Clutch function
Clutch function
Author
Discussion

k wright

Original Poster:

1,039 posts

288 months

Wednesday 11th February 2004
quotequote all
Very close to starting the car and today made the decision to finalize the brakes and clutch first. That being done I watched the clutch fork move through its range while an assistant fully depressed the clutch pedal. I was worried about over stroking the diaphragm spring until I saw that it only moved about a centimeter. Is this normal? Also, the bellhousing looks like it needs some rubber plugs to keep trash out. Anyone use them or know where to find them?

Thanks,

ken

andycanam

1,225 posts

293 months

Wednesday 11th February 2004
quotequote all
I think the clutch spring needs to move 12mm for full travel so "about 1cm" seems fine.

Funnily I've just fitted a new clutch and the clutch pedal is now significantly lighter.... seems the more they wear they heavier they get....
actually looking at the wear on the old clutch I'm amazed it didn't slip badly, not bad for porsche OE.

Rgds
Andy

canam-phil

499 posts

288 months

Wednesday 11th February 2004
quotequote all
k wright said:
Also, the bellhousing looks like it needs some rubber plugs to keep trash out. Anyone use them or know where to find them?

Thanks,

ken
The Porsche parts program only shows one rubber cover part over the slave cylinder aperture on the G50 and G64. Couple of quid from Porsche or cheaper from a salvage yard. I have the part number if you want it. For other transaxles I can look it up for you or your local friendly Porsche dealer will help.

davefiddes

846 posts

289 months

Wednesday 11th February 2004
quotequote all
I think that the bellhousing needs to be as open as it does to get the heat out from the clutch.

steve_D

13,801 posts

287 months

Wednesday 11th February 2004
quotequote all
davefiddes said:
I think that the bellhousing needs to be as open as it does to get the heat out from the clutch.


Is this a genuine issue?
I was about to start making a cover for the lower half of the adaptor plate. In this area the back of the flywheel is facing forward and open to the elements. (for 'elements' read any sort of muck and bullets the road surface can throw up).
Steve

Stig

11,823 posts

313 months

Wednesday 11th February 2004
quotequote all
Remember, worn clutch material need to get OUT too. I'd be careful about sealing it up too much.

>> Edited by Stig on Wednesday 11th February 13:10

steve_D

13,801 posts

287 months

Wednesday 11th February 2004
quotequote all
Perhaps a pressed metal screen would work. At least it would stop stones getting in there.
Steve

davefiddes

846 posts

289 months

Wednesday 11th February 2004
quotequote all
Steve, some of the adapter kits I've seen have had a cover plate. I'm not sure why yours doesn't. I can't see how getting air (and debris) to the back of the flywheel is going to do it much good.

My adapter plate (of a slightly different design) has a lot more metal round the engine side of the flywheel that effectively seals it up. A cover plate should be OK.

The holes in the bellhousing should be sufficient to expell any heat and or clutch dust I would have thought. When I cleaned up my 37k mile Porsche box it had a modest ammount of clag inside the bellhousing but it was mostly clutch dust and nothing like what was on the outside. I think that the rotating clutch acts like a radial pump and expells air mostly through the exposed side holes.

Chewy

257 posts

284 months

Wednesday 11th February 2004
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I can't add any technical do's or dont's but I can tell you that I took my gearbox off last week. I fitted mine as standard without covering the gaps. I have done 7000 road miles since June in all weather conditions and the housing was almost as new with only a very small amount of dust lightly stuck to the sides near the bottom of the housing. Needless to say I won't be bothering to cover the gaps after I re-fit it this week.

steve_D

13,801 posts

287 months

Wednesday 11th February 2004
quotequote all
So that's one less job to do then.
Steve