GTR Glass
Author
Discussion

Mjpmark

Original Poster:

746 posts

208 months

Monday 3rd May 2010
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Guys

Im at the glass fitting stage. However one of my side pieces of glass / plastic is a little large, the other is fine.

Having not done this before how do i trim it without making a complete hash of it?

Cheers

Mark

Pb3

1,064 posts

270 months

Monday 3rd May 2010
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Just file and sand it. Place it on a nice clean soft sheet, blanket etc to protect it while you work on it.

Builder

1,225 posts

266 months

Tuesday 4th May 2010
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Delicate work, to be sure. Has anyone fit glass instead of Perspex/Lexan?

UltimaCH

3,181 posts

213 months

Tuesday 4th May 2010
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Glass would be a good idea (less scratches) but heavier. Also don't know if it could be shaped like the plastic/lexan can.

Steve_D

13,801 posts

282 months

Tuesday 4th May 2010
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UltimaCH said:
Glass would be a good idea (less scratches) but heavier. Also don't know if it could be shaped like the plastic/lexan can.
Glass can be formed to any shape you require it just requires the application of a large £££££ force.

Steve

Builder

1,225 posts

266 months

Saturday 8th May 2010
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UltimaCH said:
Glass would be a good idea (less scratches) but heavier. Also don't know if it could be shaped like the plastic/lexan can.
Steve_D said:
Glass can be formed to any shape you require it just requires the application of a large £££££ force.
Ha! Yes, it's better and worse for those reasons. Daniel, if you mean shaped by hand as above. That definitely would be challenging. I will find out if glass can be fit that way

I've done a little research on this over the last week. Looks like a pair would be just under $500 + shipping. We would have to order 12 sets for that price. The price break at 24 sets is just a few dollars. At 50 sets, it's only around $10. The largest part of the cost is in the tooling and setup.

I found the company that makes many of the OEM side windows and latches/hinges. The glass is available in various tints, all pieces tempered, US-DOT approved and stamped. They sent a file with about 50 different hinges/latches with the suggestion to just look at what I see on cars on the street...that they probably make the latch.

My concerns:

  1. Is the window frame strong enough to hold the additional weight? I think so.
  2. What's the thickness of the Perspex and will glass be too thick for the recess in the door? I will find out tomorrow when I get out to the shop.
  3. What about openings for vents, hinges, latches and such? Some with? Some without?
  4. How will the door spring-lift handle the extra weight?
  5. Does the door flex significantly and will the glass cause other issues?
If we make the side windows, we can probably make the headlamp covers too.

I will be happy to work on getting these made, if there's enough interest. The price may be a bit much, but I would prefer glass over plastic...removable over fixed...open-able over non.

-- Scott

Mjpmark

Original Poster:

746 posts

208 months

Saturday 8th May 2010
quotequote all
i would be interested however be careful. One of my perspex side windows was significantly larger than the other. is this the same for everyone or will the glass be the correct size for every utima?

If so count me in.

paulbuckley

459 posts

235 months

Saturday 8th May 2010
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I'd be interested in side glass - critical thing would be the shape/contours and size so the fit of the master pattern (or whatever it's called for glass) was good. Could easily mod the window "recess" in the glassfibre and add hinges, or just bond it in etc.

Paul

Builder

1,225 posts

266 months

Saturday 8th May 2010
quotequote all
Mjpmark said:
i would be interested however be careful. One of my perspex side windows was significantly larger than the other. is this the same for everyone or will the glass be the correct size for every utima?

If so count me in.
I can sort of understand the Perspex might be a slightly different shape. We probably need to consider the window (or headlamp) recesses (body side) just as carefully. I will have a perfect fit with the Perspex before using it as a template for the glass. I have some questions into the manufacturer about sizing tempered glass.

paulbuckley said:
I'd be interested in side glass - critical thing would be the shape/contours and size so the fit of the master pattern (or whatever it's called for glass) was good. Could easily mod the window "recess" in the glassfibre and add hinges, or just bond it in etc.
You have crazy skills, Paul. I don't know how to do that with Fiberglass. Maybe it's time to learn. There are two other GTR in the area (that I know of) in California. I can take my Perspex on my next trip through and see how it fits in their doors after verifying my fit.

