Hole in hot water cylinder. Megaflow replacement?
Discussion
I've a pin hole in my copper hot water cylinder. Instead of replacing like for like, is it a simple job to replace it with a megaflow stainless steel tank.
Currently I'm using a supplementary shower pump which is noisy but provides me with adequate pressure to wash with as shower and tank are on the same level.
If not are the normal stainless steel ones worth the extra outlay?
Currently I'm using a supplementary shower pump which is noisy but provides me with adequate pressure to wash with as shower and tank are on the same level.
If not are the normal stainless steel ones worth the extra outlay?
We replaced standard cylinder with megaflow when we had an extension and new bathrooms with power showers.
Its brilliant, miles better than a pump and all taps get full mains pressure hot water
It is not a simple replacement though. It needs a fair amount of extra pipework and we needed extra valves and an additional pump. You need a megaflow experienced plumber as it is a pressure vessel and incorrect installation can lead to unhappy experiences.
I do recommend it though. Every 9 months or so, you have to go through a process to recharge the pressure, it takes about 10 mins.
Its brilliant, miles better than a pump and all taps get full mains pressure hot water
It is not a simple replacement though. It needs a fair amount of extra pipework and we needed extra valves and an additional pump. You need a megaflow experienced plumber as it is a pressure vessel and incorrect installation can lead to unhappy experiences.
I do recommend it though. Every 9 months or so, you have to go through a process to recharge the pressure, it takes about 10 mins.
'Megaflo' is the name of one of many Unvented cylinders and not necessarily the best. We fit OSO although Main are very good (and made by Heatrae Sadia like Megaflo...avoid paying for the name)
The important issues are that you have the flow and pressure available to RUN unvented. Not everyone has by a LONG way. Other issues are the running of a 22mm cold supply to the cylinder and the running of a discharge pipe in metal, normally 22mm or possibly 28mm to an outside wall. They can actually be done in SUITABLE plastic to a soil stack in certain circumstances that keep the BCO happy. Which reminds me... YOU MUST notify the BCO of your intention to fit an unvented cylinder and have it fitted by someone who is certificated.
The important issues are that you have the flow and pressure available to RUN unvented. Not everyone has by a LONG way. Other issues are the running of a 22mm cold supply to the cylinder and the running of a discharge pipe in metal, normally 22mm or possibly 28mm to an outside wall. They can actually be done in SUITABLE plastic to a soil stack in certain circumstances that keep the BCO happy. Which reminds me... YOU MUST notify the BCO of your intention to fit an unvented cylinder and have it fitted by someone who is certificated.
Arthur Jackson said:
The important issues are that you have the flow and pressure available to RUN unvented............... have it fitted by someone who is certificated.
^This.Do your own research and find out what flow rate the manufacturer recommends, an unvented cylinder is awful with poor flow rate.
Also they are hugely dangerous if not installed correctly!
condor said:
I've got a Megaflow and wish I hadn't - it constantly leaks out of the overflow pipe, which in winter freezes up so I'm having to get the hairdryer out to defrost it. The air bubble needs to be reset very often. The only thing it's good for is having mains pressure hot water.
There's a problem there. It shouldn't do that. It also shouldn't have any user-serviceable parts. If you're 'resetting' anything on it, you're a brave girl. (Frankly, long-suspected.)
Edited by Mobile Chicane on Saturday 22 October 00:07
Mobile Chicane said:
There's a problem there. It shouldn't do that. It also shouldn't have any user-serviceable parts.
If you're 'resetting' anything on it, you're a brave girl. (Frankly, long-suspected.)
They usually have user instructions on them showing how to restore the air bubble. If you're 'resetting' anything on it, you're a brave girl. (Frankly, long-suspected.)
Edited by Mobile Chicane on Saturday 22 October 00:07
Usually turn the water supply off, open the Temperature/Pressure Relief Valve until water stops flowing and turn water back on.
The problem with this being if you operate the TPRV it usually gets debris stuck between the rubber and the valve seat allowing water to pass.
Some water absorbs air much more quickly. You can remove the need for the bubble by fitting a pressure vessel to the cylinder IMMEDIATELY upstream from the inlet connection. This means the whole cylinder holds water too, of course, so more hot storage.
Be aware, though, that other things can cause water discharge.
Be aware, though, that other things can cause water discharge.
Mobile Chicane said:
condor said:
I've got a Megaflow and wish I hadn't - it constantly leaks out of the overflow pipe, which in winter freezes up so I'm having to get the hairdryer out to defrost it. The air bubble needs to be reset very often. The only thing it's good for is having mains pressure hot water.
There's a problem there. It shouldn't do that. It also shouldn't have any user-serviceable parts. If you're 'resetting' anything on it, you're a brave girl. (Frankly, long-suspected.)
I get a plumber round to do it. Though it is an unnecessary extra cost. Arthur Jackson said:
Some water absorbs air much more quickly. You can remove the need for the bubble by fitting a pressure vessel to the cylinder IMMEDIATELY upstream from the inlet connection. This means the whole cylinder holds water too, of course, so more hot storage.
Be aware, though, that other things can cause water discharge.
Time to get the plumber round again. I'll make suggestions that he do that.Be aware, though, that other things can cause water discharge.
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