Craving more bass...
Discussion
I have a bose sounddock, probably 5 years old now, and I swear when I first got it one of its more impressive fearures was the bass it produced considering the biggest speakers are I think 2 inches in diameter!!I listen to a lot of dance music, including down tempo/chilled etc so lets call it electronic music with deep bass lines. Is there a bassier equivalent on the market? Maybe I am asking too much for such a small device.
OldSkoolRS said:
How about one of these 
:
It's called a JTR Orbit shifter LFU: The owner imported it into the UK for about 3k as there isn't a UK dealer for it.
Maybe one of Tom Danley's Tapped Horns ? Something like a TH812 would do the job ?? 110dB for 1W @ 1m with 16000 watts max power handling.......... equates to over 150dB :It's called a JTR Orbit shifter LFU: The owner imported it into the UK for about 3k as there isn't a UK dealer for it.
http://www.danleysoundlabs.com/products/subwoofers...
NIIKME said:
I have a bose sounddock, probably 5 years old now, and I swear when I first got it one of its more impressive fearures was the bass it produced considering the biggest speakers are I think 2 inches in diameter!!I listen to a lot of dance music, including down tempo/chilled etc so lets call it electronic music with deep bass lines. Is there a bassier equivalent on the market? Maybe I am asking too much for such a small device.
Do you have a budget in mind ?B&W Zeppelin Mini £300 http://www.johnlewis.com/b-w-zeppelin-mini-ipod-sp...
Dennon Piccolo £400 http://www.johnlewis.com/denon-piccolo-wireless-ip...
B&W Zeppelin £500 http://www.johnlewis.com/b-w-zeppelin-air-ipod-spe...
Hmmm......
I think if you heard real bass you would have a different opinion.
The Bose has apparent bass, a big lift in the mid bass area but practically zero real BASS.
Real BASS is difficult to produce in most rooms. Try a 2nd user REL Sub from eBAY, most can produce real BASS. Positioning isn't overly important as long as you keep the crossover point sub 100hz.
The room is everything. I've tried some serious subs that have sounded dire, i do have a terrible room though.
Best sub for my room i ever tried was a JR149, i think, late 70s. Just worked and sounded great.
Ugly as sin and was banned by the wife of the time.
Lots you can do to fix bass. Just had some 6mm steel plates cut for my Rega Jura's. Inch each side wider and 2 at the back. Weight around 6kg and really feel like the speakers are locked down. Bass is so much tighter. Cost to make £40 tops, similar products i could find were US made and $275.
Drifted off topic a tad, but bass is to do with air movement, which means big drivers, (can be mitigated by huge cone excursions but will be far less accurate). A case where bigger is ALWAYS better. (Watch how far a 15" cone moves, almost imperceptible whereas a modern 6" HiFi speaker needs to move an inch to get close, which it actually can't anyway. Perception again. SO back to Bose!
I think if you heard real bass you would have a different opinion.
The Bose has apparent bass, a big lift in the mid bass area but practically zero real BASS.
Real BASS is difficult to produce in most rooms. Try a 2nd user REL Sub from eBAY, most can produce real BASS. Positioning isn't overly important as long as you keep the crossover point sub 100hz.
The room is everything. I've tried some serious subs that have sounded dire, i do have a terrible room though.
Best sub for my room i ever tried was a JR149, i think, late 70s. Just worked and sounded great.
Ugly as sin and was banned by the wife of the time.
Lots you can do to fix bass. Just had some 6mm steel plates cut for my Rega Jura's. Inch each side wider and 2 at the back. Weight around 6kg and really feel like the speakers are locked down. Bass is so much tighter. Cost to make £40 tops, similar products i could find were US made and $275.
Drifted off topic a tad, but bass is to do with air movement, which means big drivers, (can be mitigated by huge cone excursions but will be far less accurate). A case where bigger is ALWAYS better. (Watch how far a 15" cone moves, almost imperceptible whereas a modern 6" HiFi speaker needs to move an inch to get close, which it actually can't anyway. Perception again. SO back to Bose!