Notes on glass:

Thickness options are 3.3, 3.75, and 4.7mm (actual thickness). The nominal sizes are 3.5, 4, and 5mm. Our Perspex pieces are right at 3.2mm, so the 3.3mm glass would be extremely close.

The weight of the Perspex was about 1.77 lbs. The on-line material weight calculator says glass will weigh 3.97# The weight increase of 2.2# should not be enough to change the strut requirement.

The estimated weights do not include reductions for holes, or the weight of vents, latches, or hinges.

Steve_D

13,801 posts

282 months

Sunday 9th May 2010
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Builder said:
......I can take my Perspex on my next trip through and see how it fits in their doors after verifying my fit.........
As the doors are moulded the fit should be identical.

Steve

738 driver

1,202 posts

217 months

Sunday 9th May 2010
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..................but they might be asymmetrical, as is most of the body.

ROWDYRENAULT

1,294 posts

238 months

Sunday 9th May 2010
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This could be a very nice addition to the car. I would suggest that somebody find a 2.2 lb weight attach it to the door and see if it will open. If it won't I will suggest that trying to put stronger struts to open the door might lead to a raft of problems and my take would be to forget the idea. But if it will open, my Renault R5 Turbo has glass side windows that open at the back edge about an inch and a half the hardware to do the same on a Ultima might be sourced from Renault? maybe? I don't mean to be a pessimist by my middle comment, but we have all started down these roads before and regretted the idea. look forward to the further discussion of this idea. Lee

bluesatin

3,115 posts

296 months

Monday 10th May 2010
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Just be careful at high speed - the doors bend a lot due to pressure in the cabin.

Steve_D

13,801 posts

282 months

Monday 10th May 2010
quotequote all
bluesatin said:
Just be careful at high speed - the doors bend a lot due to pressure in the cabin.
I suspect that is vacuum outside rather than pressure inside unless you are running fresh air into the footwells.

Steve

738 driver

1,202 posts

217 months

Monday 10th May 2010
quotequote all
In theory its the ambient (whatever still air is) pressure inside the cabin that is greater than the lower pressure outside (when the car is moving), which forces the doors open. Ram-air into the cabin will be an additional problem.

bluesatin

3,115 posts

296 months

Monday 10th May 2010
quotequote all
Steering wheel hole and the rad pipes all draught air into the car at speed!

ROWDYRENAULT

1,294 posts

238 months

Monday 10th May 2010
quotequote all
Back to the Renault R5 Turbo. No A/C in the car, gets way hot in So Cal, with the dash vents open, front windows closed and rear windows closed real hot. But if you leave the rear windows cracked as suggested in previous note it really makes a difference. The trick would be to find the right hinge and over center lock devices like used in the Renault and I am sure a lot of other cars. I think you would want to reenforce the inside of the window frame so that the hinges were attached into a metal plate rather than the fibrerglass. Also a duct from one or both of the front brake scopes to the interior with a controled flap valve. Done correctly I could see the cr being comfy to maybe 75 80 degrees F without A/C. lEE

Mjpmark

Original Poster:

746 posts

208 months

Monday 10th May 2010
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Dave is that pilot speak!!

Builder

1,225 posts

266 months

Tuesday 11th May 2010
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From the manufacturer:

Tempered glass will flex slightly, and unlike laminated glass it will not shatter unless hundreds of pounds of torque is applied. For this application, I am not worried about the glass breaking if it is tempered. Laminated is a different story...

Lee, can you take some photos of the Renault hinges and latch?

This would be a great addition, especially if we can find a good setup for easy opening / removal. It could even be bolted on with a thin, rubber gasket.