Correct method to sand/stain/varnish floorboards
Discussion
Hi all,
I've recently bought a place, and a lot of the house has the original boards. Now I'm fairly new to all this sort of stuff, but I'd like to give it a crack myself so I know how to do it for future.
As far as I'm aware, I need to firstly bang all the nailheads down, and fill all the gaps, I was thinking of using these http://oldpinecompany.co.uk/acatalog/About_Old_Pin... pine splints in all the gaps to give a clean finish? Or should I just leave the gaps and put the draftex stuff down so it cuts the draft but still leaves a visible gap?
And from there, I sand the floor with a sander, coarse to start, and progressively lighter paper, hoover that, get rid of excess with mop etc ...
What then? Do I apply the stain then another coat before two coats of varnish? Or do I need to sand in between coats of everything?
Any tips of walk through would be great, as the ones I've found look to be of newer looking floors than mine!
I've recently bought a place, and a lot of the house has the original boards. Now I'm fairly new to all this sort of stuff, but I'd like to give it a crack myself so I know how to do it for future.
As far as I'm aware, I need to firstly bang all the nailheads down, and fill all the gaps, I was thinking of using these http://oldpinecompany.co.uk/acatalog/About_Old_Pin... pine splints in all the gaps to give a clean finish? Or should I just leave the gaps and put the draftex stuff down so it cuts the draft but still leaves a visible gap?
And from there, I sand the floor with a sander, coarse to start, and progressively lighter paper, hoover that, get rid of excess with mop etc ...
What then? Do I apply the stain then another coat before two coats of varnish? Or do I need to sand in between coats of everything?
Any tips of walk through would be great, as the ones I've found look to be of newer looking floors than mine!
Just did this with a Victorian floor. Filled the gaps with wood filler that was about the same colour (even though it says it won't work). Sanded diagonally across the boards until the final paper (to level them). Take your time and be prepared to do a lot of passes. I think it took 14 passes all in on mine. Then mop. Then wipe down with white spirit to remove any grease etc. Then you can stain/varnish/whatever. I used Ronseal Diamond Hard wax. I think I did 3 coats then 240 grit paper and a final coat to finish.
Going through this now. Bought a new place and the lounge/diner floor has been scratched quite badly on one side, probably where the dining table was.
Hired a Floor and Edge sander pack from HSS over the weekend. Went over with the floor sander twice with each grade of 40, 80 and 120 paper. Edge sander with each grade too. Used the brush and vacuum in between to clean up.
I'm waiting for the dust to settle now and then will use white spirit on a cloth to collect any remaining dust.
I did go into Homebase for some of the Ronseal Diamond varnish but the colours shown were not very clear and there was no staff to assist us.
I popped into my local Eurodec at lunchtime and the guys were very helpful and mixed me a tin of the Dulux diamond finish. It seems to have cost me more than the Ronseal but it's not a job I want to do again so want to get it right.
They recommended I use one coat clear first and then two coats of the mixed stuff. Got some 500 grit paper to use in between coats and the correct roller brush.
Hired a Floor and Edge sander pack from HSS over the weekend. Went over with the floor sander twice with each grade of 40, 80 and 120 paper. Edge sander with each grade too. Used the brush and vacuum in between to clean up.
I'm waiting for the dust to settle now and then will use white spirit on a cloth to collect any remaining dust.
I did go into Homebase for some of the Ronseal Diamond varnish but the colours shown were not very clear and there was no staff to assist us.
I popped into my local Eurodec at lunchtime and the guys were very helpful and mixed me a tin of the Dulux diamond finish. It seems to have cost me more than the Ronseal but it's not a job I want to do again so want to get it right.
They recommended I use one coat clear first and then two coats of the mixed stuff. Got some 500 grit paper to use in between coats and the correct roller brush.
Here's one really vital tip. If you use the kind of floor sander that is like a hoover, do yourself a big favour & don't stop with the belt rotating. It will wear a groove in the floor very quickly indeed. Lift the sander off the floor before stopping. The trick with those things is to keep moving.
The Restorer said:
Robbie, the 240 grit didn't add any scartches did it? I am a little nervous on sanding in between coats. Last thing I want is to have to start all over again because I end up messing it up towards the end.
If there's a 2 hour gap between coats how long did you wait to sand?
No, no scratches. Sand the final machine sand and then the hand 240 grit with the grain. It's just to get the surface smooth so don't sand heavily/with much force. It may well depend on the product you are using: I followed the instructions on the Ronseal tin when it came to application including that 240 grit sanding.If there's a 2 hour gap between coats how long did you wait to sand?
When you do the floor sanding here are my two tips..
