Woodburner and plastering

[andygo]

I have a woodburning stove fitted about 18 months ago.

The supposedly good company that fitted it hav made a right mess, so much so they only charged the cost of the stove and not the install and plasterwork.
The flue from the stove to the steel blanking panel in the chimney is out of true.
The stove is about 2 inches from the back of the fireplace.
The heat resistant plaster in the firplace has cracked in several places and blown.

I want to sort it out myself - it can't be rocket science! (Famous last words, I know.)

So I'm going to remove all the plaster, and redo.
I'm going to mod the blanking panel that the flue passes through to allow the stove to move away from the back of the fireplace and allow the heat to radiate around the room more efficiently.

Whats the best plaster to use to apply to the old brick fireplace shell. (Its a 1920's house FYI.) I think there is some ready mixed stuff to get. Also, what sort of depth should it be applied onto the fireplace? Is it ok then to skim with standard plaster skim?

Cheers.

[Rollin]

Cement board

[andygo]

That sounds like a plan for the back of the fireplace, but the 2 sides have a radius on them back to front. I'd prefer not to square off the aperture as it looks better wider I think.

[B17NNS]

I've used this at a clients house before.

Absolute pig to work with however.

[andygo]

B17NNS said:

I've used this at a clients house before.

Absolute pig to work with however.

Oh dear, maybe thats not a good plan. What do you suggest?

[74merc]

You can get Vermiculite tiles for this very purpose. I saw some fluted ones which were left unpainted and they looked very smart.

[andygo]

74merc said:

You can get Vermiculite tiles for this very purpose. I saw some fluted ones which were left unpainted and they looked very smart.

Are they slightly flexible to accommodate the slight opening out of my fireplace?



(I know google is my friend, but there's just some stuff you don't like to ask mates.. )

[74merc]

I would say they would be slightly flexible, but I have never installed them. It's the same material used to line the firebox in the stove.

[Tumbler]

Does the instillation comply with building regs?

[Dale 1]

Hi, I have plastered a couple of places with wood burners, one was a resturant and the plaster keeps cracking because of the heat and they have used Fermacell board. Just screw and plug it to wall then fill screw holes and paint. Hope this helps.

[andygo]

I'll look into that. Cheers.

[magooagain]

Why dont you stick an elbow on the flue and get that stove well forward to enjoy the heat? You may not get cracked plaster problems also.

[Rollin]

You could probably bend and screw 6mm aquapanel round that.

[B17NNS]

Dale 1 said:

Just screw and plug it to wall then fill screw holes and paint. Hope this helps.

Best advice if you don't fancy trying the Victas stuff.

Gypsum based finish is guaranteed to crack whatever the background (board - cement or otherwise, bonding or render).

[Simpo Two]

I travelled this road a few months ago. Someone said Fireboard, so I got some, then it turned out it's only designed to protect property in the event of a one-off REAL fire, not continuous high heat - gypsum has a max temp above which it breaks down.

Another builder recommended Asbestolux, and has now fitted it, so this winter we shall see if he was right!

[GraemeP]

I had my dining room renovated about 4 years ago. I had the room plastered, then the inside of the fireplace was rendered with concrete ready to paint. I have an 8kw stove in there,and it still looks like new.

[Grenoble]

If you move it forwards, check you still have the right minimum clearance in front of the wood burner (225mm I think, but i might be wrong)

[andygo]

The elbow solution to the flue would bring it out too far into the room I think. I seem to remember the fitters trying one and it looked a bit daft tbh.