How to attach wooden board to insulated plasterboard?
Discussion
I have had thick insulated plasterboard dot and dabbed to the existing brick wall, and then plastered over. see pic to get an idea of how thick the plasterboard is
Now above the window I want to attach a wooden batten painted white that will be used to attach blinds to. The reason for this is I don't want to attach blinds directly to the plasterboard. It is a rented flat so renters won't be delicate with something attached to plasterboard. Hence I want to attach the board to the brick wall further behind the plasterboard. I can then put up other blinds in future years without knackering my wall up. Any ideas for the fixing?
How it is:
How I will have a bit of wood:
Now above the window I want to attach a wooden batten painted white that will be used to attach blinds to. The reason for this is I don't want to attach blinds directly to the plasterboard. It is a rented flat so renters won't be delicate with something attached to plasterboard. Hence I want to attach the board to the brick wall further behind the plasterboard. I can then put up other blinds in future years without knackering my wall up. Any ideas for the fixing?
How it is:
How I will have a bit of wood:
You'll be best to screw right the way through to the brickwork. The trouble you might have is the type of lintel above the window. If it's timber or concrete, then not too much of a problem, just might need a longish drill bit.
Gripfill it as well as the screws should provide a decent fixing.
Gripfill it as well as the screws should provide a decent fixing.
thanks. I had a look at my pics and found this one, so the lower section I could screw into the wooded lintel. Above it is plaster over brick (no concrete lintel when this house was built). I will take a look at the Fischer fixings for the upper screws into plaster / brick, and look for some long screws for the lower fixings into wood! The upper plaster was not very well bonded to the brick iirc but I wasn't worried as the whole lot was being boarded.
Have a look at the Fischer heavy duty plasterboard plugs, with the lugs.
I put a rail up on a bathroom ceiling for someone a while ago using these plugs. I thought it was to hang towels etc, he uses it for hanging wet Barbour coats.
Should work a treat in insulated board as well. Toolstation sell them.
I put a rail up on a bathroom ceiling for someone a while ago using these plugs. I thought it was to hang towels etc, he uses it for hanging wet Barbour coats.
Should work a treat in insulated board as well. Toolstation sell them.
In that above pic, the timber you can see is not the lintel but the top of the box frame of the window. Somewhere behind the plaster above it will be some form of lintel.
Looking at the the first pics, it seems to have been boarded over the edges of the timber frame, all okay unless you want to change the window! But as that timber frame of the window is behind the boarding and as long as it is high enough then just screw straight into that.
Looking at the the first pics, it seems to have been boarded over the edges of the timber frame, all okay unless you want to change the window! But as that timber frame of the window is behind the boarding and as long as it is high enough then just screw straight into that.
I had the same insulated plasterboard on my back wall. two things:
1) bloody nightmare to attach some faceplates to the backing plates on some speaker sockets I put in, I ended up using 3 m3.5 extenders on one bolt.
2) I used these:
http://www.diy.com/departments/rawlplug-silver-eff...
to attach some speaker brackets. I would say 3 or 4 of these with some no more nails or similar would do the trick.
1) bloody nightmare to attach some faceplates to the backing plates on some speaker sockets I put in, I ended up using 3 m3.5 extenders on one bolt.
2) I used these:
http://www.diy.com/departments/rawlplug-silver-eff...
to attach some speaker brackets. I would say 3 or 4 of these with some no more nails or similar would do the trick.
^+1 If you use 3'' x 1'' timber for the curtain rail bearer and make the bottom of it flush with where the plaster stops you will be able to fasten into the liner mentioned above. They are usually 7/8'' thick and strong enough to take the weight of curtains. When I have to fix these, I hold the timber in position where it needs to go, mark the outline in pencil, then have a root round within the pencil lines to find where there is some timber, either the liner or the timber lintel, to fasten to, saves having to start messing around with plugs etc. I'd make the timber slightly longer than you've indicated too, that way the curtains will hang clear of the opening when open.
ETA referring to MGTony's post
ETA referring to MGTony's post
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