Steering Wheel Quick Release with Electronics
Discussion
Hello Fellow PistonHeads!
Has anyone used products from SPA?
www.spa-uk.co.uk/design/quickrelease.htm
They have a facility in the Indianapolis area as well, and I thought it looked like an excellent solution.
And, what is the steering shaft diameter on the GTR?
Thanks,
-- Scott
Reno, NV
Has anyone used products from SPA?
www.spa-uk.co.uk/design/quickrelease.htm
They have a facility in the Indianapolis area as well, and I thought it looked like an excellent solution.
And, what is the steering shaft diameter on the GTR?
Thanks,
-- Scott
Reno, NV
It's steel with Cadmium or zinc plate and passivated.
You will need to think carefully about the final length as on my GTR that flange is no more than 3/8" of the face of the dash.
In the UK we have to have a crush zone in the column. This is a steel 'basket' structure that bolts to the flange with the 'wheel bolted to that. The basket has a rubber sleeve over it to complete the look.
Steve
You will need to think carefully about the final length as on my GTR that flange is no more than 3/8" of the face of the dash.
In the UK we have to have a crush zone in the column. This is a steel 'basket' structure that bolts to the flange with the 'wheel bolted to that. The basket has a rubber sleeve over it to complete the look.
Steve
I'm not wrong, it's a legal requirement that is looked for and inspected at SVA.
If drivers then choose to modify the vehicle by removing the crush zone and thereby making the vehicle illegal that is their lookout.
If you were to claim for an injury after a crash your insurance company would love to find such a modification which would allow them to declare your policy nul and void.
Steve
If drivers then choose to modify the vehicle by removing the crush zone and thereby making the vehicle illegal that is their lookout.
If you were to claim for an injury after a crash your insurance company would love to find such a modification which would allow them to declare your policy nul and void.
Steve
So you are telling me that virtually all ultima's on the road are illegal. To pass the SVA the rear wing edges has to be covered as does numerous other areas including the gurney flap on the vent for the radiator. All of theses are then removed after the sva making the car by your definition illegal- must sell it now before i get prosecuted!
It's pretty unlikely that a pedestrian will smack themselves off the back of the rear wing. If they did and sustained an injury then you are leaving yourself open to a negligence claim. This is pretty unlikely however compared with the distinct possibility of sustaining a preventable head injury in a head on smash and having the insurance company shrugging their shoulders and walking away because you removed a critical item of safety equipment.
IMO anyone who removes the crush structure from their steering is unlikely to sustain any serious injury by hitting their head on it though. Anyone this stupid must only have bone between their ears...
IMO anyone who removes the crush structure from their steering is unlikely to sustain any serious injury by hitting their head on it though. Anyone this stupid must only have bone between their ears...
ultimatebore said:
.... To pass the SVA the rear wing edges has to be covered as does numerous other areas including the gurney flap on the vent for the radiator......
I will reserve judgement on these other items you mention because I have not heard of this as a requirement. Can anyone else confirm that these covers need fitting for SAV?
I think you will find that this forum has plenty of useful information and advise to pass on but you may find that adopting such an aggressive stance on your first post will alienate those who could help you.
Steve
I think these views and comments are better directed at the factory and responded to privately by the factory.
Speculation of matters concerning critical safety components does not make for good publicity as it allows people to make assumtions that are not correct.
I think it is wise to tread carefully here.
Ultimatebore, there is good advice in the post above, and an introduction here would help as there is nothing in your profile and your posts could come across as Troll-like.
Speculation of matters concerning critical safety components does not make for good publicity as it allows people to make assumtions that are not correct.
I think it is wise to tread carefully here.
Ultimatebore, there is good advice in the post above, and an introduction here would help as there is nothing in your profile and your posts could come across as Troll-like.
Getting back to the topic, I made my own column and fitted the crush zone and a Snapon Unit as well, position was fine and left it on.
I have looked at these before and they are a lovly bit of kit, will be using one on my next project but still have a crushable unit behind it.
Lets face it, WE make our cars so it's only a chop and a weld if you want to modifie the column.
PS How are you ? or are you going to hide.....
I have looked at these before and they are a lovly bit of kit, will be using one on my next project but still have a crushable unit behind it.
Lets face it, WE make our cars so it's only a chop and a weld if you want to modifie the column.
PS How are you ? or are you going to hide.....
Gentlemen,
Thank you for your kind responses. I can appreciate how the government looks after its flock.
I haven't asked Ted, or seen a build guide for the USA yet, so I am unaware as to the application of a crush zone for approval here...same for wing. I imagine we are probably as strict.
My presumption is that, no matter what the regulations, a quick release such as the SPA unit wouldn't void a registration. I will ask SPA about it and report back.
When someone builds their own house, planning is all-important. A guy can have 20% equity, or 50% equity on the day he receives his certificate of occupancy. It all depends on the level of planning.
Although I don't expect to have any "equity" in the GTR, I do expect to build it without wasting my hard-earned cash. So, what I am doing is planning the build process, collecting components (when on sale), and hoping I will have most of what I need when I pull the trigger and place my order with Ultima.
The questions I have now are intended to clarify my path and planning. And, if they cause a little controversy, I think that's a good thing. But, it's how one responds to differing opinions that allows for mutual respect. It's not about who's wrong or right; it's about getting the right answer for everyone -- no matter how hard to discover what's true.
