Dry sump options - LS Engines
Discussion
Hi All, just wondering if anyone had any experience of the Aviaid dry sump pumps. I am looking at fitting their LS-A option for my LS2 engine. It uses existing oil pump for pressure but has a two port scavenge pump to guarantee oil supply. It works along side standard air con and alternator.
http://aviaid.com/pdfs/115-complete_listing_of_wet...
http://aviaid.com/pdfs/115-complete_listing_of_wet...
I run the avaid pump you are looking at and I have never had a problem with it on the street or track. I use a ARE pan and not a drop of oil can be found anywhere on the engine. The pan that ARE provided was changed for the Ultima. all the fittings are on the drivers (U.S.) side and there are now no fittings not in use. Before there where fittings on the oppisite side that had to be pluged. The two things that will cause you a little grief is the fitting off the front of the pan, intake from the supply tank gets a little tight to install. Once its in place not a problem. The second small issue is the supply tank, kind of a round peg in a square hole. my buddy and I fabbed one up that is square and sets right in the forward corner of the engine compartment. We also installed a Oberg filter on top of the tank its very low profile. The oil comes in the side of the Oberg and is filtered and ejected down into the tank. One of the things I added was a glass level tube on the side of the tank that allows me to see the level of the oil without a dip stick. Good luck with your project I think it is a very wise investment for this car. I keep reading about folks losing main bearings in the old style SBCs guess what folks thats lack of oil pressure and thats caused by a wet sump system designed in 1954 when the only thing that turned at over a G was an airplane. Lee
ROWDYRENAULT said:
I run the avaid pump you are looking at and I have never had a problem with it on the street or track. I use a ARE pan and not a drop of oil can be found anywhere on the engine. The pan that ARE provided was changed for the Ultima. all the fittings are on the drivers (U.S.) side and there are now no fittings not in use. Before there where fittings on the oppisite side that had to be pluged. The two things that will cause you a little grief is the fitting off the front of the pan, intake from the supply tank gets a little tight to install. Once its in place not a problem. The second small issue is the supply tank, kind of a round peg in a square hole. my buddy and I fabbed one up that is square and sets right in the forward corner of the engine compartment. We also installed a Oberg filter on top of the tank its very low profile. The oil comes in the side of the Oberg and is filtered and ejected down into the tank. One of the things I added was a glass level tube on the side of the tank that allows me to see the level of the oil without a dip stick. Good luck with your project I think it is a very wise investment for this car. I keep reading about folks losing main bearings in the old style SBCs guess what folks thats lack of oil pressure and thats caused by a wet sump system designed in 1954 when the only thing that turned at over a G was an airplane. Lee
Lee, have you got any pics of the tank and where its installed?If you want to drop the engine and get a lower CofG then I'd use this one from Daily...
http://www.daileyengineering.com/ls_deep_pan.htm
This unit will mean you can drop the engine 2", that makes a massive difference to you C of G...
http://www.daileyengineering.com/ls_deep_pan.htm
This unit will mean you can drop the engine 2", that makes a massive difference to you C of G...
GTRCLIVE said:
If you want to drop the engine and get a lower CofG then I'd use this one from Daily...
http://www.daileyengineering.com/ls_deep_pan.htm
This unit will mean you can drop the engine 2", that makes a massive difference to you C of G...
Or you could take a pan from a Pontiac, at least that's what they told me when I got my LS engine with nonstandard oilpan. I thought that was quite low too.http://www.daileyengineering.com/ls_deep_pan.htm
This unit will mean you can drop the engine 2", that makes a massive difference to you C of G...
The std pan fitted to a LS1/2/3/7 Crate motors from GM is a Corvette and as far as I know that's the shortest pan GM do.. The Daily pan is actually only 4.5" from crank centre line to bottom of the pan. A Std LS7 is 7" and that's the same as a Std Corvette with a LS1 motor as I have both of these sumps in my garage. So The 2.5" more clearance is great in one way but the limiting factor to lower the motor now is the gearbox bell-housing not the sump. Seeing as the drive shaft difference in height is 2.5" std lowering the engine 2" now brings that closer to parallel, and means less movement of the cv joints and there fore less power loss. less cv joint movement also means less grease being thrown about the place which I know is a complaint about which many owners have issues....
Yes this cnversion for a LS motor is not cheap, but I see it as a great way to improve the handeling and a few other issues...
Yes this cnversion for a LS motor is not cheap, but I see it as a great way to improve the handeling and a few other issues...
i have the ARE dry sump kit on my ls6 and its very good, altho expensive to buy all the bits etc. mine prob stands me at near £2.5k with the twin oil coolers,remote filter, external tank, hoses etc etc. I did go for the shiny anodised fittings which bumped the price up. quite easy to fit to any LS block.
Thanks for that Clive, I hadn't seen any other pans with an integral sump pump other than the one listed below.
http://www.harrop.com.au/eng_detail.php?prod=99-AS...
i lkie the idea of integral as it removes 3 or 4 lines, and half a dozen fittings and points of failure.
Ryan
http://www.harrop.com.au/eng_detail.php?prod=99-AS...
i lkie the idea of integral as it removes 3 or 4 lines, and half a dozen fittings and points of failure.
Ryan
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