lost core plug s b c
Discussion
Hi has this happend to anyone else or have i been unlucky , out today in my Ultima ( 1st real run since i picked it up 4 weeks ago ) any way i was on way back home one last blat and all over a sudden iv got a vapor trail behind me , well the long and the short is one of the coreplugs on the side of engine ( an easy one to get to as luck would have it ) the engine has only covered just over 1100 miles it an american speed 500 brake s b c and was not running hot or even nearly hot , so as i said has it happend to any one else or have i been just been unlucky 
any tips on refilling system or is it just a case of re fill into header tank with heater valve open running engine at same time ?, as i wrote i came of a round about guned it over a 200 metre length of road i glanced in mirror after changing in to 3rd gear i noticed the plume of steam and switched off so the engine was run for minimal time with out water , ??? fingers crossed 
You won't have done any damage. Your described procedure for filling is that which I did and all filled OK. When all is hot the thermastat opens and the water level drops quickly. I just kept topping up with water and reving up by hand to squirt it round and flush all the air out. Top up after a run was all that was required to complete. Heater open.
frank
frank
If I had the core plug drop out I think I would try and find a larger one than standard.
They are not expensive so I would buy a few from different sources and measure them all selecting the largest one to use.
I have never had any problems bleeding the system on refill. Just top it up and run it open until warm. top both pots up and cap then then leave to cool. When cold the swirl pot should be full to the brim and the expansion tank down to about one third full.
Steve
They are not expensive so I would buy a few from different sources and measure them all selecting the largest one to use.
I have never had any problems bleeding the system on refill. Just top it up and run it open until warm. top both pots up and cap then then leave to cool. When cold the swirl pot should be full to the brim and the expansion tank down to about one third full.
Steve
well, fitted new plug into engine, sealed and locked in place using hydrulic thread lock, new one was a very tight fit ( as they should be ) ill let it go off and refill and blead will also smear a little liquid metal on edges of plug and block the others i can see all look well seated and there is no signs of disturbance hopefully just a rouge plug ???
thanks to all the replies . refilled run up to temp , all ok , got away with out any permanate damage , gonna carry a spare plug along with some locktight for sods law reasons , if iv got it i will never need it 
, any way as i said thanks for all your advice , and if i dont post before happy xmass
, any way as i said thanks for all your advice , and if i dont post before happy xmassJust a side note, the reason engines have core plugs is if coolant freezes it pops the core plug and doesn't crack the block. So if you really fix them it place and it freezes..... probably not a problem in the UK if you coolant/anti-freeze mixture is up to spec.
I have to say this has given me an idea for a cheap and cheerful engine preheater. You can buy "block heaters" (at least you can in Canada where I'm originally from and therefore knowing a bit about freezing your @ss off!), these are heating elements that you put in place of a core plug. You then just plug them into the mains and hey presto warm coolant / engine block. Not as good as a oil preheater but a dam sight cheaper!
I have to say this has given me an idea for a cheap and cheerful engine preheater. You can buy "block heaters" (at least you can in Canada where I'm originally from and therefore knowing a bit about freezing your @ss off!), these are heating elements that you put in place of a core plug. You then just plug them into the mains and hey presto warm coolant / engine block. Not as good as a oil preheater but a dam sight cheaper!
Swiss_Toni said:
Just a side note, the reason engines have core plugs is if coolant freezes it pops the core plug and doesn't crack the block.
This isn't the reason why engines have core plugs. The internal passageways within an engine block are formed by sand "cores" which are placed in the mould before the block is cast. Since the cores are completely surrounded by metal, holes have to left in the block in order to get the sand out, once the block has cooled. These holes are then sealed using a "core plug". Swiss_Toni said:
Just a side note, the reason engines have core plugs is if coolant freezes it pops the core plug and doesn't crack the block. So if you really fix them it place and it freezes..... probably not a problem in the UK if you coolant/anti-freeze mixture is up to spec.
I have to say this has given me an idea for a cheap and cheerful engine preheater. You can buy "block heaters" (at least you can in Canada where I'm originally from and therefore knowing a bit about freezing your @ss off!), these are heating elements that you put in place of a core plug. You then just plug them into the mains and hey presto warm coolant / engine block. Not as good as a oil preheater but a dam sight cheaper!
matter of interest how costly are these coolant units???I have to say this has given me an idea for a cheap and cheerful engine preheater. You can buy "block heaters" (at least you can in Canada where I'm originally from and therefore knowing a bit about freezing your @ss off!), these are heating elements that you put in place of a core plug. You then just plug them into the mains and hey presto warm coolant / engine block. Not as good as a oil preheater but a dam sight cheaper!
Alan 2 said:
Swiss_Toni said:
Just a side note, the reason engines have core plugs is if coolant freezes it pops the core plug and doesn't crack the block.
This isn't the reason why engines have core plugs. The internal passageways within an engine block are formed by sand "cores" which are placed in the mould before the block is cast. Since the cores are completely surrounded by metal, holes have to left in the block in order to get the sand out, once the block has cooled. These holes are then sealed using a "core plug". V8Dom said:
Swiss_Toni said:
Just a side note, the reason engines have core plugs is if coolant freezes it pops the core plug and doesn't crack the block. So if you really fix them it place and it freezes..... probably not a problem in the UK if you coolant/anti-freeze mixture is up to spec.
I have to say this has given me an idea for a cheap and cheerful engine preheater. You can buy "block heaters" (at least you can in Canada where I'm originally from and therefore knowing a bit about freezing your @ss off!), these are heating elements that you put in place of a core plug. You then just plug them into the mains and hey presto warm coolant / engine block. Not as good as a oil preheater but a dam sight cheaper!
matter of interest how costly are these coolant units???I have to say this has given me an idea for a cheap and cheerful engine preheater. You can buy "block heaters" (at least you can in Canada where I'm originally from and therefore knowing a bit about freezing your @ss off!), these are heating elements that you put in place of a core plug. You then just plug them into the mains and hey presto warm coolant / engine block. Not as good as a oil preheater but a dam sight cheaper!
Our one was diesel powered, and was designed and made by co-driver and it connected with dry-break couplings (not cheap) and it used to take about 20 minutes or so to get the temp up sufficiently that the engine could be started. Essential with a race engine.
My mate Tom New, makes them for the hillclimb cars and you can see what they look like at :-
http://www.racecarpreheater.co.uk/features.php
Regards
Kelvin
I didn't know about the sanding casting reason for core plugs but I guess it make sense. Though they do put the plugs in to aid in frost protection and your right sometimes they don’t work.
These block heaters are pretty cheap if I remember, say £10 or £20 but if you buy them from North America they'll be 110 VAC (twice as hot, twice as fast, 1/2 or 0 the life) though Scandinavian countries must have them and therefore be 220VAC one available.
The emphasis is on CHEAP. The circulation one is really the only proper way to go, but its cost and something else to lug around. But 2 block heaters (1 on each side) and an oil heater (those with a dry sump tanks) can't do anything but help.
These block heaters are pretty cheap if I remember, say £10 or £20 but if you buy them from North America they'll be 110 VAC (twice as hot, twice as fast, 1/2 or 0 the life) though Scandinavian countries must have them and therefore be 220VAC one available.
The emphasis is on CHEAP. The circulation one is really the only proper way to go, but its cost and something else to lug around. But 2 block heaters (1 on each side) and an oil heater (those with a dry sump tanks) can't do anything but help.
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