Some Gump said:
f
king hell, epic hifi bearding here.
The bloke has a bose sounddock. What the hell would a massive hifi sub add to that? How would you even connect it?
OP, if your room allows it, I'd get a small seperates system. It'll be much better at pretty much everything.
Like the Denon Piccolo suggested earlier http://www.whathifi.com/review/denon-ceol-piccoloking hell, epic hifi bearding here. The bloke has a bose sounddock. What the hell would a massive hifi sub add to that? How would you even connect it?
OP, if your room allows it, I'd get a small seperates system. It'll be much better at pretty much everything.
£310ish with Denon's own speakers and a sub can be added if you feel the need.
Not sure I agree with the above statement but what has blown every other dock I have heard in to the weeds is the.............NAD Viso 1. Unbelievable piece of kit. For anyone of similar needs the NAD is for you. I have found basslines I never knew existed 
What's also amazing is how incredibly realistic a live performed track will sound - almost like you are at the concert!
What's also amazing is how incredibly realistic a live performed track will sound - almost like you are at the concert! 
Driller said:
3k for the sub? How much were the LCRs and amp?
Not sure. He was selling a £3k amp for a better one and had some pretty expensive Monitor Audio speakers(also for sale for something better). I guess you could say he's a bit of a bass head, but I think the rest of his system is pretty good I'm just going to upgrade my BK Monolith for a single 15" or 18" sealed sub with 3000 watt amp, but it's much smaller and more furniture like than the one on the picture I posted.
I missed out on the meeting last Sunday, but the AVforum guys were raving about this set up:
Those are 8 x 18" subwoofers driven by a total of 12000 watts.
These are the more modest stand alone units the 15" in the middle and the empty one is for an 18" which is what I'm fancying as an upgrade. Going to have one on home demo at some point to make sure it's worth the money:
Those are 8 x 18" subwoofers driven by a total of 12000 watts.
These are the more modest stand alone units the 15" in the middle and the empty one is for an 18" which is what I'm fancying as an upgrade. Going to have one on home demo at some point to make sure it's worth the money:
There certainly is a DIY sub department of AVForums. The guy behind these new 'Ultimate Subwoofer Company' subs is well known on the DIY section, but has moved to commercial production with these speakers.
Here's the DIY section:
http://www.avforums.com/forums/diy-subwoofer-build...
Here's the DIY section:
http://www.avforums.com/forums/diy-subwoofer-build...
OldSkoolRS said:
Those are 8 x 18" subwoofers driven by a total of 12000 watts.
To misquote Frank Costin "Save me , oh Lord, from the statement: driven by a total of 12000 watts". Only marketing departments add the output of individual amps to make systems appear much larger than they are. They even use PMPO to inflate even more.BlueMR2 said:
Alot of car audio enthusiasts model and build their own sub boxes however this seems rare in the home audio market, or is there a build your own sub enclosure black market that i haven't heard of.
You should have a look at Wilmslow Audio. In the mid '80s I built a pair of LS3/5a mini monitors using one of their kits and they are still providing sterling service although they have emigrated to New Zealand.I love internet forums.
Avforums - some bloke who spends a lot of time on the internet can outdesign and outbuild speaker companies to make the ultimate cabinet, which from the photo above has no internal bracing.
Bikeradar - buying handmade wheels off a bloke who spends a lot of time on the internet is a much better bet than buying wheels off a wheel company.
If ph joins in, we'll all end up extolling the virtues of dampers made by a bloke that sends a lot of time on the internet, as it'll yield much better results than buying some intrax or similar.
Avforums - some bloke who spends a lot of time on the internet can outdesign and outbuild speaker companies to make the ultimate cabinet, which from the photo above has no internal bracing.
Bikeradar - buying handmade wheels off a bloke who spends a lot of time on the internet is a much better bet than buying wheels off a wheel company.
If ph joins in, we'll all end up extolling the virtues of dampers made by a bloke that sends a lot of time on the internet, as it'll yield much better results than buying some intrax or similar.
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