Floor sanding - any experts here?
Discussion
I seem to recall my old man doing this years ago. All he did was sanded and stained it and it turned out fine (lasted about 10 years before he did it again I think).
My only advice would be to ensure that you get rid of ALL of the dust before staining!! It would be awful with a lovely new floor that sanded the skin on your feet for you whenever you took your shoes off!
My only advice would be to ensure that you get rid of ALL of the dust before staining!! It would be awful with a lovely new floor that sanded the skin on your feet for you whenever you took your shoes off!
We looked at getting our bedroom done, and thank the Lord that sanity prevailed and we got some men in to do it instead 
Cost us £20sqm, which seems to be the going rate. Obviously not for everyone, but the maths on time/effort/hiring the gear/cleaning everything up just didn't stack up for us.
Cost us £20sqm, which seems to be the going rate. Obviously not for everyone, but the maths on time/effort/hiring the gear/cleaning everything up just didn't stack up for us.
I got a quote from Mrsandless at the weekend which was very competitive and comes with a 5 year guarantee. I will be using them in about 4-5 weeks as it works out more cost effective for me than hiring a sander and putting in the hours of elbow grease.
Seems very impressive so far but will report back once I have actually had them do the work.
Seems very impressive so far but will report back once I have actually had them do the work.
Don't do it! I was coughing up dust for weeks afterwards despite my best efforts to keep the mask on. I was pleased with the finish though (wood dye then clear varnish) and its still in good shape 18 months on.
It's a job I would gladly pay for in the future. If doing it yourself make sure you don't hold the sander over one area to long (it's so tempting) - you don't see it at the time but once stained it shows up marks.
The inevitable has now happened though and SWMBO wants a carpet down instead (has to be cream despite the black dog)
It's a job I would gladly pay for in the future. If doing it yourself make sure you don't hold the sander over one area to long (it's so tempting) - you don't see it at the time but once stained it shows up marks.
The inevitable has now happened though and SWMBO wants a carpet down instead (has to be cream despite the black dog)
I've done my a few times. Prep is all important. Make sure all nails are well hammered down, nothing sharp sticking up. The most frustrating thing is the sandpaper ripping every 30secs because its caught on something. Try to put down a hard underseal on the wood before you varnish. Otherwish being soft pine it will dent and flex and then the varnish will just lift off easier and you'll have to do it again within 1-2 years. I filled all the gaps with a mix of sawdust and PVA glue. Mix it up into a nice tunamayo like paste a scrape it between the floor boards. This then sets solid and seals all the gaps.
Worth the sweat, swearing, dust and expense!
Worth the sweat, swearing, dust and expense!
As said above, if you are doing it yourself prep is the most vital part.
I did a terrace house size room in a weekend.
Sand diagonally across the boards for a better/ even finish.
Once I had finished sanding and cleaned up the dust I used masking tape to create a geometric pattern then painted the shapes. Finally varnished it and it looked the tits!
Worst part of the job was changing the sand paper on the drum! Time & Time again. So make sure ALL nails etc are hammered down!
I did a terrace house size room in a weekend.
Sand diagonally across the boards for a better/ even finish.
Once I had finished sanding and cleaned up the dust I used masking tape to create a geometric pattern then painted the shapes. Finally varnished it and it looked the tits!
Worst part of the job was changing the sand paper on the drum! Time & Time again. So make sure ALL nails etc are hammered down!
We've done this several times. As others have said, prep is the most important thing, get your nails knocked down.
Then the sander, most places have drum sanders these should be avoided if possible. Try and get a belt sander as they are easier to get a good finish with.
Something like..
http://www.floorsanding2u.co.uk/
They make a bit less mess aswell
The last few we've done we've used dulux trade diamond glaze as it is pretty hardwearing and easy to put on. Make sure for high traffic areas you get three or four coats...
If you are all ready you should be able to do the whole downstairs of a typical inter war semi inc hall, sitting and dining room in a day..
Then the sander, most places have drum sanders these should be avoided if possible. Try and get a belt sander as they are easier to get a good finish with.
Something like..
http://www.floorsanding2u.co.uk/
They make a bit less mess aswell
The last few we've done we've used dulux trade diamond glaze as it is pretty hardwearing and easy to put on. Make sure for high traffic areas you get three or four coats...
If you are all ready you should be able to do the whole downstairs of a typical inter war semi inc hall, sitting and dining room in a day..
I'll comment on the staining side of the query- wood takes up stain at different rates depending on the angle of the grain to the face. On something as long as a floorboard the angle will probably vary somewhat and you could end up with a patchy effect.
Much better to use a coloured varnish.
The newer water based, quick drying varnishes are better, harder and less smelly that polyurethane or spirit based types.
Much better to use a coloured varnish.
The newer water based, quick drying varnishes are better, harder and less smelly that polyurethane or spirit based types.
wusses, teh lot of you, going with belt sanders.
Take a pump action 12 bore, or preferably a 4 bore if you can find one.
Load with salt and blast the old boards clean.
If you load with ordinary shot you'll also end up with nice clean new looking floorboards, but only after the expense of buying new ones.
BABOOM, it's the way forwards
Take a pump action 12 bore, or preferably a 4 bore if you can find one.
Load with salt and blast the old boards clean.
If you load with ordinary shot you'll also end up with nice clean new looking floorboards, but only after the expense of buying new ones.
BABOOM, it's the way forwards
rich_vw said:
Just another quick one on the above. I've read already the mixing the saw-dust with some PVA is a good way of filling small gaps / holes and the like but what sort of texture am I looking to achieve from the mixture?
Bear in mind that the mix, when set and stained or varnished won't necessarily be the same colour as the surrounding wood (if that is what you are trying to achieve. Experiment first if you want to be sure. Also bear in mind that PVA is an effective surface sealer, if the bare wood changes colour when the finish is supplied, any areas that have had PVA in contact with them will remain the colour that they are, and that can look quite odd. I suggest you use a purpose made wood filler, these are available in many different colours, if you can't find one exactly the same, use a slightly darker one rather than a light one.
I'm trying the fill the joint between some of the boards. To enable the placement of pipes and cables under the floor we cut the T&G joint, this has now left a gap between the boards which I'd like to fill mainly to stop any potential draft coming up. There is also a couple of small holes which I will fill at the same time.
The joint is around the thickness of a circular saw blade, what would be the best method for filling?
The joint is around the thickness of a circular saw blade, what would be the best method for filling?
rich_vw said:
I'm trying the fill the joint between some of the boards. To enable the placement of pipes and cables under the floor we cut the T&G joint, this has now left a gap between the boards which I'd like to fill mainly to stop any potential draft coming up. There is also a couple of small holes which I will fill at the same time.
The joint is around the thickness of a circular saw blade, what would be the best method for filling?
Lecol 7500 (5kg) floor filler is what i use. Usually I will use it with the dust from sanding on a 50 grit belt, the mix being slightly sloppy.The joint is around the thickness of a circular saw blade, what would be the best method for filling?
Then i will mix a wetter mix up usually with 80 dust and fill over the top and then resand the floor.
Lecol is great as it will be dry within half an hour maximum but make sure you are in a well ventilated room and wearing a mask otherwise you will be off with the fairies somewhere!!!
Bona also do what is called a 'mix and fill' but for me it takes far to long to dry.
Note: make sure the board is secure if there is any movement the filler will pop out over a period of time.
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