Stick welding tips
Discussion
Hi guys
Just started learning to stick weld with the aldi inverter welder I bought a while back.
My first couple of welds were like pigeon sh@t but I’ve progress onto this in my first session
The top weld was with 2.5 6013 from screwfix at 75 Amps and the one below it 90
I am still getting the holes like in that pick but they coming out something like this
I have no idea if they look ok, any feedback?
It’s on 6mm steel with my goal to eventually weld my stair frame in 3mm box section but I don’t know if that’s too thin?
I am still finding it hard to actually see where I’m going, I’m trying to do straight lines because a YouTube video said to start out doing them I’ve got a cheapo parkside auto darkening helmet so I don’t have a clue if it’s actually any good?
Also I do find it does give me a bit of a headache, I’m not sure if it’s just getting used to the flashing anyone else find that?
Just started learning to stick weld with the aldi inverter welder I bought a while back.
My first couple of welds were like pigeon sh@t but I’ve progress onto this in my first session
The top weld was with 2.5 6013 from screwfix at 75 Amps and the one below it 90
I am still getting the holes like in that pick but they coming out something like this
I have no idea if they look ok, any feedback?
It’s on 6mm steel with my goal to eventually weld my stair frame in 3mm box section but I don’t know if that’s too thin?
I am still finding it hard to actually see where I’m going, I’m trying to do straight lines because a YouTube video said to start out doing them I’ve got a cheapo parkside auto darkening helmet so I don’t have a clue if it’s actually any good?
Also I do find it does give me a bit of a headache, I’m not sure if it’s just getting used to the flashing anyone else find that?
I bought a cheap stick welder to start out welding.
The trick is to set your amps right. You don’t want too much as you’ll blow a hole through your material.
If it’s too low, it’ll be difficult to strike the arc.
Most of my domestic projects were 3mm box steel. It’s tricky with an arc welder.
I bought a mig welder which is an order of magnitude easier and quicker to use.
If you’re going to be doing a big project, invest in a mig. You won’t regret it.
Having said that, if you’re going to persevere with the arc it’s all about practice. Lots of it
The trick is to set your amps right. You don’t want too much as you’ll blow a hole through your material.
If it’s too low, it’ll be difficult to strike the arc.
Most of my domestic projects were 3mm box steel. It’s tricky with an arc welder.
I bought a mig welder which is an order of magnitude easier and quicker to use.
If you’re going to be doing a big project, invest in a mig. You won’t regret it.
Having said that, if you’re going to persevere with the arc it’s all about practice. Lots of it
I was never that good at stick welding although have just about managed to stick car bodywork together with it 
.
Your headache might be due to the fumes, get yourself a mask/filter, you can get disposable ones. They make a big difference, and you don’t really want to be breathing in welding fumes anyway.
. Your headache might be due to the fumes, get yourself a mask/filter, you can get disposable ones. They make a big difference, and you don’t really want to be breathing in welding fumes anyway.
They don’t look to bad for first attempts on your own.
Don’t know about the new hobby 240 v inverters but the older units were always difficult to strike up with on 240v.
Try butting two pieces together next, you will be able to see the joint so will help with your tracking.
Make sure you keep your rods dry, put them in an oven to dry them and pre warm them, they will absorb moisture, old welders trick is to just short them out on the bench so they heated up before striking.
Try a little more angle rod to pool.
Make sure your mask is the correct darkness for you, might be the cause of your headache, and as said previously wear a mask, when you are learning you tend to be too close and over the arc so the fumes are going right under your helmet, they will make you sick.
Don’t know about the new hobby 240 v inverters but the older units were always difficult to strike up with on 240v.
Try butting two pieces together next, you will be able to see the joint so will help with your tracking.
Make sure you keep your rods dry, put them in an oven to dry them and pre warm them, they will absorb moisture, old welders trick is to just short them out on the bench so they heated up before striking.
Try a little more angle rod to pool.
Make sure your mask is the correct darkness for you, might be the cause of your headache, and as said previously wear a mask, when you are learning you tend to be too close and over the arc so the fumes are going right under your helmet, they will make you sick.
mojitomax said:
I bought a cheap stick welder to start out welding.
