AV equipment in sideboard, how hot is too hot?
Discussion
I've recently got a nice big G Plan sideboard to use as a TV stand and AV cabinet. I've got AV repeaters and it all looks great and works well with the doors shut so everything is hidden. To start with I just cut a hole in the back for wires but it was getting a bit warm in there, I've now drilled 40 30mm holes in the back in a grid formation and it is better but it's still warm enough to prove some bread dough in there. I'm a bit paranoid so have taken to leaving the doors open, which defeats the object somewhat.
How hot is too hot, should I just take the whole back off that bit of the sideboard? Should I be looking to fit a fan?
In the cupboard is a Sony Receiver, Sky HD box, Playstation 3 and Sonos Connect.
Thanks
How hot is too hot, should I just take the whole back off that bit of the sideboard? Should I be looking to fit a fan?
In the cupboard is a Sony Receiver, Sky HD box, Playstation 3 and Sonos Connect.
Thanks
Heat (well, excessive heat) certainly doesn't help electronics, you're right to be concerned.
I would suggest the best solution is to install one or two silent-running brushless fans in the back of the sideboard, that blow outwards and extract the heat? Like the ones in PC's.
And worse than excessive heat, 'heat cycles' are the thing that usually eventually causes electronic component failure. So, if you have decent, expensive gear, the best thing to do is leave it all switched on all the time.
I have a set of Arcam Hi-Fi separates that are now 14 years old. Apart from when I've moved house, they've been left permanently on, and are still going well.
I would suggest the best solution is to install one or two silent-running brushless fans in the back of the sideboard, that blow outwards and extract the heat? Like the ones in PC's.
And worse than excessive heat, 'heat cycles' are the thing that usually eventually causes electronic component failure. So, if you have decent, expensive gear, the best thing to do is leave it all switched on all the time.
I have a set of Arcam Hi-Fi separates that are now 14 years old. Apart from when I've moved house, they've been left permanently on, and are still going well.
davepoth said:
The heat itself should be enough to get the air flowing through - drill the same number of holes through the bottom of the unit and each shelf, and you should get a noticeable breeze through the enclosure.
It would be slightly better to drill holes on the lower shelf at the front through the bottom, this will encourage air to flow through the cabinet (across the equipment), drilling them at the back will have less effect as the air will just come in and go straight out!I had a cabinet made for my tv to stand on, housing a Virgin V+ box, PS3 and Mac Mini as well as space for DVDs etc. Because of my concerns about heat, I specified that it should be entirely backless. Even then, if I run any of the devices on their own then it needs one of the front doors open a bit to prevent the air in the cabinet getting too hot.
Ultimately I doubt it's going to be feasible to keep the heat down in an enclosed unit without forced convection (i.e. a fan) and a proper flow of air, so it might be that the exhaust vents even with a fan and some inlet holes the opposite side are insufficient. Depends how big the cabinet is really.
Ultimately I doubt it's going to be feasible to keep the heat down in an enclosed unit without forced convection (i.e. a fan) and a proper flow of air, so it might be that the exhaust vents even with a fan and some inlet holes the opposite side are insufficient. Depends how big the cabinet is really.
davepoth said:
The heat itself should be enough to get the air flowing through - drill the same number of holes through the bottom of the unit and each shelf, and you should get a noticeable breeze through the enclosure.
That didn't work with my cabinet.....that was what was tried first but ended up needing fans.The problem is if you go the fan route they need to be the back needs to be sealed except where the fans are to make them more effective. At least that is what we had to do.
Having said all that I have a Bryston amp which gets very hot so mine may have been an exceptional problem.
Get a couple of Laptop coolers and sit the sky box and ps3 on those, powered off a USB hub.
It is a great little trick for keeping SkyHD boxes cool which I now use on all my installs.
You issue is less heat and more air movement, if you can get it moving past the hardware then that is a lot of the battle won.
V.
It is a great little trick for keeping SkyHD boxes cool which I now use on all my installs.
You issue is less heat and more air movement, if you can get it moving past the hardware then that is a lot of the battle won.
V.
Thanks for the advice guys it's not that bad in there to be honest, I may take more of the back off to see how we go before getting fans. There is a fair bit of breathing space in there...
Sorry about the crappy pics and ignore the wiring mess as I start redecorating and channeling all the speaker cables next week so it will all be coming out.
Sorry about the crappy pics and ignore the wiring mess as I start redecorating and channeling all the speaker cables next week so it will all be coming out.
I've recently installed my av unit with all of the devices concealed and occasionally its been hot enough to cook the Christmas dinner! I originally just cut circular holes at the back which did nothing so I've just fitted two 60 mm brushless fans on each shelf connected to an Ac dc adapter to extract the hot air. So far its working pretty well.
We build a lot of these cabinets - air holes in the bottom and either backless or multiple holes in back.
The theory is the hot air vents out the back dragging the cooler air from the bottom, touch wood we have never had any problems. Also make sure its not too close to the back wall - a good 50mm away
The theory is the hot air vents out the back dragging the cooler air from the bottom, touch wood we have never had any problems. Also make sure its not too close to the back wall - a good 50mm away
I have an open fronted (sshhh! Ikea) unit & the Xbox still gets pretty hot in there as the shelf isn't very deep. I'm thinking of mounting a PC type fan on the rear of the unit to draw the heat out, but need it to be powered by the USB of the Xbox so that is only comes on when the Xbox is on.
Having trouble finding one except DIY guides on YouTube.
Having trouble finding one except DIY guides on YouTube.
Nick Grant said:
Update from me, I've cut twice as many holes in the back of the sideboard and it's fine now
I notice that in your picture, you appear to have another Sony device on top of your amp.Assuming that has no vents in the top of it, I would relocate it beneath the amp - or place it on another shelf if available.
At elevated temperatures, capacitor failure rate increases exponentially - and most capacitors are rated at 85 deg. C which might sound a lot - but it doesn't leave a huge margin for running at well above ambient temperatures.
My Hifi/AV system is in a cabinet, the amplifiers alone produce about a kilowatt when pushed,, so produce a lot of heat, there are a few other boxes producing heat, I made two large fan trays with five large Papst computer type cooling fans in each.
They are silent and use lump in plug power supplies, anyone could make them, they produce enough air movement that even on a hot summers day I have no heat issues.
They are silent and use lump in plug power supplies, anyone could make them, they produce enough air movement that even on a hot summers day I have no heat issues.
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