Camber adjustment
Discussion
Hi,
I've been trying to sort out the alignment on my car today. I've run into a bit of a problem with the camber. I can't seem to achieve enough adjustment in the top ball joint at the front to get more than 8mm of camber (about 0.91 degrees). This is a little short of the 1 degree minimum stated in the manual.
Has anyone else had this problem? I'm pretty sure that the front suspension is built correctly with everything on the correct way up. It self centres when driving and all the bolts are the correct length and it looks just like everyone elses and the build manual...apart from the camber.
I've been trying to sort out the alignment on my car today. I've run into a bit of a problem with the camber. I can't seem to achieve enough adjustment in the top ball joint at the front to get more than 8mm of camber (about 0.91 degrees). This is a little short of the 1 degree minimum stated in the manual.
Has anyone else had this problem? I'm pretty sure that the front suspension is built correctly with everything on the correct way up. It self centres when driving and all the bolts are the correct length and it looks just like everyone elses and the build manual...apart from the camber.

You don't say what it is that is preventing the adjustment.
Probably you have screwed the ball joint all the way into the top link.
I think I remember this from another thread and the solution was machining off the end of the top link.
You may achive the same by machining the lock nut thinner.
Don't rush into this unless the factory tell you to or you find the thread where someone else has been told to do it.
Steve
Probably you have screwed the ball joint all the way into the top link.
I think I remember this from another thread and the solution was machining off the end of the top link.
You may achive the same by machining the lock nut thinner.
Don't rush into this unless the factory tell you to or you find the thread where someone else has been told to do it.
Steve
Dave
We had the same problem, and here's how we solved it.
Photos 159 to 163.
http://home.comcast.net/~rosenracing4/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-679182.html
However, I think you can also do it by just using one locknut, putting the locknut on the outside, making sure that you have a good, flat, and weldfree surface for the locknut to come up against.
Jack
We had the same problem, and here's how we solved it.
Photos 159 to 163.
http://home.comcast.net/~rosenracing4/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-679182.html
However, I think you can also do it by just using one locknut, putting the locknut on the outside, making sure that you have a good, flat, and weldfree surface for the locknut to come up against.
Jack
That's exactly what's happening. I've got the locknut between the top ball joint and the wishbone. There isn't a lot of thread sticking out the other side of the wishbone with my 0.9 degrees but I'm sure that when I screw it in there will be more.
Also saw your picture's, Jack, where you've coated and painted the ball joints. Just notice than mine have gone a nice shade of rust in the last week or so...
I guess that pulling the whole thing apart, painting and realigning is a fun job for a wet Sunday.
Also saw your picture's, Jack, where you've coated and painted the ball joints. Just notice than mine have gone a nice shade of rust in the last week or so...
I guess that pulling the whole thing apart, painting and realigning is a fun job for a wet Sunday.Took it all apart today. Discovered that the problem was entirely due to manufacturing tolerances... The thread runout on the balljoint was a little rough and the combination of wishbones/chassis I have are maybe a fraction bigger than others. Cleaning up the thread and winding the locking nut up a bit tighter I was able to get 1.5-2 turns more movement on it which was plenty to give me the extra movement I needed to achieve 1.5 degrees. Happyness.
It would be nice if Ultima shaved a little bit off the wishbone length. It would make life a lot easier for adjusting the camber. AFAICS there is virtually no room for adding more camber should you so desire. Though I guess with 18" wheels and low profile tyres that's not really going to be needed.
It would be nice if Ultima shaved a little bit off the wishbone length. It would make life a lot easier for adjusting the camber. AFAICS there is virtually no room for adding more camber should you so desire. Though I guess with 18" wheels and low profile tyres that's not really going to be needed.
Dave.
Are you ready for the next bit of good news.
Ultima has such confidence in their welding and manufacturing of the front suspension and associated parts, that there is no adjustment for caster. Let's hope that your car is not pulling to one side. I've done a little creative twisting of the upper ball joints to help mine.
Rose joints anyone?
Jack
Are you ready for the next bit of good news.
Ultima has such confidence in their welding and manufacturing of the front suspension and associated parts, that there is no adjustment for caster. Let's hope that your car is not pulling to one side. I've done a little creative twisting of the upper ball joints to help mine.
Rose joints anyone?
Jack
USCANAM said:
Dave.
Are you ready for the next bit of good news.
Heh. Heh. I'd got there already. Spent a chunk of the last month sorting camber and caster on a 3rd gen Camaro to de-Americanize it (only to discover that some idiot has bent the LH A frame and subframe mount - time for a new fabricated one to get shipped over
). Realised that the Ultima doesn't have anything like the same level of adjustment as standard...(not many sportscars seem to have the same configurability as a 3rd gen F-body though - I'm impressed!) Not in a position to try the car with the new setup till the paint (and the roads) dry a bit. When I last drove it didn't pull at all...though it did seem keen to follow the general traffic/truck lines round a few corners. I guess that's what tramlining is all about. Getting the correct camber will probably reduce this I think.
Rose joints on the back I'd figured was probably a good idea from peoples comments on bush wear. On the front sounds great from a configurability standpoint but it's going to be a nightmare on the wrists in normal road driving???
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