Resin driveway
Discussion
Hi,
Building a house at the moment and starting to think about driveways and options.
Usually have done block drives. The resin option looks good though and with less chance of weeds!. Has anybody any experience and the long term durability of the product, and experience for laying the resin
Got a good MOT base, but looks costly as you have to put a tarmac base down first I believe .
Thank you for the replies in advance
Building a house at the moment and starting to think about driveways and options.
Usually have done block drives. The resin option looks good though and with less chance of weeds!. Has anybody any experience and the long term durability of the product, and experience for laying the resin
Got a good MOT base, but looks costly as you have to put a tarmac base down first I believe .
Thank you for the replies in advance
Resindrives.co.uk layed our drive just over six years ago.
No cracks, no warping, some discoloration but my fault for not maintaining it correctly. Still looks decent but wish I could eliminate small patches of moss. Wary about using a Karcher on it
~50 sq metres cost 10K so not cheap and most of the existing drive was tarmac but quite distressed. Preparation took nearly a week and then the resin was laid in four hours! It's worth saying again: the preparation must done properly.
No complaints; I would recommend this firm. They operate nationwide but a quick look on Google just now gave mixed reviews.
The next job for my workmen was allegedly on the Clooney estate.
See if George left a review!
No cracks, no warping, some discoloration but my fault for not maintaining it correctly. Still looks decent but wish I could eliminate small patches of moss. Wary about using a Karcher on it
~50 sq metres cost 10K so not cheap and most of the existing drive was tarmac but quite distressed. Preparation took nearly a week and then the resin was laid in four hours! It's worth saying again: the preparation must done properly.
No complaints; I would recommend this firm. They operate nationwide but a quick look on Google just now gave mixed reviews.
The next job for my workmen was allegedly on the Clooney estate.
See if George left a review!
Planning might require you to have permeable which is resin bound and more expensive. Resin bonded is impermeable and cheaper. Both need a good base. Tarmac on type one. Resin bound lasts longer. Neither will withstand heavy traffic. Cars are fine but not heavy goods vehicles. Also try to avoid sharp turns as front tyres will break it up.
bristolbaron said:
Google ‘resin driveway pistonheads’ and you’ll come up with plenty of threads. 99% of which will say unless you pay top dollar it will fail and even then you’d have to get lucky with a great firm.
That is pretty much how I read and understood it, if its done properly and right should be golden.I also reckon you need to consider your drive way fully, my old mans had his done and its bare and left no place for plants. He now has to get plant pots and plants and flaff about with that just to re-add some nature and color and along with dealing with the weeds that grow in-between the blocks !
I am not a lover of it, i am a paving company and have had opportunity to get into it but have chosen not to.
The reasons for this are mainly if it goes wrong. Sometimes no matter how well you do a driveway/patio etc if the ground suffers heave then its going to move or in the case of resin it will crack.
Long spells of hot dry weather, or long spells of wet weather, removing a tree etc can all cause it (we are on clay here so its going to be worse).
If it moves and cracks it can't really be repaired to a standard where its not noticeable (not that I'm aware of anyway). This for me is an issue, if we do a driveway and it moves which does very occasionally happen then we can put it right easily. Even if we lay a porcelain patio and it moves it can still be fixed because it will crack down a joint.
The other issue i have is everyones method is by far the best, most i see are a type 1 base of around 100-150mm then 60mm of open grade tarmac then the resin. I am astounded anyone thinks 60mm of tarmac is ok in one huge slab, maybe they are but i wouldn't have the bottle to do it and walk away! concrete is equally as bad, one huge slab with no expansion joints of a thin slab of lean mix is asking for trouble.
type 1 base, re inforced concrete with properly designed expansion joints would be proper but the cost im sure would be prohibitive.
It is very easy to do but its actually a very skilled job, not so much applying the resin but the groundwork underneath. Of course this leads to all sorts of people doing it, and they are all the best, until the job is done
Weeds really aren't an issue imo. if its laid well with tight joints that's a good start, using weedkiller when you see the weeds starting is good, sealing it with resiblock or similar will pretty much mean no weeds for several years.
If it moves it can be fixed.
Im also not a fan of the resin, no one ever chooses gravel unless they either want it for the security or they want it on a budget. Resin is gravel stuck together Unless you have elaborate designs then it basically looks like a cross between tarmac and gravel imo. Thats just my opinion though and doesn't mean i'm right, we all like different things!
The reasons for this are mainly if it goes wrong. Sometimes no matter how well you do a driveway/patio etc if the ground suffers heave then its going to move or in the case of resin it will crack.
Long spells of hot dry weather, or long spells of wet weather, removing a tree etc can all cause it (we are on clay here so its going to be worse).
If it moves and cracks it can't really be repaired to a standard where its not noticeable (not that I'm aware of anyway). This for me is an issue, if we do a driveway and it moves which does very occasionally happen then we can put it right easily. Even if we lay a porcelain patio and it moves it can still be fixed because it will crack down a joint.
