Bleach - stained pine...fix?
Discussion
Hello DIY contingent.
I expect this to be moved but here goes.
I've a pine chest of drawers that has bleached areas caused by a certain ex putting a bottle of spray bleach on it. It has whitish patches burnt out of the honey-coloured finish.
I don't usually do wood 'cos you can't weld it. Googling is giving me fixes for black mould stains on pine floorboards.
I've no clue so is it sand out and restain? Or is it sand, strip, bleach, restain?
In a word, HELP!!!
I expect this to be moved but here goes.
I've a pine chest of drawers that has bleached areas caused by a certain ex putting a bottle of spray bleach on it. It has whitish patches burnt out of the honey-coloured finish.
I don't usually do wood 'cos you can't weld it. Googling is giving me fixes for black mould stains on pine floorboards.
I've no clue so is it sand out and restain? Or is it sand, strip, bleach, restain?
In a word, HELP!!!
Depends on the final acceptable finish TBH.
Ideally you'd like a mm or two off the top, then stain/varnish as appropriate - that'd give you the best possible finish. If you could be arsed.
I'd accept that staining/varnishing was an unavoidable reality and set to work with an orbital (or if seriously deep, belt) sander. Work with the grain,longways as much as you can and 'sweep' the inevitable trough out.
Finish to taste.
Pour beer and enjoy.
Ideally you'd like a mm or two off the top, then stain/varnish as appropriate - that'd give you the best possible finish. If you could be arsed.
I'd accept that staining/varnishing was an unavoidable reality and set to work with an orbital (or if seriously deep, belt) sander. Work with the grain,longways as much as you can and 'sweep' the inevitable trough out.
Finish to taste.
Pour beer and enjoy.
OP - can you feel the removal of any of the surface finish where the bleach has been, or is it just a surface colour change? If the latter, try using T-Cut to buff through the bleached part of the surface finish. If it goes any deeper than that, I suspect you're going to need to remove the surface finish (use stripper and a cabinet scraper, which is a rectangular steel sheet for removing material from flat surfaces, much better than trying to sand to a flat finish) and then refinish with a proprietary finish. Google "best finishes for pine" or similar and you'll find something.
A development! I tried having a go with a Stanley scraper, which showed two things. First, the surface is varnished...it started coming off in little flakes.
Second, the bleach has bitten into the surface, by maybe 1/16". A bit of light sanding means I can feel it - if it was a car, it'd have repair rings.
I tried the teabag trick and this made the patches a shade darker than the rest. Bah!
It looks like I'll have to sand back to the bare surface and redo it. Snag is, my trusty Black and Decker 1/4 sheet sander died last week. I was smoothing the lounge ceiling after filling damage from a water leak. My sander went hyper - hot and now runs at 1/8 speed. Rotten cheat - it's only done hours of car paint/ GRP work and I've only had it for 40 years.
Second, the bleach has bitten into the surface, by maybe 1/16". A bit of light sanding means I can feel it - if it was a car, it'd have repair rings.
I tried the teabag trick and this made the patches a shade darker than the rest. Bah!
It looks like I'll have to sand back to the bare surface and redo it. Snag is, my trusty Black and Decker 1/4 sheet sander died last week. I was smoothing the lounge ceiling after filling damage from a water leak. My sander went hyper - hot and now runs at 1/8 speed. Rotten cheat - it's only done hours of car paint/ GRP work and I've only had it for 40 years.
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