DPC injection kits???
Discussion
Is there a particular one that's better or worse than another??
As part of a small extension I'm having done I need to reduce the level of the existing DPC so I can lower the floor of the utility room at the side of the house. This is needed to increase the ceiling height in the small bedroom above so it can have a bed deck installed. My plan is to excavate down to the required level to install a timber floor but need to reduce the DPC level relative to this drop. Injecting in a new one seems to be the easiest and cheapest way to do it. In total there would be about 5 linear metres to do.
I was going to just put in a solid floor but the ground condition is so s
te I've been advised against it. Also considered block and beaming it but seems mega expensive vs some wood, joist hanger and some visqueen.
Thanks in advance.
As part of a small extension I'm having done I need to reduce the level of the existing DPC so I can lower the floor of the utility room at the side of the house. This is needed to increase the ceiling height in the small bedroom above so it can have a bed deck installed. My plan is to excavate down to the required level to install a timber floor but need to reduce the DPC level relative to this drop. Injecting in a new one seems to be the easiest and cheapest way to do it. In total there would be about 5 linear metres to do.
I was going to just put in a solid floor but the ground condition is so s
te I've been advised against it. Also considered block and beaming it but seems mega expensive vs some wood, joist hanger and some visqueen.Thanks in advance.
What is the construction of the wall, cavity, block or brick?
How much lower than the dpc would the timber floor be? I'd consider tanking internally below the existing dpc if that's still functioning.
For an injected dpc to be effective it needs to permeate the entire width and length of the wall, virtually impossible to achieve. Even more difficult with 4" walls (cavity).
How much lower than the dpc would the timber floor be? I'd consider tanking internally below the existing dpc if that's still functioning.
For an injected dpc to be effective it needs to permeate the entire width and length of the wall, virtually impossible to achieve. Even more difficult with 4" walls (cavity).
I think the downside of you plan is that injecting a 4" wall is largely ineffective, the fluid/cream takes the easiest route which isn't where you want it.
And if there's any crap in your cavity it'll even less effective.
In your situation I would investigate the solid floor more thoroughly. You could then tank up the wall to the existing dpc.
And if there's any crap in your cavity it'll even less effective.
In your situation I would investigate the solid floor more thoroughly. You could then tank up the wall to the existing dpc.
Cheers.
Solid floor is tricky as the ground condition is so ste it's questionable as to how long it'd take to crack. Foundations are going to be piles. I thought about block and beam as you could actually sit these on the existing foundation edge as a bearing and run tanking up to the existing dpc.
To be honest though it's a utility room and I'm going to leave the wall finish as is. So if the small bit of wall below the dpc is a bit damp would it matter? If the joists and floor are isolated from the wall with visqueen they should be fine. Obviously the floor is well ventilated underneath.
My old man (worked as a qs in housebuilding for decades) reckons it'll be reet. I'll have to talk it through a bit more with my builder. AMD, as well as injection dpc I could also add an damp proof paint up to the existing dpc.
Cheers.
Solid floor is tricky as the ground condition is so s
te it's questionable as to how long it'd take to crack. Foundations are going to be piles. I thought about block and beam as you could actually sit these on the existing foundation edge as a bearing and run tanking up to the existing dpc.To be honest though it's a utility room and I'm going to leave the wall finish as is. So if the small bit of wall below the dpc is a bit damp would it matter? If the joists and floor are isolated from the wall with visqueen they should be fine. Obviously the floor is well ventilated underneath.
My old man (worked as a qs in housebuilding for decades) reckons it'll be reet. I'll have to talk it through a bit more with my builder. AMD, as well as injection dpc I could also add an damp proof paint up to the existing dpc.
Cheers.
Edited by dave_s13 on Sunday 5th March 23:21
dave_s13 said:
Cheers.
To be honest though it's a utility room and I'm going to leave the wall finish as is. So if the small bit of wall below the dpc is a bit damp would it matter? If the joists and floor are isolated from the wall with visqueen they should be fine. Obviously the floor is well ventilated underneath.
If the timbers aren't getting damp and any decorative spoiling isn't bothering you then, no, it isn't a problem. To be honest though it's a utility room and I'm going to leave the wall finish as is. So if the small bit of wall below the dpc is a bit damp would it matter? If the joists and floor are isolated from the wall with visqueen they should be fine. Obviously the floor is well ventilated underneath.
Old man is reet, tha' knows.
Novice questions on your diagram
Why are you wrapping DPM around the joist end rather than DPC. I thought DPM was for Vapour and DPC for Capillary action so would expect some DPC wrapped around the ends? Perhaps add both!
Why the Sand, I thought that was just just there to protect the barrier from being damaged if concrete was going on top?
Is the new floor going to be below any air bricks?
As utility room and a small area, how about installing UFH between the joists with some screed on top resting on the insulation? Would be on a separate zone from rest of the house so you can keep on low to help against any damp issues.
Why are you wrapping DPM around the joist end rather than DPC. I thought DPM was for Vapour and DPC for Capillary action so would expect some DPC wrapped around the ends? Perhaps add both!
Why the Sand, I thought that was just just there to protect the barrier from being damaged if concrete was going on top?
Is the new floor going to be below any air bricks?
As utility room and a small area, how about installing UFH between the joists with some screed on top resting on the insulation? Would be on a separate zone from rest of the house so you can keep on low to help against any damp issues.
Edited by hyphen on Monday 6th March 15:19
To be fair, it's an amatuer drawing...... I did it!
This is a bit newer.
And yes, there will be a couple of existing air bricks above the new floor level. Like I said, I'll be leaving the room essentially unfinished in terms of wall finishes. As long as the floor joist don't get damp then I can't see it going badly wrong. I've just planned for a single small radiator and there will be a boiler,fridge freezer, drier (on constantly) and washing machine. They should add a bit of warmth. I thought about ufh but it feels like overkill.
Thanks for the responses. :Thumbup:
This is a bit newer.
And yes, there will be a couple of existing air bricks above the new floor level. Like I said, I'll be leaving the room essentially unfinished in terms of wall finishes. As long as the floor joist don't get damp then I can't see it going badly wrong. I've just planned for a single small radiator and there will be a boiler,fridge freezer, drier (on constantly) and washing machine. They should add a bit of warmth. I thought about ufh but it feels like overkill.
Thanks for the responses. :Thumbup:
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