how easy is it to remove clutch
Discussion
Clutch dragging is normally a sign that the release mechanism is at fault.
This may be to do with the mechanism inside the bell housing but is more likely to be slave cylinder related. I would first be doing lots of work making sure the slave or master cylinders were working properly and do not need bleeding.
If it is the external type slave cylinder you may want to remove it and (still with pipe connected) hang it up in the air to make sure all air bubbles will find their way to the bleeder then very carefully bleed the system.
Many before you have had problems getting the clutch bled properly.
Steve
This may be to do with the mechanism inside the bell housing but is more likely to be slave cylinder related. I would first be doing lots of work making sure the slave or master cylinders were working properly and do not need bleeding.
If it is the external type slave cylinder you may want to remove it and (still with pipe connected) hang it up in the air to make sure all air bubbles will find their way to the bleeder then very carefully bleed the system.
Many before you have had problems getting the clutch bled properly.
Steve
im sure you have checked the bits Steve has said, its quite easy but i think your dry sump tank will be in the way. We have a cut down input shaft to help with clutch alignment so if you need to borrow it give me a shout.
You dont have to take the box right out the chassis you can pull it back far enough to sort the clutch. You can also just disconnect the inboard drive shaft cv joint.
You dont have to take the box right out the chassis you can pull it back far enough to sort the clutch. You can also just disconnect the inboard drive shaft cv joint.
yes these symptons are a strange one..
im sure slave and master ok. have changed fluid and bled. Factory suggested i adjust master cylinder at the pedal which i have tried and after adjusting again last night it helped a bit.adjusting again tonight.
symptons are
clutch bite is half way(used to be near the bottom before i adjusted at pedal)...
start engine and goes into gear nice. let clutch out its nice....drive along the road and as you come to lights junction etc etc, if you push in the clutch to coast to a hault, the engine revs stay the same as if clutch was out, but if you blip throttle the revs drop to tick over... also sometimes if you try to start in gear with clutch in the car tries to move forward slightly.....
im suspecting warped clutch back plate or release bearing is not sliding freely on the shaft.its a triple clutch and as far as im aware does not have locker mechanism...
i need to get clip off safely first as im single its not a one man job... once off are we talking 1 ,2 or 3 hours roughly??? and seeing as its apart is it worth replacing it while its out.its done 3k??
thanks guys
im sure slave and master ok. have changed fluid and bled. Factory suggested i adjust master cylinder at the pedal which i have tried and after adjusting again last night it helped a bit.adjusting again tonight.
symptons are
clutch bite is half way(used to be near the bottom before i adjusted at pedal)...
start engine and goes into gear nice. let clutch out its nice....drive along the road and as you come to lights junction etc etc, if you push in the clutch to coast to a hault, the engine revs stay the same as if clutch was out, but if you blip throttle the revs drop to tick over... also sometimes if you try to start in gear with clutch in the car tries to move forward slightly.....
im suspecting warped clutch back plate or release bearing is not sliding freely on the shaft.its a triple clutch and as far as im aware does not have locker mechanism...
i need to get clip off safely first as im single its not a one man job... once off are we talking 1 ,2 or 3 hours roughly??? and seeing as its apart is it worth replacing it while its out.its done 3k??
thanks guys
Taking the clip off can be done single handed.
Get the car into the position you want to park the rear clip.
Disconnect the rear electrics.
Release the gas struts and open the clip even further until you can feel the point where the hinges have reached their limit of travel. Make a mental note of the height under the top edge of the rear grill opening. Find a sturdy box and some packing to position under that top lip so the clip can now be opened to rest on the box without straining the hinges.
Now find some blocks of wood that don't quite fit under the rounded part of the clip just behind the wheels.
Remove the hinge bolt on one side making a note of where and how many washers are used. Lift the clip and slide your blocks under that side.
Repeat on the other side. You should now be able to push the car forward leaving the clip parked almost vertical. If it does not want to balance right then a couple of paint pots or a bag of sand stood in the back of the clip will keep it from tipping forward.
Steve
Get the car into the position you want to park the rear clip.
Disconnect the rear electrics.
Release the gas struts and open the clip even further until you can feel the point where the hinges have reached their limit of travel. Make a mental note of the height under the top edge of the rear grill opening. Find a sturdy box and some packing to position under that top lip so the clip can now be opened to rest on the box without straining the hinges.
Now find some blocks of wood that don't quite fit under the rounded part of the clip just behind the wheels.
Remove the hinge bolt on one side making a note of where and how many washers are used. Lift the clip and slide your blocks under that side.
Repeat on the other side. You should now be able to push the car forward leaving the clip parked almost vertical. If it does not want to balance right then a couple of paint pots or a bag of sand stood in the back of the clip will keep it from tipping forward.
Steve
Dom
If its an intermittent fault , or part like that it may be worth checking the crankshaft thrust bearing . Take out the starter and put a dial gauge on the flywheel . You can then lever the cranshaft fore and aft with a screwdriver through one of the bell housing holes where the ring gear is visible . Mine was .016" when new and is still the same at 500 miles.
frank
If its an intermittent fault , or part like that it may be worth checking the crankshaft thrust bearing . Take out the starter and put a dial gauge on the flywheel . You can then lever the cranshaft fore and aft with a screwdriver through one of the bell housing holes where the ring gear is visible . Mine was .016" when new and is still the same at 500 miles.
frank
Do you remember the same fault on the old Mini's Frank?......usually, shortly after a replacement clutch when someone had bashed the flywheel off through the starter aperture, causing the thrust washers to fall out and lots of clutch adjustment required.
The SBC thrust washer's can be a problem and there are a couple of mods during initial build to help. American Speed do carry out one of the mods in their motors. The SBC thrust washers will even fail (weld and peel off) due to poor earthing!!
I would think it's more likely just to be 'multi-plate blues' Dom! Apparently they can be a bit fickle to set-up for the road.
Can-Am Dave is experienced with those set-up's!
The SBC thrust washer's can be a problem and there are a couple of mods during initial build to help. American Speed do carry out one of the mods in their motors. The SBC thrust washers will even fail (weld and peel off) due to poor earthing!!
I would think it's more likely just to be 'multi-plate blues' Dom! Apparently they can be a bit fickle to set-up for the road.
Can-Am Dave is experienced with those set-up's!
martinlaw said:
Hi Dom,
Where do you live in Cheshire, i live near Crewe and could call around if you need a hand with the clip etc.
My email is martin@lawrencedavis.co.uk
Cheers,
Martin
yOURE IN CREWE???Where do you live in Cheshire, i live near Crewe and could call around if you need a hand with the clip etc.
My email is martin@lawrencedavis.co.uk
Cheers,
Martin
Im only in Macc... b;oo** hell....clutch is ok at moment after last adjustment... will test again at weekend.... being so close if you need a helping hand as well , just give me a shout..
dom.farley@tiscali.co.uk
will pm my phone number after watching 5th gear
dom
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