Deburring rivet holes

[454]

I managed to sneak out to the garage for a few hours over Christmas and to cut a long story short I have finished trimming and drilling my rear bulkhead panel
I'm looking for some tips on deburring the holes as the manual recommends a hand held drill bit of a larger size, this seems fine for the front where there isn't much swarf etc but I'm having no joy at the back where there seems to be quite a lot of debris to remove.

What did you guys use to tidy up your holes ?

[GTRClive]

As recomended a larger drill bit, ground with alittle more rake angle, in my second battery drill on slow.

[davefiddes]

I bought a hand hole deburring/counter sink tool. It does a lot better job than a big drill bit. If you don't have one already grab a sheet metal deburring tool. These are great for putting a nice chamfer on all the straight edges very quickly. It's also been very useful for breaking sharp edges on most brackets, etc. Great for reducing the number of slashed fingers, etc you suffer when reading into tight corners in the months to come.

Cost is about £6-7 each from a good tool shop.

[454]

Thanks guys,

I have a sheet metal deburring tool which, as you said, is great for the edges etc but it's not much use for the 3.3mm holes.
I was using a hand held 5mm bit, maybe I should go a little bigger and use a bit more pressure.

Dave, where did you get your hand hole deburring/counter sink tool from ?

[liszt]

I used to use a 13 mm hss drill with a load of gaffer tape around the shank. Works a treat.

[BigAl1]

I just completed my inside rear bulkhead panel yesterday and experienced the same issue. I ended up with a 1/4" drill bit running slow in the drill, quickly hopping from hole to hole. Went very quick this way.
Allan

[USCANAM]

Jeremy
I sent you direct a photo of the cutter I used from a microstop countersink tool. Not sure if you can get the cutters seperate, but if you buy the whole unit, you can control the depth of the deburring right up to .001".
It's item AT441
You could check with Aircraft Spruce if you can just buy a 1/8" cutter.
www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/microstop.php
Jack

>> Edited by USCANAM on Friday 2nd January 14:53

[davefiddes]

That's a pretty neat looking tool. It would definitely make neat quick work of all those holes. My wrists felt like they were going to fall off after I'd hand deburred and riveted the 1000 odd holes.

Jeremy: My countersink came from an independent industrial tool supplier not far from me. It is a HANDIBURR and was made by HALL tools of Sheffield and has 3 cutting edges and a 90 degree countersink. Just about any decent tool shop should have one or something similar. The DIY places (B&Q, homebase, etc) are useless. All they stock are wood working countersinks (with 10 or more cutting faces) which are no good on soft aluminium. It works better than a drill because it has the extra cutting edge which seem to centre the countersink better in the hole.

[USCANAM]

I posted a photo on my buildsite of the tool I used for deburring the rivet holes.
http://home.comcast.net/~rosenracing6/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-1226345.html
This is just the cutter from my microstop tool which is used to precisely control the depth of a countersink when installing flat head aircraft rivets.
It appears that you can order the cutter by itself. That would be a 1/8" one, or spend the extra money for the holder too,you can perfectly deburr the hole every time by controlling the depth of the cutter, and quickly too!
Jack

[454]

Thanks all

I'm looking around for a good local tool shop to see what I can find in the way of a proper tool for this job.
I'll post up the result when I've found something suitable.
Hopefully this shouldn't take too long as I am about to start the side panels so will soon have a lot of holes to sort out