How hard is it to put up a stud wall?
Discussion
Long one short, looking to rent an industrial unit which has a mezzanine floor. I need to put in an office for three people, so was thinking bit of framework (size of wood?) and some plasterboard, skim of plaster (?) and paint. Roof it the same way, or are suspended ceilings horrendously expensive?
Add a doorway and off we go. Obviously need to speak to planning with the local council, but apart from that, how hard does it have to be?
Guess I'm looking at 5m x 5m x 2.5m at the most.
Add a doorway and off we go. Obviously need to speak to planning with the local council, but apart from that, how hard does it have to be?
Guess I'm looking at 5m x 5m x 2.5m at the most.
Piece of cake.
Mark it all out on the floor first. Top and sole plates, end studs, then just put studs in at equal intervals. Noggins between the studs - I normally use more noggins than most guides say, doesn't do any harm and gives it more sturdiness.Once you're done nailing the timbers together and any door / window frames are in hang the plasterboard on one side, insulate it, box it in by hanging the plasterboard on the other side. don't be shy with the amount of nails you use but keep them evenly spaced and a good 5 inches apart. Get a plasterer to skim it and you'll never know it's a stud wall.
As you're needing a roof you can probably just assemble the frame on the floor and put it up when you've got it all assembled - do fix it to the floor properly though.
studs are vertical, noggins are horizontal, top plate just gets nailed to the ceiling, the bottom plate to the floor, obviously. Other than that it's hard to go wrong. The first one I did was off the back of some very brief advice on the net, and while I'm sure someone will be along soon with a different / better method they've always worked really well. The extra noggins (usually from offcuts of studs) make it feel super solid too.
Size wise I've used 2x4 and 2x6. Makes no odds. I've yet to build one with a roof so I'll get back to you on that - I move into my new unit in a few weeks and will be needing to make one myself
I'll probably just run some joists atop the top plate and board it out with plywood and plasterboard or ceiling tiles.
Mark it all out on the floor first. Top and sole plates, end studs, then just put studs in at equal intervals. Noggins between the studs - I normally use more noggins than most guides say, doesn't do any harm and gives it more sturdiness.Once you're done nailing the timbers together and any door / window frames are in hang the plasterboard on one side, insulate it, box it in by hanging the plasterboard on the other side. don't be shy with the amount of nails you use but keep them evenly spaced and a good 5 inches apart. Get a plasterer to skim it and you'll never know it's a stud wall.
As you're needing a roof you can probably just assemble the frame on the floor and put it up when you've got it all assembled - do fix it to the floor properly though.
studs are vertical, noggins are horizontal, top plate just gets nailed to the ceiling, the bottom plate to the floor, obviously. Other than that it's hard to go wrong. The first one I did was off the back of some very brief advice on the net, and while I'm sure someone will be along soon with a different / better method they've always worked really well. The extra noggins (usually from offcuts of studs) make it feel super solid too.
Size wise I've used 2x4 and 2x6. Makes no odds. I've yet to build one with a roof so I'll get back to you on that - I move into my new unit in a few weeks and will be needing to make one myself
I'll probably just run some joists atop the top plate and board it out with plywood and plasterboard or ceiling tiles. Edited by Stu R on Wednesday 25th May 13:29
Thanks for that Stu.
Sounds simple enough, what keeps the wall rigid if it isn't fixed between two existing block walls? I guess one end of the stud wall is fixed to the block wall, the other meets the other stud wall at 90 degrees and this holds the whole thing rigid enough? Especially with a ceiling?
Thinking of using stud timber to hold up the ceiling, i.e. the same size timber as used in the studs; plenty strong enough?
Sounds simple enough, what keeps the wall rigid if it isn't fixed between two existing block walls? I guess one end of the stud wall is fixed to the block wall, the other meets the other stud wall at 90 degrees and this holds the whole thing rigid enough? Especially with a ceiling?
Thinking of using stud timber to hold up the ceiling, i.e. the same size timber as used in the studs; plenty strong enough?
Have a look here http://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gypframe_me...
and buy it from here http://www.encon.co.uk/locations/
Metal stud and track is the way forward.
and buy it from here http://www.encon.co.uk/locations/
Metal stud and track is the way forward.
RVVUNM said:
Have a look here http://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gypframe_me...
and buy it from here http://www.encon.co.uk/locations/
Metal stud and track is the way forward.
Sorry to go off topic, but could I have your email address for the Caring with Cars event? I can't email through your profile.and buy it from here http://www.encon.co.uk/locations/
Metal stud and track is the way forward.
Also, if you are interested in the free advanced driving talk taking place during the day, could you let us know on the discussion forum here:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=990...
Cheers,
Graham
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