Capping off Cooker Supply
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Discussion

lawrence567

Original Poster:

7,507 posts

214 months

Wednesday 22nd June 2011
quotequote all
Just after a bit of advise.
About 12 months ago the gf had a gas cooker installed in here house.
The gas main was already there, the plumber came in & hooked the gas hob up to the supply.
It took him about 10-15minutes.
However the hob is absolute turd & our friends who're having a new kitchen put in are gifting us their fan assisted electric oven. (Works perfectly) as her gas one is not fan-assisted which makes cooking anything in it, cakes etc tiresome & a tedious task.
As the hob is from the stoneage by the looks of it.
What i'm trying to gauge is how much a plumber is going to cost to come in & just cap the supply off & disconnect our existing hob.
A mate of mine did it who's a qualified plumber but he's now away travelling so is un-contactable & unable to put it back to how it was before.
Do you have any idea on a guestimation of what it'd cost?
Just so when the next plumber comes round he does'nt shaft us for the cost of it!

Cheers

grumpyscot

1,293 posts

216 months

Wednesday 22nd June 2011
quotequote all
Should only take 15-20 minutes or so. Step 1 - measure the gas pressure. Step 2 - after turning off the gas, cut the pipe and seal it off. Step 3 - turn on the gas and pressure test again. Step 4 - fill in the certificate.

Depends on where you live - my mate would charge me a tenner. Commercial guys £50 call-out, travelling time, and so on.

anonymous-user

78 months

Wednesday 22nd June 2011
quotequote all
Are you sure it needs caping off? The connection for the cooker at my mums house was make or break, when she swapped to electric from gas we just diconnected it.

Arthur Jackson

2,111 posts

254 months

Wednesday 22nd June 2011
quotequote all
Dave_ST220 said:
Are you sure it needs caping off?
Yes. It's a hob, not a cooker.

freecar

4,249 posts

211 months

Wednesday 22nd June 2011
quotequote all
Arthur Jackson said:
Dave_ST220 said:
Are you sure it needs caping off?
Yes. It's a hob, not a cooker.
Are you sure? I couldn't tell, the op mentions both, I think reading it again he means a cooker not a hob!

Arthur Jackson

2,111 posts

254 months

Wednesday 22nd June 2011
quotequote all
You could be right. Who knows?

anonymous-user

78 months

Thursday 23rd June 2011
quotequote all
Arthur Jackson said:
You could be right. Who knows?
The OP? confused

Simpo Two

91,577 posts

289 months

Thursday 23rd June 2011
quotequote all
Turn off gas at meter, light hob until flame goes out. Remove hob. Cut pipe where suitable and fit 15mm compression stop-end. Turn on gas at meter. Spend next 24 hours on hands and knees sniffing like a malformed low-sensitivity bloodhound to check. Carry on.

benbob

14 posts

179 months

Thursday 23rd June 2011
quotequote all
grumpyscot said:
Should only take 15-20 minutes or so.
10 minutes provided there is easy access and no existing leak.

grumpyscot said:
Step 1 - measure the gas pressure.
No point in measuring gas pressure, you need to test for integrity of the gasline.

grumpyscot said:
Step 2 - after turning off the gas, cut the pipe and seal it off.
If the install was done properly, you can turn of the gas at the isolator, disconnect and cap with compression fit to allow easy re-installation at later date.

grumpyscot said:
Step 3 - turn on the gas and pressure test again.
you need to test for integrity of the whole gasline, not pressure as you have not installed an appliance.

grumpyscot said:
Step 4 - fill in the certificate.
Don't need a certificate for disconnection.

dickymint

28,518 posts

282 months

Thursday 23rd June 2011
quotequote all
benbob said:
grumpyscot said:
Should only take 15-20 minutes or so.
10 minutes provided there is easy access and no existing leak.

grumpyscot said:
Step 1 - measure the gas pressure.
No point in measuring gas pressure, you need to test for integrity of the gasline.

