Diy-Kitchens.com - Wall Units with Down-lights?
Discussion
Looking at ordering a load of kitchen units shortly, wall units are here:
http://www.diy-kitchens.com/kitchen-units/wall/
I can't see any that are designed for a down-light. What's the best way to DIY some down-lights? Are LED strips any good these days, or am I looking at fitting either a false shelf and front to create space for GU10s, or fitting a lower rail under the units that houses some sort of strip-light type fitting?
Thanks!
http://www.diy-kitchens.com/kitchen-units/wall/
I can't see any that are designed for a down-light. What's the best way to DIY some down-lights? Are LED strips any good these days, or am I looking at fitting either a false shelf and front to create space for GU10s, or fitting a lower rail under the units that houses some sort of strip-light type fitting?
Thanks!
Something like this: http://www.ecoledlight.co.uk/decoled-flexi-strip--...
Or maybe this: http://www.ecoledlight.co.uk/ecoled-furniture-bar~...
Or maybe this: http://www.ecoledlight.co.uk/ecoled-furniture-bar~...
dazwalsh said:
easiest option is fitting a decorative plinth on the bottom of the units which would then hide whatever light system you have tucked in behind there.
Indeed. Usually referred to as a pelmet, or a lighting pelmetMany people find the small fluorescent strip lights to be entirely suitable, Screwfix etc do units that can be daisy chained together so are easy to install.
I daresay LED units would be good too, but it's not something I have had the time or inclination to experiment with yet.
Routing a recess into the base of wall units will involve cutting away the melamine surface of the MFC (melamine faced chipboard) that virtually all factory made units are made of. So some kind of sealing should be applied to prevent damage from water ingress from condensing steam.
I've just done my kitchen using std cabinets, but then used self adhesive LED tape from these guys.
http://www.simplelighting.co.uk/
You can cut it to length yourself, wire it into the lighting circuit, or as i did, a plug, with a 3A fuse and a remote controlled dimmer.
They look great, can't be seen, and take about 10 mins to install.
http://www.simplelighting.co.uk/
You can cut it to length yourself, wire it into the lighting circuit, or as i did, a plug, with a 3A fuse and a remote controlled dimmer.
They look great, can't be seen, and take about 10 mins to install.
The higher spec 5050 LED tape works well for under cabinet lighting, as a lighting feature. If the design incorporates a lighting pelmet, this can be stuck directly to the cabinet.
If you are going for a modern look without pelmet, then we route a purpose made aluminum extrusion into the underside of the carcass, fit the LED tape, then there is a diffuser than encloses that. A similar effect could be achieved by just routing, but would not look as good, and I would share Singecoils concerns re-moisture ingress/swelling.
Whilst the LED tape gives a good light level, it is not as bright as a Fluorescent link light.
If you are going for a modern look without pelmet, then we route a purpose made aluminum extrusion into the underside of the carcass, fit the LED tape, then there is a diffuser than encloses that. A similar effect could be achieved by just routing, but would not look as good, and I would share Singecoils concerns re-moisture ingress/swelling.
Whilst the LED tape gives a good light level, it is not as bright as a Fluorescent link light.
Edited by Neil - YVM on Friday 24th May 09:28
Neil - YVM said:
Whilst the LED tape gives a good light level, it is not as bright as a Fluorescent link light.
I must say I am not surprised to hear that. I expect LEDs will get there eventually. One thing that worries me about LEDs is that it's a rapidly developing technology and if units fail in say a couple of years it might be difficult to get like-for-like replacements.I'm just finishing a diy-kitchens.com kitchen, and using led lighting strips (from DX.com) and a pelmet that runs along the bottom of the cupboards.
We're messing around with what colour (how 'warm' the white is, mainly) but also playing with doing something silly too. In this picture the under cupboards on the left are lighting strips (lightly masking taped there, for testing, not finished) and the LEDs along the top for colour the same. Was very impressed with how even the light spread was and how good it looked, though I didn't think it would;
We're messing around with what colour (how 'warm' the white is, mainly) but also playing with doing something silly too. In this picture the under cupboards on the left are lighting strips (lightly masking taped there, for testing, not finished) and the LEDs along the top for colour the same. Was very impressed with how even the light spread was and how good it looked, though I didn't think it would;
singlecoil said:
I must say I am not surprised to hear that. I expect LEDs will get there eventually. One thing that worries me about LEDs is that it's a rapidly developing technology and if units fail in say a couple of years it might be difficult to get like-for-like replacements.
Won't be an issue with LED tape, the size has been standard for years. When it first came out the 3528 series was expensive and not bright enough. But 5050 is certainly good enough, and sensible cost. Plus it opens up a whole host of lighting opportunities. It also comes warm or cool white, other colours, and even programmable. (Warm light looks similar to link lights).In a modern design it can really enhance the design.
Coincidentally, I am going back to a customers today, as they have changed their mind and now want cool white instead of Warm. I'll take the camera and take some piccy's.
Our kitchen was from diy kitchens and we ordered the matching pelmet (then the fitter chopped too much off and we had to order some more from DIY, at a rather extortionate shipping fee, so don't be afraid to over-order)
We used self-adhesive LED strip fitted into an aluminium diffused housing, which gave a nice light. I wouldn't say it's as bright as an equivalent length of flourescent tube but it is a good work light / evening light for when you don't want the main lights on.
