kitchen fitting snag
Discussion
Fitting the kitchen tonight I came across a small snag. The corner post supplied with the kitchen is 70mm and my gap is only 54mm. I'd rather not cut the corner post down to size as you'd see the cut side and it would risk splintering the edge/face.
My preferred option is to take 16mm from the rear of the cabs. what other problems are going to arise from this solution? Were having quartz fitted for the worktops. will there be any issues from an under mounted sink with the reduced worktop depth?
My preferred option is to take 16mm from the rear of the cabs. what other problems are going to arise from this solution? Were having quartz fitted for the worktops. will there be any issues from an under mounted sink with the reduced worktop depth?
TSCfree said:
ATTAK Z said:
Shouldn't that corner post be fitted before the blanking panel on the corner unit ? ... that'll give you another 16-18mm
Yes, you're quite right. Unfortunately I've already taken that into consideration. TSCfree said:
Big Al. said:
I'd personally cut the corner piece, it won't show when finished.
It's definitely the easier option. circular saw job? It probably won't show but I'd know it was there...
Big Al. said:
TSCfree said:
Yeah, I could probably get my hands on one for the day. Any preferred cutter choice
What ever your comfortable with, for a one off job HSS cutter 6, 9 or 12mm cut it down to the line slowly, and don't rush it. TSCfree said:
Well I can practice on the offcut end before I run it down the line. The tricky bit will be the handle area as its quite a thin profile. If I start at that end and take half the material away (9mm), then finish it off on the second pass. Does it matter on a router which way the round the best face should be cut (uppermost or lowermost?)
It doesn't matter which face is up or down (as long as you protect the side you slide the router on). It does matter which end the router bit cuts out of. As the bit edge comes through the laminate at the end of the cut it can chip some off, so make sure this is the bottom end to hide any damage.I hope there's a damn good reason why you can't move the left hand side of that run 16mm to the left.
If not then you are going to be trimming the corner post.
I'd be putting in some effort to build a jig to hold it securely, and ensure that any cut you make is guided by a rail of some sort. Nice new, fine tooth blade shouldn't chip too much if cut from the back.
If not then you are going to be trimming the corner post.
I'd be putting in some effort to build a jig to hold it securely, and ensure that any cut you make is guided by a rail of some sort. Nice new, fine tooth blade shouldn't chip too much if cut from the back.
grimmac said:
I hope there's a damn good reason why you can't move the left hand side of that run 16mm to the left.
If not then you are going to be trimming the corner post.
I'd be putting in some effort to build a jig to hold it securely, and ensure that any cut you make is guided by a rail of some sort. Nice new, fine tooth blade shouldn't chip too much if cut from the back.
Believe me this is a last resort!If not then you are going to be trimming the corner post.
I'd be putting in some effort to build a jig to hold it securely, and ensure that any cut you make is guided by a rail of some sort. Nice new, fine tooth blade shouldn't chip too much if cut from the back.
It pushed out the cooker/hob out of alignment with the extractor as I cant move the wall units any further left. Is 16mm going to look odd?
Rosscow said:
Got any joinery shops locally? Just ask them to cut it down a couple of millimetres on the large side and then finish it off on a linisher to get a nice clean edge.
We do this quite often, normally just ask them for a tenner
Good shout. just had a quick google and its surprising hard to find an actual workshop anymore.We do this quite often, normally just ask them for a tenner
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