Fitting New Bath Taps (Urgent help needed)
Discussion
I am trying to get rid of the bath taps I have and fit one of those mixer/shower ones, so have been out and bought it, read the instructions and turned all the water off.
First problem, when I took the old taps off, there was a steady trickle of water out of the cold pipe, nothing too serious could work around this, have fitted the taps and the cold is still leaking (now dripping into the kitchen) And yes, I turned the water off and emptied the pipes, nothing coming out of any other taps.
It's difficult to see the hot pipe connection (due to the bath being in the way), but one thing I have noticed is that there seems to be no olive on the cold pipe, should there be? (I seem to remember there being one on each of the kitchen pipes when I changed those taps), like I say, can't see or feel if there is one on the hot pipe, so do I need to get an olive and will this stop this steady trickle of water out of where the tap and the pipe fasten with the nut?
Please help, I need to turn my water back on soon and I don't want to pay extorionate fees for a plumber for what should be an easy job.
Many thanks
First problem, when I took the old taps off, there was a steady trickle of water out of the cold pipe, nothing too serious could work around this, have fitted the taps and the cold is still leaking (now dripping into the kitchen) And yes, I turned the water off and emptied the pipes, nothing coming out of any other taps.
It's difficult to see the hot pipe connection (due to the bath being in the way), but one thing I have noticed is that there seems to be no olive on the cold pipe, should there be? (I seem to remember there being one on each of the kitchen pipes when I changed those taps), like I say, can't see or feel if there is one on the hot pipe, so do I need to get an olive and will this stop this steady trickle of water out of where the tap and the pipe fasten with the nut?
Please help, I need to turn my water back on soon and I don't want to pay extorionate fees for a plumber for what should be an easy job.
Many thanks
I don't know, I just unscrewed the nut on each of the copper pipes that the old taps were attached to, they look like 22mm pipes and each just had this big nut on. The end of the pipe goes into the threaded bit of the tap and then you screw the nut back up. I have done this, but there is a leak, have tried ptfe tape, but that's not making much difference, I do know that when I did the kitchen taps a couple of years ago, they were the same, but the copper pipe did have an olive that sat snug against the end of the tap bit.
FERG!!You should have removed the old olive, cleaned and perhaps cut back a short section and replaced the pipe (dependant on condition) and then used a new olive. PTFE, plumbers mate etc will not help now.
With the greatest respect, your lack of knowledge does seem to suggest a plumber may be the best way forward.
With the greatest respect, your lack of knowledge does seem to suggest a plumber may be the best way forward.
There needs to be an olive ring on the copper pipe if your using compression fitting taps. Even if there is one there on the pipe, if you have just swapped taps it is probable that the olive is in the wrong position slightly and then leaks will be inevitable. Sometimes you can still slide the olive into the right position hard up against the fitting before giving it a wrap with PTFE tape.
There was no olive there, I am usually good with these things, managed to change the kitchen taps with no problems, and figured this would be just the same, turn water off, drain pipes, unscrew old taps, screw on new taps, turn water on, check for leaks and away you go.
Mainly I have two problems, the first being that the stop cock seems to allow some seepage through, either that or the pipe is finding water from somewhere, and the second being that I cannot for the life of me make a good seal where the nut joins the water pipe to the tap, I must be doing something right, as the seepage seems to have slowed down now, its more a drip than a trickle.
I was just concerned that there was no olive on the pipe, and no evidence of a dead one anywhere, but the old taps didn't leak, and they are the same size pipe and fitting.
Mainly I have two problems, the first being that the stop cock seems to allow some seepage through, either that or the pipe is finding water from somewhere, and the second being that I cannot for the life of me make a good seal where the nut joins the water pipe to the tap, I must be doing something right, as the seepage seems to have slowed down now, its more a drip than a trickle.
I was just concerned that there was no olive on the pipe, and no evidence of a dead one anywhere, but the old taps didn't leak, and they are the same size pipe and fitting.
M400 NBL said:
Were the 2 pipes/flexible hoses already attached to the tap? Could it be leaking from there and not where you've connected it?
Nope, the taps were fixed directly to the copper water pipes, the seepage is definitely where the nut connects the pipe to the threaded bit of the tap.speedchick said:
Nope, the taps were fixed directly to the copper water pipes, the seepage is definitely where the nut connects the pipe to the threaded bit of the tap.
There's not a rubber washer/seal still in the box?On taps i've changed, the pipe or flexible hose has always screw into a female port on the taps. Does what you're connecting resemble anything like how you'd fit a shower hose to a mixer tap? If so they have rubber washers.
I'm fitting one of these
http://www.screwfix.com/p/swirl-contract-metal-hea...
The only washers were the two that go on the tap thread between the bath and the plastic nut, and the two that go in either end of the shower hose.
I just checked, and there are no other washers or bits and pieces, and what's there tallies up with the instruction sheet/box contents list.
I just need to know if I need to go get an olive, or do I need to go get some flexible hoses and a junior hacksaw (and maybe two isolating valves while I am at it)
http://www.screwfix.com/p/swirl-contract-metal-hea...
The only washers were the two that go on the tap thread between the bath and the plastic nut, and the two that go in either end of the shower hose.
I just checked, and there are no other washers or bits and pieces, and what's there tallies up with the instruction sheet/box contents list.
I just need to know if I need to go get an olive, or do I need to go get some flexible hoses and a junior hacksaw (and maybe two isolating valves while I am at it)
speedchick said:
I'm fitting one of these
http://www.screwfix.com/p/swirl-contract-metal-hea...
The only washers were the two that go on the tap thread between the bath and the plastic nut, and the two that go in either end of the shower hose.
I just checked, and there are no other washers or bits and pieces, and what's there tallies up with the instruction sheet/box contents list.
I just need to know if I need to go get an olive, or do I need to go get some flexible hoses and a junior hacksaw (and maybe two isolating valves while I am at it)
Is there a rubber washer on the face of the insert that the nut swivels on? It maybe that it's now hard and needs replacing. But i'd assume you'de need a washer of some sort between the 2 metalic surfaces for it not to leak..... unless ut's machined to aero spec or at least one of the parts is made of aluminium.http://www.screwfix.com/p/swirl-contract-metal-hea...
The only washers were the two that go on the tap thread between the bath and the plastic nut, and the two that go in either end of the shower hose.
I just checked, and there are no other washers or bits and pieces, and what's there tallies up with the instruction sheet/box contents list.
I just need to know if I need to go get an olive, or do I need to go get some flexible hoses and a junior hacksaw (and maybe two isolating valves while I am at it)
I belive this is what you are missing.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/fibre-washer-pack-of-20/...
That washer needs to be placed on top of the tap connector before tightening up to the tap body.
Flexi hoses will also get over this problem.
Edit: Actually you probably require 3/4" not 1/2"
http://www.screwfix.com/p/fibre-washer-pack-of-20/...
That washer needs to be placed on top of the tap connector before tightening up to the tap body.
Flexi hoses will also get over this problem.
Edit: Actually you probably require 3/4" not 1/2"
Been down to Screwfix, tried to get some fibre washers, but they had none, and I can't wait till tomorrow for them, so have got a pipe cutter and 2 flexi tap connectors, each with their own isolating valves, so at the very least, if there are any more problems, I can turn the water back on, but isolate the bath.
First though (cos I just got home), I am gonna use what's left in the kettle, have a coffee and then get on with it, thanks all for your help, I may yet be back (but I hope not)
First though (cos I just got home), I am gonna use what's left in the kettle, have a coffee and then get on with it, thanks all for your help, I may yet be back (but I hope not)
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