You could probably route the aluminium housing into the bottom of the unit, not sure if this is enough protection from steam etc underneath, but you'd also need to be clever with the routing of the wires too. Plus, with LED, there is at least one transformer you need to put somewhere. However at least with LED the low voltage wires can be small compared to T+E etc.
We used self-adhesive LED strip fitted into an aluminium diffused housing, which gave a nice light. I wouldn't say it's as bright as an equivalent length of flourescent tube but it is a good work light / evening light for when you don't want the main lights on.
You could probably route the aluminium housing into the bottom of the unit, not sure if this is enough protection from steam etc underneath, but you'd also need to be clever with the routing of the wires too. Plus, with LED, there is at least one transformer you need to put somewhere. However at least with LED the low voltage wires can be small compared to T+E etc.
paulrockliffe said:
Looking at ordering a load of kitchen units shortly, wall units are here:
http://www.diy-kitchens.com/kitchen-units/wall/
I can't see any that are designed for a down-light. What's the best way to DIY some down-lights? Are LED strips any good these days, or am I looking at fitting either a false shelf and front to create space for GU10s, or fitting a lower rail under the units that houses some sort of strip-light type fitting?
Thanks!
WE can absolutely do your task lighting with strips. Further, [url=http://www.ecoledlight.co.uk/led-profiles---7mm-slimline-x-2m~538]we have smart aluminium profiles with frosted diffusers[url] to house and finish said strips. These can be surface mounted or recessed depending on what you want.http://www.diy-kitchens.com/kitchen-units/wall/
I can't see any that are designed for a down-light. What's the best way to DIY some down-lights? Are LED strips any good these days, or am I looking at fitting either a false shelf and front to create space for GU10s, or fitting a lower rail under the units that houses some sort of strip-light type fitting?
Thanks!
Neil - YVM said:
The higher spec 5050 LED tape works well for under cabinet lighting, as a lighting feature. If the design incorporates a lighting pelmet, this can be stuck directly to the cabinet.
If you are going for a modern look without pelmet, then we route a purpose made aluminum extrusion into the underside of the carcass, fit the LED tape, then there is a diffuser than encloses that. A similar effect could be achieved by just routing, but would not look as good, and I would share Singecoils concerns re-moisture ingress/swelling.
Agreed. It would not look as good. Further, mounting to wood is not a good base for a longer term application. I would always advise the LED to be mounted half way between front and back of cabinet due to the wide beam angle. If one mounts close the wall then the light is too intense against the tile. Mount behind a pelmet and said pelmet creates a shadow below on the work surface. Mount between front and back and the strip will light all the work surface and splash back will be evenly lit. If you are going for a modern look without pelmet, then we route a purpose made aluminum extrusion into the underside of the carcass, fit the LED tape, then there is a diffuser than encloses that. A similar effect could be achieved by just routing, but would not look as good, and I would share Singecoils concerns re-moisture ingress/swelling.
The above is said for general assistance Neil not specifically targeting yourself!
Neil - YVM said:
Whilst the LED tape gives a good light level, it is not as bright as a Fluorescent link light.
I would dispute that Neil. We have LED strip capable of 1100 lumens per metre so more than a match for Fluoros.Edited by E36GUY on Friday 24th May 10:38
Edited by E36GUY on Friday 24th May 10:40
essayer said:
Our kitchen was from diy kitchens and we ordered the matching pelmet (then the fitter chopped too much off and we had to order some more from DIY, at a rather extortionate shipping fee, so don't be afraid to over-order)
We used self-adhesive LED strip fitted into an aluminium diffused housing, which gave a nice light. I wouldn't say it's as bright as an equivalent length of flourescent tube but it is a good work light / evening light for when you don't want the main lights on.
You could probably route the aluminium housing into the bottom of the unit, not sure if this is enough protection from steam etc underneath, but you'd also need to be clever with the routing of the wires too. Plus, with LED, there is at least one transformer you need to put somewhere. However at least with LED the low voltage wires can be small compared to T+E etc.
I assume these are turned on/off at the 240 are they, otherwise you'd be leaving the transformers running all the time?We used self-adhesive LED strip fitted into an aluminium diffused housing, which gave a nice light. I wouldn't say it's as bright as an equivalent length of flourescent tube but it is a good work light / evening light for when you don't want the main lights on.
You could probably route the aluminium housing into the bottom of the unit, not sure if this is enough protection from steam etc underneath, but you'd also need to be clever with the routing of the wires too. Plus, with LED, there is at least one transformer you need to put somewhere. However at least with LED the low voltage wires can be small compared to T+E etc.
Edited by herewego on Friday 24th May 14:27
essayer said:
You could probably route the aluminium housing into the bottom of the unit, not sure if this is enough protection from steam etc underneath, but you'd also need to be clever with the routing of the wires too. Plus, with LED, there is at least one transformer you need to put somewhere. However at least with LED the low voltage wires can be small compared to T+E etc.
You'd use an IP65 rated strip inside the housing then you are well covered for steam/splashes. The feed wires need be no more than speaker wire.Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff