Feedback through speakers. what is the best solution - Car
Discussion
Hi all,
Just updated all my ICE and with that I have put a vibe a3 amp in and since that I now have feedback through the speakers.
Currently running 8awg from the battery to the rear and then into a junction where 10awg goes to the amp and 8awg goes to the sub amp. I've been told if I upgrade to 4awg this will help. But tonight I found out that there is 0awg.
Would I benefit from 0awg over 4awg?
Would I need to upgrade my fuse?
Would I need a ground isolating unit for the amp power cable?
Is this all likely to help? My cables are completely split the power is left, speakers are right.
Just updated all my ICE and with that I have put a vibe a3 amp in and since that I now have feedback through the speakers.
Currently running 8awg from the battery to the rear and then into a junction where 10awg goes to the amp and 8awg goes to the sub amp. I've been told if I upgrade to 4awg this will help. But tonight I found out that there is 0awg.
Would I benefit from 0awg over 4awg?
Would I need to upgrade my fuse?
Would I need a ground isolating unit for the amp power cable?
Is this all likely to help? My cables are completely split the power is left, speakers are right.
Feedback is caused when some of the output signal gets picked up by the input stage and reamplified. It's hard to imagine how this could happen with a digital input such as a CD player or even an FM radio, so perhaps there are some 'microphonic' components on the circuit board of the Vibe amp. Changing the speaker cable will have no effect on feedback (unless we are talking at cross purposes and you mean something else). I'm talking about the painful 'squealing' noise that you sometimes get at live concerts if the microphone is turned up too high.
In short, return the faulty Vibe amp IMHO. You could confirm this by temporarily mounting the amp outside the car.
In short, return the faulty Vibe amp IMHO. You could confirm this by temporarily mounting the amp outside the car.
Edited by OldSkoolRS on Tuesday 8th May 22:45
So it's an earth hum rather than feedback then I guess? Might be worth looking at improving your earthing and checking input cables. It could be an earth loop, but not sure if this effects ICE (it does effect home AV gear sometimes). So while the issue could be cable related, it's not so much the size of the cables more the way they are connected/screened.
I'm not big into ICE myself, just into home AV and used to build amplifiers for a living (MOD stuff, nothing exciting). However I would question the 1300 watt rating. Is that RMS and into some ultra low resisitance such as 2 ohm? I've played guitar through a Marshall 100 watt amp and it blew me backwards just about (like that scene on Back to the Future if you've ever seen it
).
I'm not big into ICE myself, just into home AV and used to build amplifiers for a living (MOD stuff, nothing exciting). However I would question the 1300 watt rating. Is that RMS and into some ultra low resisitance such as 2 ohm? I've played guitar through a Marshall 100 watt amp and it blew me backwards just about (like that scene on Back to the Future if you've ever seen it
).Earthing problem most likely - or poor quality equipment.
Try changing the gain on the amp (assuming your using RCA connectors and not high-level input) to get to the point where there is no hum audible.
I had this problem with a Sony HU and a JBL amp, never got to the bottom of it really, even after running extra earth wires, expensive interconnects, earth loop traps, power caps etc... Figured eventually that the HU was just badly built and was allowing noise down that was similar in amplitude to the signal, and the only way to get rid was to turn the amp right down, which kind of defeated the object of the exercise.
Try changing the gain on the amp (assuming your using RCA connectors and not high-level input) to get to the point where there is no hum audible.
I had this problem with a Sony HU and a JBL amp, never got to the bottom of it really, even after running extra earth wires, expensive interconnects, earth loop traps, power caps etc... Figured eventually that the HU was just badly built and was allowing noise down that was similar in amplitude to the signal, and the only way to get rid was to turn the amp right down, which kind of defeated the object of the exercise.
OldSkoolRS said:
However I would question the 1300 watt rating. Is that RMS and into some ultra low resisitance such as 2 ohm? I've played guitar through a Marshall 100 watt amp and it blew me backwards just about (like that scene on Back to the Future if you've ever seen it ).
The hifi world got its act together years ago by quoting power in the form "X watts per channel into 8 ohms" so there was a consistant reference. ).Marketing people have to inflate everything nowadays so they resort to peak music power and add all the channels together.
Been told today that I defiantly need to upgrade my cable. The chap said when looking for the cable you need to look for a certain type otherwise you might find they have no flex but at the time he couldn't remember off the top of his head what it was called. Does anyone know how to distinguish whether it is flexible or not.
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