Tongue and groove floor boards
Tongue and groove floor boards
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Globs

Original Poster:

13,847 posts

255 months

Sunday 22nd May 2011
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Anyone know how much gap to leave between new boards?
Thanks in advance!

MrV

2,748 posts

252 months

Sunday 22nd May 2011
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None smile

Are you just replacing a few damaged ones or the whole floor ?if the latter you will need to hire some flooring clamps

http://www.hss.com/g/4420/Floor-Board-Clamp.html

Globs

Original Poster:

13,847 posts

255 months

Sunday 22nd May 2011
quotequote all
MrV said:
None smile

Are you just replacing a few damaged ones or the whole floor ?if the latter you will need to hire some flooring clamps

http://www.hss.com/g/4420/Floor-Board-Clamp.html
I had a suspicion it was none - the gaps in the old floor must be from wood shrinkage then yes?

It's a whole new floor. It will have carpet etc on top - possible a shower in one corner..


Flintstone

8,644 posts

271 months

Sunday 22nd May 2011
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Why t&g? I thought floorboards just butted up, apart from decorative/laminate type stuff.

mgtony

4,166 posts

214 months

Sunday 22nd May 2011
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Why solid wood? Why not 240x60cm flooring grade t&g chipboard? there would be minimal movement, quicker to fit with less nailing/screwing. smile

Globs

Original Poster:

13,847 posts

255 months

Sunday 22nd May 2011
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Because I don't like chipboard and hear it squeaks wink

Terisis

131 posts

182 months

Sunday 22nd May 2011
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If you screw it down, it shouldn't squeak. The squeak is caused by the board rubbing up and down along the nails as you walk over it.

Motorwaymick

88 posts

211 months

Sunday 22nd May 2011
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I tried screwing mine down but the wood underneath is so soft screws just strip it before they are fully tightened, bloody new build rubbish.

Slagathore

6,184 posts

216 months

Sunday 22nd May 2011
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Carpet in a room with a shower?

Would be a lot easier to just stick some boards down. They shouldn't move is screwed in properly.

Marine ply might be better? The carpet will absorb the condensation/moisture in the air when the shower is in use?




Globs

Original Poster:

13,847 posts

255 months

Sunday 22nd May 2011
quotequote all
Slagathore said:
Carpet in a room with a shower?

Would be a lot easier to just stick some boards down. They shouldn't move is screwed in properly.

Marine ply might be better? The carpet will absorb the condensation/moisture in the air when the shower is in use?
With a room divider and a door - so not in the same room, but on the same floor smile
I was thinking of tiling the bathroom - I guess I need an extra sheet of marine ply over the top in there?

mrmaggit

10,146 posts

272 months

Sunday 22nd May 2011
quotequote all
Marine ply is for boats.

WBP is what you should be using in houses, unless you intend to float your house down the river, which, given the number of houses built on flood plains, is probably not a bad idea!

Slagathore

6,184 posts

216 months

Sunday 22nd May 2011
quotequote all
Globs said:
With a room divider and a door - so not in the same room, but on the same floor smile
I was thinking of tiling the bathroom - I guess I need an extra sheet of marine ply over the top in there?
Ahh, in that case, marine ply might be overkill. It's only because the carpet might get damp and rot the wood undernaath, but you shouldn't get that problem with tiles.

I'd be careful with tiling on that type of floor. The guy that done our bathroom appeared to do a good job initially, but a bit further down the line, movement in the floor has caused some of the grouting to crack and some tiles to move slightly. It's not major, but slightly annoying.

There is a correct way of doing it minimalise the movement, but off the tope of my head, I can't remember what it is. I'm sure someone on here will know?

I think you can also get the flexible grout, I think it's more expensive, but probably worth it.

ETA - Just Googled it because it was annoying me. Couple of useful links:

http://www.tilersforums.co.uk/tile-adhesive-grout-...

http://www.knaufdrywall.co.uk/files/HMKTGTRatnamLi...

Edited by Slagathore on Sunday 22 May 15:29

Slagathore

6,184 posts

216 months

Sunday 22nd May 2011
quotequote all
mrmaggit said:
Marine ply is for boats.

WBP is what you should be using in houses, unless you intend to float your house down the river, which, given the number of houses built on flood plains, is probably not a bad idea!
Balls!

I thought marine ply wasn't quite right, as the word marine would suggest!

Just had that in my head for some reason!

Globs

Original Poster:

13,847 posts

255 months

Sunday 22nd May 2011
quotequote all
I didn't realise there were alternates to marine or water soluble wink
I was sort of assuming any tiles would have to sit on a 6mm or thicker ply base to stop them cracking apart, when I eventually get around to that!

So what's the usual form for a tiled bathroom floor over floorboards?
A membrane, ply and then the tiles or should something else be used?

mgtony

4,166 posts

214 months

Sunday 22nd May 2011
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If you are starting at bare floor joists, then the area that is going to be tiled you might aswell lay 18mm ply. Screw it down thoroughly. This will be better than floorboards, then ply, then tiles. Any thin ply on top of the flooring is liable to move. Putting ply down first will also keep the tiled floor level relatively low to match adjoining rooms/carpet.

Gingerbread Man

9,173 posts

237 months

Sunday 22nd May 2011
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If you're gong to tile on a floor. Be it a chipboard floor, or floor boards. You should put down a ply layer.

For a chipboard floor which is pretty solid and doesn't move, this ply can be quite thin as it'll protect the boards if you ever wish to take up the tiles.
If on a floor boarded room, then put a thicker ply down. Make sure any existing floorboards are well screwed down and mark any pipe/ cable runs. The ply will be there to brace the floor and decrease movement/ flex in it, so try to keep the sheets as big as possible. You'll need to screw down the ply ever 6" or so to minimise movement. 1.25" screws should do for the ply into the boards.

Globs

Original Poster:

13,847 posts

255 months

Sunday 22nd May 2011
quotequote all
It's got to be floor boards underneath as - erm - I'm not quite sure of the boundary of the bathroom yet (doh!) - it may vary quite a bit - so it'll be 10mm or 12.5mm waterproof ply by the sound of it.

Thanks for the info thumbup

Gingerbread Man

9,173 posts

237 months

Sunday 22nd May 2011
quotequote all
Globs said:
It's got to be floor boards underneath as - erm - I'm not quite sure of the boundary of the bathroom yet (doh!) - it may vary quite a bit - so it'll be 10mm or 12.5mm waterproof ply by the sound of it.

Thanks for the info thumbup
To be honest. The ply should never meet water. I know many a person puts 'waterproof' ply behind tiles etc.., but the water should never ever get through the tiles and grout. If it is, it'll blow the tiles from the ply surface. Make sure the job is a good one, and use normal ply. Simples.

Use flexible grout on the floor tiles.

Slagathore

6,184 posts

216 months

Sunday 22nd May 2011
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As said above, I'd go for at least 18mm ply.

Globs

Original Poster:

13,847 posts

255 months

Sunday 22nd May 2011
quotequote all
Slagathore said:
Cheers for this - the aquapanel stuff seems much better than ply and is still only 6mm thick, looks like I'll be seeking that out then!