmly smooth into place and after a while when the glue has gone off use a hammer and tap all over to firmly adhere the carpet .
I took the seats out to carpet underneath them . If you do this use longer bolts in the seat runners and use a nut as a spacer to keep the runners off the carpet .
PM me if you would like a photo .
Frank
Lay squares of thin / straight edge cardboard pieces on the floor and push them into the sides and corners of the floor . If you overlap them and then tape them together you will have a template for you carpet . I cut mine short of the rivet lines around the footwell and rear of the floor to leave the rivets exposed .
The sides are just measured with a tape and then cut . 2 pieces per vertical sides ; I cut mine so they met in the vertical bend in the sides . Also just below the rivet line .
Go along the same deciding which parts you want to cover . I even carpeted the ceiling !
When all pieces are cut to size the exposed edges will need edging which will have to be done by a trimmer . Edges which meet at a right angle in corners or elsewhere look better not edged .
Fitting is easy but good quality old fashioned contact adhesive is a must .
1 . Support the section of carpet temporarily and mark where the edge is with a pencil line or other .
2 . Remove that section and mask with masking tape the aluminium up to the pencil line where you don't want glue .
3 . Use a scotch pad and abrade the aluminium up to the tape to get a good key . Degrease the area .
4 . Spread glue on the aluminium overlapping the masking tape paying attention to the edges .
5 . Do same with carpet and place in position before too tacky so you can reposition if required . Peel of the tape .
6 . Firmly smooth into place and after a while when the glue has gone off use a hammer and tap all over to firmly adhere the carpet .
I took the seats out to carpet underneath them . If you do this use longer bolts in the seat runners and use a nut as a spacer to keep the runners off the carpet .
PM me if you would like a photo .
Frank
Rightly or wrongly I've glued mine all over so it would be a nightmare to remove . Thats one of the reasons I used extra Heavy Duty carpet so it will last for years . I still have had no feedback on anyones' success or otherewise of sound proofing the rear bulkhead . I think anything inside the engine compartment would have to be fire resistant .
Frank
Frank
my bulk head is carpeted direct onto the bulk head... I find it noisy inside but them my silencers are loud.....
If it was too quite it would feel like a lux car rather than raw car..
What advantages are you really going to get making another panel up covering the lovely roll cage....??
IMO not only will you loose room behind the seats but i really cant see it making that much difference in noise... the car is plastic and there is a massive V8 behind you...... I Bet sealing the doors/body , sealing the storage bins(amazing how much noise comes through those, and dynomatting the bulkhead and floor would give more benifit...... Anyway thats my opinion..
Dom
If it was too quite it would feel like a lux car rather than raw car..
What advantages are you really going to get making another panel up covering the lovely roll cage....??
IMO not only will you loose room behind the seats but i really cant see it making that much difference in noise... the car is plastic and there is a massive V8 behind you...... I Bet sealing the doors/body , sealing the storage bins(amazing how much noise comes through those, and dynomatting the bulkhead and floor would give more benifit...... Anyway thats my opinion..
Dom
Thanks Dom
I'll try those other areas but also make a temporary inner bulkhead and if this makes a big difference make it permanent . It's tireing on a long journey and at 1800 RPM there is an unpleasant ressonance which someone else has refered to on their car .This is worse than the hand grenade effect when you accelerate , in terms of annoyance . I think it is intake ressonance which I had in a big way on my diesel land cruiser but mamaged to completely eliminate it by lagging all the turbo pipes , air cleaner assembly and main induction pipe . This approach is not possible with the ultima .
Frank
I'll try those other areas but also make a temporary inner bulkhead and if this makes a big difference make it permanent . It's tireing on a long journey and at 1800 RPM there is an unpleasant ressonance which someone else has refered to on their car .This is worse than the hand grenade effect when you accelerate , in terms of annoyance . I think it is intake ressonance which I had in a big way on my diesel land cruiser but mamaged to completely eliminate it by lagging all the turbo pipes , air cleaner assembly and main induction pipe . This approach is not possible with the ultima .
Frank
All my panels - rear bulkhead, front bulkhead, floor, side panels have been
filled with acoustic foam which also has a heat reflective facing. The rear
bulkhead has 3 layers.
The cockpit is also going to be fully carpeted.
Not trying to kill the noise completely, but didn't want to get to the end of
the build wishing I had done something.
Tony.
filled with acoustic foam which also has a heat reflective facing. The rear
bulkhead has 3 layers.
The cockpit is also going to be fully carpeted.
Not trying to kill the noise completely, but didn't want to get to the end of
the build wishing I had done something.
Tony.
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