The trick is to set your amps right. You don’t want too much as you’ll blow a hole through your material.
If it’s too low, it’ll be difficult to strike the arc.
Most of my domestic projects were 3mm box steel. It’s tricky with an arc welder.
I bought a mig welder which is an order of magnitude easier and quicker to use.
If you’re going to be doing a big project, invest in a mig. You won’t regret it.
Having said that, if you’re going to persevere with the arc it’s all about practice. Lots of it
This inverter welder is quite easy to use to be honest, the stick doesn’t get stuck very often even at low amps, but I think the 90amps works best to my untrained eye.The trick is to set your amps right. You don’t want too much as you’ll blow a hole through your material.
If it’s too low, it’ll be difficult to strike the arc.
Most of my domestic projects were 3mm box steel. It’s tricky with an arc welder.
I bought a mig welder which is an order of magnitude easier and quicker to use.
If you’re going to be doing a big project, invest in a mig. You won’t regret it.
Having said that, if you’re going to persevere with the arc it’s all about practice. Lots of it
But saying that what would be a half decent mig to get?
This is what I would like to do
Quite simple design but I don’t know if it’s too much for a stick welder in 3mm?
My concern would be that Building Control might want you to prove the weld is up to standard and if you don't have the right qualification you won't get it signed off because they can't test the welds. I'd investigate that first.
The actual welding won't cost much to get someone in to do if you have done all the prep and got it ready to go though.
The actual welding won't cost much to get someone in to do if you have done all the prep and got it ready to go though.
paulrockliffe said:
My concern would be that Building Control might want you to prove the weld is up to standard and if you don't have the right qualification you won't get it signed off because they can't test the welds. I'd investigate that first.
The actual welding won't cost much to get someone in to do if you have done all the prep and got it ready to go though.
Good shout that! The actual welding won't cost much to get someone in to do if you have done all the prep and got it ready to go though.
The prep work will be easy just a little time consuming so I might do it all have a little practice and see how I get on. I might get a price in but it is something I want to say that I made! Lol
In all honesty, I'd suggest nipping onto a college night school course or similar.
You're not getting a consistent bead because you're moving too fast, too slow, or holding the electrode too far from the weld. You can experiment with these yourself, but you'd get quicker feedback on a college course. MIG is much easier in being essentially point and squirt, especially for the longer seams you'll have on the stairs.
This is fine for doing random bits of non-structural rotten bits on the car, but I wouldn't want a weld to fail on the stairs.
You're not getting a consistent bead because you're moving too fast, too slow, or holding the electrode too far from the weld. You can experiment with these yourself, but you'd get quicker feedback on a college course. MIG is much easier in being essentially point and squirt, especially for the longer seams you'll have on the stairs.
This is fine for doing random bits of non-structural rotten bits on the car, but I wouldn't want a weld to fail on the stairs.
IrateNinja said:
In all honesty, I'd suggest nipping onto a college night school course or similar.
You're not getting a consistent bead because you're moving too fast, too slow, or holding the electrode too far from the weld. You can experiment with these yourself, but you'd get quicker feedback on a college course. MIG is much easier in being essentially point and squirt, especially for the longer seams you'll have on the stairs.
This is fine for doing random bits of non-structural rotten bits on the car, but I wouldn't want a weld to fail on the stairs.
I did pop in to see if there were any courses around me but there was only course that gave you an NVQ st the end and you have to complete a load of work write ups with health and safety modules the lot.You're not getting a consistent bead because you're moving too fast, too slow, or holding the electrode too far from the weld. You can experiment with these yourself, but you'd get quicker feedback on a college course. MIG is much easier in being essentially point and squirt, especially for the longer seams you'll have on the stairs.
This is fine for doing random bits of non-structural rotten bits on the car, but I wouldn't want a weld to fail on the stairs.
I asked if there were any courses that just got you out welding but I didn’t have any luck, 50/50 practical and classroom based, which really wasn’t my cup of tea!
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