Engine position
Engine position
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Discussion

Steve_D

Original Poster:

13,801 posts

287 months

Sunday 14th December 2003
quotequote all
Today I put the engine into place so that I could make up some of the pipework and wiring.
The build manual says to set it on it's mounts and put a 5mm spacer between the bottom of the adaptor plate and the chassis cross member.
In my case:
1. The adaptor sits way behind the chassis cross member.
2. The sump extends 65mm behind the front edge of the chassis cross member. The engine sump is currently sitting on the cross member.
3. The bottom of the adaptor plate is 55mm higher than the sump.

Is my installation wrong or is the book wrong?

Steve

k wright

1,039 posts

288 months

Sunday 14th December 2003
quotequote all
I think that the book needs an update, however, my installation included the engine mount adapters that move the engine forward 1". Give the guys at the factory a call, they are always a great help.

I really didn't like the oil pan hanging out of the bottom of the car and I had other reasons that forced me to get a custom oil pan. When I had Canton redesign the pan I requested that it be 1" more shallow. It really fits much better in the car.

ken

>> Edited by k wright on Sunday 14th December 20:50

Steve_D

Original Poster:

13,801 posts

287 months

Sunday 14th December 2003
quotequote all
Even moving the engine an inch forward will still leave the sump on top of the chassis cross member.
Steve

davefiddes

846 posts

289 months

Sunday 14th December 2003
quotequote all
The rear edge of the sump was in line with the rear edge of the chassis cross memeber on my car. This was with the engine mounted with the std mounts with no spacer brackets or extra washers (don't seem to need them for my gearbox). The clearance between the sump and cross memeber is about 4mm when installed. I put a bit of neoprene rubber sheet between the two when installing to space them apart.

This was with a 7 1/2" canton sump on an American Speed engine and a G50/03 gearbox. Different engine/gearbox/sump combinations have slightly different issues and potential clearance problems from what I understand. You can use washers under the motor mounts on the block to space things up if it is too tight with your gearbox on (BobM had to do this I think).

Double check with Ultima. There are a lot of permutations of bits.

Steve_D

Original Poster:

13,801 posts

287 months

Sunday 14th December 2003
quotequote all
Right, that's OK then so the sump does pass over the cross member.
I don't have a gearbox yet so will worry about the fore and aft position when I get that.

The foam tape between sump and cross member is a good idea. You don't want stones to get trapped in there.

Steve

bigmack

553 posts

289 months

Sunday 14th December 2003
quotequote all
My stock sump sits just above the rear crossmember. Looks like about a 5mm gap. With the canton 7 and 1/2 inch pan, mine sat directly on the crossmember with the transaxle installed. The transaxle will raise the rear of the engine a little.
Cheers!
-Mack

Big Al.

69,336 posts

287 months

Sunday 14th December 2003
quotequote all
Posted on behalf of bigmac:-

My stock sump sits above the crossmember. It looks like about 5mm between the sump and crossmember. Maybe the factory had a typo. Also, your engine will definitely raise up in the rear some when you install the gearbox.
Cheers!
-Mack

You posted it via the report abuse button!

bigmack

553 posts

289 months

Monday 15th December 2003
quotequote all
Sorry about that Al!
As you can see the messege had already been reposted!

BobM

944 posts

284 months

Monday 15th December 2003
quotequote all
Steve_D said:
The build manual says to set it on it's mounts and put a 5mm spacer between the bottom of the adaptor plate and the chassis cross member.
...
Is my installation wrong or is the book wrong?
The book. I used a piece of wood as a spacer on the cross member as per the manual and couldn't get the gearbox on the engine. Even without the packing I found the sump was still sitting on the cross member with the gearbox in place.

After tearing my hair out over the weekend I spoke to the factory who said they usually use packing washers under the upper two bolts on the engine mountings and a 3mm rubber strip on top of the cross member. With the washers on the engine mounts I've got around 5mm clearance between sump and cross member.

Here's the thread in this forum

And here's the relevant bit on my site - October 4th.

GTRClive

4,193 posts

312 months

Monday 15th December 2003
quotequote all
Steve_D said:

3. The bottom of the adaptor plate is 55mm higher than the sump.
Steve


How deep is your sump from the block, no more than 7.5" I hope. 55mm sounds alittle to much, I'm sure mine's alot less than that. I'll have to check.

steve_D

Original Poster:

13,801 posts

287 months

Monday 15th December 2003
quotequote all
GTRClive said:

Steve_D said:

3. The bottom of the adaptor plate is 55mm higher than the sump.
Steve



How deep is your sump from the block, no more than 7.5" I hope. 55mm sounds alittle to much, I'm sure mine's alot less than that. I'll have to check.


I'll check the sump tonight, on IOW today.
Steve

Steve_D

Original Poster:

13,801 posts

287 months

Monday 15th December 2003
quotequote all
The sump is 8" deep. Am I in trouble?
Steve

bigmack

553 posts

289 months

Monday 15th December 2003
quotequote all
Afraid so Steve. This lesson cost me 3 oilpans. 7.25"-7.5" is the max. You can do one of several things at this point. Buy another pan. If you get the Canton 7.5" pan then you'll still need a little spacer. Stock pan has no problems, but you might want to add a crank scraper and windage tray. You can have a relief welded into your current pan to clear that cross member. Another thought is to obtain some 1/2" thick alumimum plate and make two spacers that mount in-between your motor mount and block. This would raise your CofG slightly which may or may not be that big of a deal to you. Personally, I went with a stock 6.5 qt pan, windage tray, crank scraper, and accusump.
Cheers!
-Mack

gdr

589 posts

289 months

Monday 15th December 2003
quotequote all
At least I am not the only one who had oilpan woes - I got it right the second time. Eventually used a Canton 7" deep road race pan (check their website) which fitted OK in my car with G50/03 box, no motor mount spacers required. Similar shape to 7 1/2" but wings extend a bit further forward. If you have your engine set forward with the special engine mounting plates possibly could interfere with diagonal chassis x members but plenty clearance in my installation.

steve_D

Original Poster:

13,801 posts

287 months

Tuesday 16th December 2003
quotequote all
Anyone know who stocks Canton sumps here in the UK?
Anyone want to buy a lighly oiled Milodon sump.
Steve

gdr

589 posts

289 months

Tuesday 16th December 2003
quotequote all
steve_D said:
Anyone know who stocks Canton sumps here in the UK?
Anyone want to buy a lighly oiled Milodon sump.
Steve

I ended up getting one imported by Ultimate Spares America, not very quick however. Or you could buy yourself from US supplier (or direct from Canton) and get these guys www.moving-parts.com/ to import. I doubt if such an item would be stocked in UK but worth phoning around.
Also try e-bay (I sold my 7.5" sump there to UK buyer, no problem and surprising no. of bids). You should be able to shift your Milodon pan on e-bay.

GTRClive

4,193 posts

312 months

Tuesday 16th December 2003
quotequote all
Steve just get PK to order one for you !

steve_D

Original Poster:

13,801 posts

287 months

Tuesday 16th December 2003
quotequote all
GTRClive said:
Steve just get PK to order one for you !


Yes probably easiest. The engines going back on the dyno Friday 9th Jan. If I get a move on he may be able to get it for then.
Any idea what part number I am looking for?
Steve