I will be seeing Ted next weekend in Southern California at a kit-car show ( see www.knotts.com/park/calendar/index.asp ). He and I will have yet another topic to discuss. Of course, I will post what I learn... (NOT TOO MUCH ABOUT SVA I HOPE!)
Sorry for the long post, but my age allows me the gift of gab!.
Thank you for your kind responses. I can appreciate how the government looks after its flock.
I haven't asked Ted, or seen a build guide for the USA yet, so I am unaware as to the application of a crush zone for approval here...same for wing. I imagine we are probably as strict. My presumption is that, no matter what the regulations, a quick release such as the SPA unit wouldn't void a registration. I will ask SPA about it and report back.
When someone builds their own house, planning is all-important. A guy can have 20% equity, or 50% equity on the day he receives his certificate of occupancy. It all depends on the level of planning.
Although I don't expect to have any "equity" in the GTR, I do expect to build it without wasting my hard-earned cash. So, what I am doing is planning the build process, collecting components (when on sale), and hoping I will have most of what I need when I pull the trigger and place my order with Ultima.
The questions I have now are intended to clarify my path and planning. And, if they cause a little controversy, I think that's a good thing. But, it's how one responds to differing opinions that allows for mutual respect. It's not about who's wrong or right; it's about getting the right answer for everyone -- no matter how hard to discover what's true.
I will be seeing Ted next weekend in Southern California at a kit-car show ( see www.knotts.com/park/calendar/index.asp ). He and I will have yet another topic to discuss. Of course, I will post what I learn... (NOT TOO MUCH ABOUT SVA I HOPE!)
Sorry for the long post, but my age allows me the gift of gab!.
Allen-GTR said:Thanks, Allen. I am starting to get the picture. This would be so much easier if I would just order the kit! So, the end that the wheel flange connects to is is tapered to 19mm?
Scott,
I wrote those dimensions down last night, but for some reason, it didn't post...
The dimensions according to my calipers are: 25.5mm tapering to 19mm. The 25.5mm section is 40mm long...
Allen
Yep. The flange is welded to a section 25.5mm dia. That section is 40mm long. Then it tapers to 19mm for the entire length.
Make sense?
I had a he!! of a time putting all of this together in my head before the car got here. All of it clicks in place in your head after you see it though.
Make sense?
I had a he!! of a time putting all of this together in my head before the car got here. All of it clicks in place in your head after you see it though.
Allen-GTR said:
Yep. The flange is welded to a section 25.5mm dia. That section is 40mm long. Then it tapers to 19mm for the entire length.
Make sense?
Yes. No. I think so! Okay, the wheel flange is welded to the fat part. Then, it tapers going through the dash towards the rack.
Really, I should just order the kit! Thanks, Allen.
-- Scott
Reno, NV
>> Edited by builder on Sunday 18th April 05:44
Sorry for missing that larger diameter on the end.
Starting from the top is the flange (which comes without any holes drilled in it so you can do your own steering wheel arrangement), That's welded to the 1" diameter which is what passes through the hole in the dash. Then reduces down to .750" diameter to pass through both the column support bearings (which are plastic inserts in steel tubes welded to the chassis). It then reduces to a spline for the first U/J.
Steve
Starting from the top is the flange (which comes without any holes drilled in it so you can do your own steering wheel arrangement), That's welded to the 1" diameter which is what passes through the hole in the dash. Then reduces down to .750" diameter to pass through both the column support bearings (which are plastic inserts in steel tubes welded to the chassis). It then reduces to a spline for the first U/J.
Steve
No problem, Steve. Thanks for the info. It sounds like the SPA kit will work just fine...but I will check on the legality of it this week.
I am up late (1:45 AM) envisioning my GTR. I am making mental images of the assembly process and some of the impractical mods I would add...
Active Aero, Twin Turbo, N2O Blast, Carbon Fiber, Kevlar...
This is a great hobby...allbeit a little expensive. Had I known about the GTR earlier, I might not have my pilot's license!
-- Scott
Reno, NV
I am up late (1:45 AM) envisioning my GTR. I am making mental images of the assembly process and some of the impractical mods I would add...
Active Aero, Twin Turbo, N2O Blast, Carbon Fiber, Kevlar...
This is a great hobby...allbeit a little expensive. Had I known about the GTR earlier, I might not have my pilot's license!
-- Scott
Reno, NV
I'm sure someone has already posted this link earlier:
www.ogracing.com/eshop/home.asp?categ=164
This another type of hub with quick release. If you live in Sweden - Dalhems sells different kinds of hubs with snap off. Some of them fit directly with MOMO, OMP and other steering wheels as well.
Personally (when my savings has increased from the current level) I'm thinking of mounting this display directly on the steering wheel:
www.lascom.co.nz/my-chron.htm
And then use either a steering wheel with built in, or after market, two buttons to control directional indicators and horn.
There by not having to mount to many dials on the dash.
www.ogracing.com/eshop/home.asp?categ=164
This another type of hub with quick release. If you live in Sweden - Dalhems sells different kinds of hubs with snap off. Some of them fit directly with MOMO, OMP and other steering wheels as well.
Personally (when my savings has increased from the current level) I'm thinking of mounting this display directly on the steering wheel:
www.lascom.co.nz/my-chron.htm
And then use either a steering wheel with built in, or after market, two buttons to control directional indicators and horn.
There by not having to mount to many dials on the dash.
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