A) when you assemble it do up the handle tightly otherwise the head disconnect then will drag itself into a corner and sand a massive gouge in the floor
B) change the bag more often than you think because if it falls off mid session your room will instantly resemble the Sahara desert and you will more likely than not let go of the machine .. See A) except in my case it hit the radiator pipe which then split
Good luck!
Also, make sure you have ear protection
A) when you assemble it do up the handle tightly otherwise the head disconnect then will drag itself into a corner and sand a massive gouge in the floor
B) change the bag more often than you think because if it falls off mid session your room will instantly resemble the Sahara desert and you will more likely than not let go of the machine .. See A) except in my case it hit the radiator pipe which then split
Good luck!
Also, make sure you have ear protection
okgo said:
Thanks!
So in terms of filling the gaps, which certainly needs to be done to some extent as I'm basically pouring heat down the cracks at the minute. Do pine slivers fit the bill best? and then wood-fill any holes etc?
My gaps were not too bad so I just used filler. I am intending insulating from below (I have easy access via a basement) with Celotex or similar.So in terms of filling the gaps, which certainly needs to be done to some extent as I'm basically pouring heat down the cracks at the minute. Do pine slivers fit the bill best? and then wood-fill any holes etc?
Hire the floor sander from an independent hire shop it will probably be cheaper.
make sure the nails are 2 or 3 mm below the surface.
Buy a dust mask.
be prepared for dust to get everywhere.
get twice as many sanding sheets as you think you will need.
be careful of radiator pipes, you can sand through them with an edge sander.
make sure the nails are 2 or 3 mm below the surface.
Buy a dust mask.
be prepared for dust to get everywhere.
get twice as many sanding sheets as you think you will need.
be careful of radiator pipes, you can sand through them with an edge sander.
okgo said:
Thanks!
So in terms of filling the gaps, which certainly needs to be done to some extent as I'm basically pouring heat down the cracks at the minute. Do pine slivers fit the bill best? and then wood-fill any holes etc?
I've done mine a few times. Keep the sawdust from the first round of sanding. Mix a little up with PVA glue until it reaches a thick Tuna mayo like consistency. Paste this between the boards. When dried it will sand down nicely with the 2nd sanding. So in terms of filling the gaps, which certainly needs to be done to some extent as I'm basically pouring heat down the cracks at the minute. Do pine slivers fit the bill best? and then wood-fill any holes etc?
JimmyJam said:
I've done mine a few times. Keep the sawdust from the first round of sanding. Mix a little up with PVA glue until it reaches a thick Tuna mayo like consistency. Paste this between the boards. When dried it will sand down nicely with the 2nd sanding.
If you are doing the floor over the course of a weekend you could probably do this on the first day as the initial leveling creates a load of sawdust...JimmyJam said:
okgo said:
Thanks!
So in terms of filling the gaps, which certainly needs to be done to some extent as I'm basically pouring heat down the cracks at the minute. Do pine slivers fit the bill best? and then wood-fill any holes etc?
I've done mine a few times. Keep the sawdust from the first round of sanding. Mix a little up with PVA glue until it reaches a thick Tuna mayo like consistency. Paste this between the boards. When dried it will sand down nicely with the 2nd sanding. So in terms of filling the gaps, which certainly needs to be done to some extent as I'm basically pouring heat down the cracks at the minute. Do pine slivers fit the bill best? and then wood-fill any holes etc?
BUT... if you have the time and energy to fill the gaps with real wood, then go for it. It will be a pain but it's the better job and you will be proud when all is said and done.
At the end of the day, filler is filler is filler.
JimmyJam said:
I've done mine a few times. Keep the sawdust from the first round of sanding. Mix a little up with PVA glue until it reaches a thick Tuna mayo like consistency. Paste this between the boards. When dried it will sand down nicely with the 2nd sanding.
Sarah Beeney said the same though to be honest I don't watch her for her great tips.... 
Beeney's gone to the dogs and I'm not that bothered about scruffy birds.Right after much effort and time I have I would say 75% filled the gaps with pine slivers and it looks far better for it. There are however some gaps that just will not take this method as they're too narrow.
I've got some wood filler, but at present its not really a great match for the floor, but I think its quite close to the colour of the varnish.
Question - with the remaining gaps, is the PVA/sawdust the best or should I use wood filler?
And with either option I guess I have to do them after the first sand?
I've got some wood filler, but at present its not really a great match for the floor, but I think its quite close to the colour of the varnish.
Question - with the remaining gaps, is the PVA/sawdust the best or should I use wood filler?
And with either option I guess I have to do them after the first sand?
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