Longer Gas Struts Rear Canopy
Discussion
As Steve says... When building I had a slight incident and lost hold of the rear clip when trial fitting - result broke one side and had to rebond the hinge fitting back in, because the clip hits the chassis. You may be able to clear it more, but another limiting factor (for me anyway) is with the rear towing eye that is fixed to the bottom chassis rail.
The clip is limited in travel by rules in England that require the emergencey tail lights be visible from behind with the rear hood up. Thus the factory limits the angle by installing short gas struts. I have moded my GTR by eliminating the gas struts and installing a rod that is pinned in place when the hood is up so that the hood is prohibited from falling either closed or beyond center to further opened where it would make contact with the frame and life would get ugly. The convience of working on the car with the hood nearly verticle is way to convienant for me to ever go back to the factory strut. I tried early on to find a strut that had a longer throw to allow the hood to open further but you get into a geometry problem quickly. If anyone has solved the problem and come up with a gas strut and a change in mount point that will allow the hood to go verticle or near verticle I am all ears. Lee
and here is another idea for you..

relocating the strut mount is the easiest option... wheel off clip shut, (strut compressed I know that will be a pain) and find the lowest point on the arch it will mount to... I would put a plate each side to strengthen the attatchment as so close to the edge too.
Dom

relocating the strut mount is the easiest option... wheel off clip shut, (strut compressed I know that will be a pain) and find the lowest point on the arch it will mount to... I would put a plate each side to strengthen the attatchment as so close to the edge too.
Dom
Just did this to my GTR and I'm kicking myself for not doing it 10 years ago.
The photo of the yellow car above has the ends of the struts located at the bottom corner of the wheel house and....the front of the rear upper a arm bushing.
I kept the bottom of the strut at the rear of the upper a arm bushings and the upper end is 3 inches from the bottom edge and 2.5 inches from the front edge of the wheel house. This allows the engine cover to open all the way, within 1/2 inch of the ground.
The photo of the yellow car above has the ends of the struts located at the bottom corner of the wheel house and....the front of the rear upper a arm bushing.
I kept the bottom of the strut at the rear of the upper a arm bushings and the upper end is 3 inches from the bottom edge and 2.5 inches from the front edge of the wheel house. This allows the engine cover to open all the way, within 1/2 inch of the ground.
k wright said:
Just did this to my GTR and I'm kicking myself for not doing it 10 years ago.
The photo of the yellow car above has the ends of the struts located at the bottom corner of the wheel house and....the front of the rear upper a arm bushing.
I kept the bottom of the strut at the rear of the upper a arm bushings and the upper end is 3 inches from the bottom edge and 2.5 inches from the front edge of the wheel house. This allows the engine cover to open all the way, within 1/2 inch of the ground.
Do you have a picture you can post? Did you relocate both ends of the strut or only the top end? Did you install any plates for support since the strut mount is close to the edge?The photo of the yellow car above has the ends of the struts located at the bottom corner of the wheel house and....the front of the rear upper a arm bushing.
I kept the bottom of the strut at the rear of the upper a arm bushings and the upper end is 3 inches from the bottom edge and 2.5 inches from the front edge of the wheel house. This allows the engine cover to open all the way, within 1/2 inch of the ground.
I finished with this mod, and it's definitely worth doing. One thing to watch out for is that the new location of the nipple can interfere with the rear tire. I cut off the excess of the threaded side of the nipple to ensure good clearance. 3.0" from the bottom and 2.5" from the front edge seems to be the ideal new position. I left the lower end of the strut at its original location.
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