grumpyscot said:
Step 2 - after turning off the gas, cut the pipe and seal it off.
If the install was done properly, you can turn of the gas at the isolator, disconnect and cap with compression fit to allow easy re-installation at later date.

grumpyscot said:
Step 3 - turn on the gas and pressure test again.
you need to test for integrity of the whole gasline, not pressure as you have not installed an appliance.

grumpyscot said:
Step 4 - fill in the certificate.
Don't need a certificate for disconnection.
How the hell can you do a tightness test without measuring pressure? I think you need to seriously re-think/re-phrase what you have stated.

lawrence567

Original Poster:

7,507 posts

214 months

Friday 24th June 2011
quotequote all
Cheers guys, turns out one of my cousin is a qualified plumber now & he has done it for me.
My next question, i have to install th 30amp cooker.
Is it literally as simple as turning off mains power, taking off face plate, matching the wires & securing & putting the face plate back on again?
My friend who i got it off said it's that easy & he did it himself, but i have a phobia of being electrocuted.

anonymous-user

78 months

Friday 24th June 2011
quotequote all
Is the circuit designed to take a 30amp device? Is it protected correctly at the consumer unit?

lawrence567

Original Poster:

7,507 posts

214 months

Friday 24th June 2011
quotequote all
Yeah i've had all that checked by my uncle who's a kitchen fitter & fit's electric ovens on a daily basis.
He said i just need to connect it to the oven.

anonymous-user

78 months

Friday 24th June 2011
quotequote all
Easy then. Just make sure the supply is off and test with a meter!

HVAC MATT

1,116 posts

231 months

Friday 24th June 2011
quotequote all
Is the Supply ment for a oven etc. it should be a set supply for the oven ONLY!

So he is "part P" then ?

dickymint

28,518 posts

282 months

Saturday 25th June 2011
quotequote all
dickymint said:
How the hell can you do a tightness test without measuring pressure? I think you need to seriously re-think/re-phrase what you have stated.
I'm still waiting for our recently joined "Gas Safe Expert" to answer this!

Simpo Two

91,577 posts

289 months

Saturday 25th June 2011
quotequote all
lawrence567 said:
i have a phobia of being electrocuted.
I'm not overly keen on it either. With a bit of care you can often wire things up without actually touching the conductors, which gives you an extra level of 'just in case'... I can smell gas but I can't smell electricity.

AdeTuono

7,609 posts

251 months

Saturday 25th June 2011
quotequote all
dickymint said:
dickymint said:
How the hell can you do a tightness test without measuring pressure? I think you need to seriously re-think/re-phrase what you have stated.
I'm still waiting for our recently joined "Gas Safe Expert" to answer this!
http://www.omnitron.co.uk/hand-held-gas-leak-detec...

Other hand-held leak detection devices are available. HTH thumbup


Gingerbread Man

9,173 posts

237 months

Saturday 25th June 2011
quotequote all
dickymint said:
dickymint said:
How the hell can you do a tightness test without measuring pressure? I think you need to seriously re-think/re-phrase what you have stated.
I'm still waiting for our recently joined "Gas Safe Expert" to answer this!
You measure the pressure in millibar. Hold at 20 millibar and check for 2 minutes (on cold pipework). I'd be interested in his differing technique.

dickymint

28,518 posts

282 months

Saturday 25th June 2011
quotequote all
Gingerbread Man said:
dickymint said:
dickymint said:
How the hell can you do a tightness test without measuring pressure? I think you need to seriously re-think/re-phrase what you have stated.
I'm still waiting for our recently joined "Gas Safe Expert" to answer this!
You measure the pressure in millibar. Hold at 20 millibar and check for 2 minutes (on cold pipework). I'd be interested in his differing technique.
IIRC a 2 millibar drop is acceptable. I know this, you know this, Benebob knows this. So I just do not understand why He posted such nonsense.

He's obviously busy sorting out His website after asking for feedback on another thread.

http://www.boiler-breakdown-repair-london.co.uk/em...