Garage Floor Paint
Author
Discussion

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,274 posts

246 months

Sunday 26th August 2012
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Has anyone used this product?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-floor-paint-...

Comments/feedback or recommended alternatives please.

Thanks in advance.

Golaboots

369 posts

175 months

Sunday 26th August 2012
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Does what it says.

Honestherbert

592 posts

174 months

Sunday 26th August 2012
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strangely enough just got 2 tins this afternoon on the way to work!! will let you know in a few days what its likebiggrin

buzzer

3,621 posts

267 months

Monday 27th August 2012
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As with any Single pack floor paint, make sure you put it on in very thin coats, or it will lift!

davepoth

29,395 posts

226 months

Monday 27th August 2012
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Concrete floor? Use a tack coat first, it'll help the paint to bond with the floor.

DoubleSix

12,476 posts

203 months

Monday 27th August 2012
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davepoth said:
Concrete floor? Use a tack coat first, it'll help the paint to bond with the floor.
Can you elaborate.

I've got a big tin of 'Safety Blue' about to go down... surface is concrete with engine oil drips all over...

cheadle hulme

2,501 posts

209 months

Monday 27th August 2012
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I've just used the Ronseal version "diamond hard garage floor paint".

Its fine, although the floor needs to be 99% clean for it to adhere.

although it says on't tin it resists hot tyres; it doesn't.

My K1200s has carpet under it so it doesn't stick.

davepoth

29,395 posts

226 months

Monday 27th August 2012
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DoubleSix said:
Can you elaborate.

I've got a big tin of 'Safety Blue' about to go down... surface is concrete with engine oil drips all over...
Oh bugger, I always used to get the two confused when I worked at the place that sold the road paint. Possibly explaining why I don't work at the place that sells road paint any more.;)

What I meant was "concrete primer"; seal the floor and the paint will adhere to it much better.

buzzer

3,621 posts

267 months

Monday 27th August 2012
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The biggest mistake people make when painting the floor with single pack paint is to try to a achieve a nice gloss finish...

to make it durable, and far less prone to lifting from warm tyres is to put on as thin a coat as you can... use a foam roller and REALLY spread it thin. just enough to cover.

the reason for this is single pack pains dry by the evaporation of solvents, so they skin over first, which makes them dry to the touch, but in reality they are still liquid underneath! it takes a long time to through harden a thick coat, hence it lifts easily when you park the car on it...

a single thin coat is best, followed by another in weeks or months time.

for best results you can always use a two pack paint, which drys by chemical reaction and through hardens very quickly. its more expensive but has the added bonus of being far more resilient to solvents.


Manks

28,176 posts

249 months

Monday 27th August 2012
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buzzer said:
The biggest mistake people make when painting the floor with single pack paint is to try to a achieve a nice gloss finish...

to make it durable, and far less prone to lifting from warm tyres is to put on as thin a coat as you can... use a foam roller and REALLY spread it thin. just enough to cover.

the reason for this is single pack pains dry by the evaporation of solvents, so they skin over first, which makes them dry to the touch, but in reality they are still liquid underneath! it takes a long time to through harden a thick coat, hence it lifts easily when you park the car on it...

a single thin coat is best, followed by another in weeks or months time.

for best results you can always use a two pack paint, which drys by chemical reaction and through hardens very quickly. its more expensive but has the added bonus of being far more resilient to solvents.
Buzzer, top tips thank you. I have painted many a garage floor only to then have it stick to my tyres.

DoubleSix

12,476 posts

203 months

Monday 27th August 2012
quotequote all
buzzer said:
The biggest mistake people make when painting the floor with single pack paint is to try to a achieve a nice gloss finish...

to make it durable, and far less prone to lifting from warm tyres is to put on as thin a coat as you can... use a foam roller and REALLY spread it thin. just enough to cover.

the reason for this is single pack pains dry by the evaporation of solvents, so they skin over first, which makes them dry to the touch, but in reality they are still liquid underneath! it takes a long time to through harden a thick coat, hence it lifts easily when you park the car on it...

a single thin coat is best, followed by another in weeks or months time.

for best results you can always use a two pack paint, which drys by chemical reaction and through hardens very quickly. its more expensive but has the added bonus of being far more resilient to solvents.
Cheers,

How important is it that the floor be clean, mines covered in dust and oil spots... can't see an easy way of getting it spotless!

buzzer

3,621 posts

267 months

Monday 27th August 2012
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DoubleSix said:
Cheers,

How important is it that the floor be clean, mines covered in dust and oil spots... can't see an easy way of getting it spotless!
Its important that its as clean as you possibly can get it... Use some commercial grade detergent first, mixed as per instructions for heavy soiling. give every inch a good scrub with a stiff brush, hose it all off and let it dry thoroughly.

If its a bare concrete, unpainted floor, clean it a couple of times and when its dry, brush it over with a 20% mix of water and PVA. let it dry thoroughly before painting.



fergus

6,430 posts

302 months

Tuesday 28th August 2012
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buzzer said:
Its important that its as clean as you possibly can get it... Use some commercial grade detergent first, mixed as per instructions for heavy soiling. give every inch a good scrub with a stiff brush, hose it all off and let it dry thoroughly.

If its a bare concrete, unpainted floor, clean it a couple of times and when its dry, brush it over with a 20% mix of water and PVA. let it dry thoroughly before painting.
I would use an acid etch to both "clean" the floor and also remove any laitance, which is more likely to give you problems.

Use a proper concrete sealer, rather than PVA. This is a proper bodge. You will never get a good key this way, and are likely to have paint lifting everywhere, whether using single or 2 pack...

DoubleSix

12,476 posts

203 months

Tuesday 28th August 2012
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Would it be easier to just pour a new floor using a liquid screed??

buzzer

3,621 posts

267 months

Tuesday 28th August 2012
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fergus said:
I would use an acid etch to both "clean" the floor and also remove any laitance, which is more likely to give you problems.

Use a proper concrete sealer, rather than PVA. This is a proper bodge. You will never get a good key this way, and are likely to have paint lifting everywhere, whether using single or 2 pack...
I used PVA on my garage floor 20 years ago... it was bare concrete however... I don't have any lifting and its mostly good as new. If they sell proper stuff though, that's what I would use now.