The other issue i have is everyones method is by far the best, most i see are a type 1 base of around 100-150mm then 60mm of open grade tarmac then the resin. I am astounded anyone thinks 60mm of tarmac is ok in one huge slab, maybe they are but i wouldn't have the bottle to do it and walk away! concrete is equally as bad, one huge slab with no expansion joints of a thin slab of lean mix is asking for trouble.
type 1 base, re inforced concrete with properly designed expansion joints would be proper but the cost im sure would be prohibitive.
It is very easy to do but its actually a very skilled job, not so much applying the resin but the groundwork underneath. Of course this leads to all sorts of people doing it, and they are all the best, until the job is done
Weeds really aren't an issue imo. if its laid well with tight joints that's a good start, using weedkiller when you see the weeds starting is good, sealing it with resiblock or similar will pretty much mean no weeds for several years.
If it moves it can be fixed.
Im also not a fan of the resin, no one ever chooses gravel unless they either want it for the security or they want it on a budget. Resin is gravel stuck together
Unless you have elaborate designs then it basically looks like a cross between tarmac and gravel imo. Thats just my opinion though and doesn't mean i'm right, we all like different things! m3jappa said:
I am not a lover of it, i am a paving company and have had opportunity to get into it but have chosen not to.
The reasons for this are mainly if it goes wrong. Sometimes no matter how well you do a driveway/patio etc if the ground suffers heave then its going to move or in the case of resin it will crack.
Long spells of hot dry weather, or long spells of wet weather, removing a tree etc can all cause it (we are on clay here so its going to be worse).
If it moves and cracks it can't really be repaired to a standard where its not noticeable (not that I'm aware of anyway). This for me is an issue, if we do a driveway and it moves which does very occasionally happen then we can put it right easily. Even if we lay a porcelain patio and it moves it can still be fixed because it will crack down a joint.
The other issue i have is everyones method is by far the best, most i see are a type 1 base of around 100-150mm then 60mm of open grade tarmac then the resin. I am astounded anyone thinks 60mm of tarmac is ok in one huge slab, maybe they are but i wouldn't have the bottle to do it and walk away! concrete is equally as bad, one huge slab with no expansion joints of a thin slab of lean mix is asking for trouble.
type 1 base, re inforced concrete with properly designed expansion joints would be proper but the cost im sure would be prohibitive.
It is very easy to do but its actually a very skilled job, not so much applying the resin but the groundwork underneath. Of course this leads to all sorts of people doing it, and they are all the best, until the job is done
Weeds really aren't an issue imo. if its laid well with tight joints that's a good start, using weedkiller when you see the weeds starting is good, sealing it with resiblock or similar will pretty much mean no weeds for several years.
If it moves it can be fixed.
Im also not a fan of the resin, no one ever chooses gravel unless they either want it for the security or they want it on a budget. Resin is gravel stuck together Unless you have elaborate designs then it basically looks like a cross between tarmac and gravel imo. Thats just my opinion though and doesn't mean i'm right, we all like different things!
What would be your issue with laying 60mm of asphalt?The reasons for this are mainly if it goes wrong. Sometimes no matter how well you do a driveway/patio etc if the ground suffers heave then its going to move or in the case of resin it will crack.
Long spells of hot dry weather, or long spells of wet weather, removing a tree etc can all cause it (we are on clay here so its going to be worse).
If it moves and cracks it can't really be repaired to a standard where its not noticeable (not that I'm aware of anyway). This for me is an issue, if we do a driveway and it moves which does very occasionally happen then we can put it right easily. Even if we lay a porcelain patio and it moves it can still be fixed because it will crack down a joint.
The other issue i have is everyones method is by far the best, most i see are a type 1 base of around 100-150mm then 60mm of open grade tarmac then the resin. I am astounded anyone thinks 60mm of tarmac is ok in one huge slab, maybe they are but i wouldn't have the bottle to do it and walk away! concrete is equally as bad, one huge slab with no expansion joints of a thin slab of lean mix is asking for trouble.
type 1 base, re inforced concrete with properly designed expansion joints would be proper but the cost im sure would be prohibitive.
It is very easy to do but its actually a very skilled job, not so much applying the resin but the groundwork underneath. Of course this leads to all sorts of people doing it, and they are all the best, until the job is done
Weeds really aren't an issue imo. if its laid well with tight joints that's a good start, using weedkiller when you see the weeds starting is good, sealing it with resiblock or similar will pretty much mean no weeds for several years.
If it moves it can be fixed.
Im also not a fan of the resin, no one ever chooses gravel unless they either want it for the security or they want it on a budget. Resin is gravel stuck together
Unless you have elaborate designs then it basically looks like a cross between tarmac and gravel imo. Thats just my opinion though and doesn't mean i'm right, we all like different things! Too thick to compact properly?
joshleb said:
What would be your issue with laying 60mm of asphalt?
Too thick to compact properly?
I just don't think its thick enough to withstand ground movement and normal usage, a large slab of something 60mm thick hasn't got to do much moving before its cracked. Too thick to compact properly?
Understand though i am not a resin expert, i just know what i see being done etc by others. I could well be very wrong
Bitmac is a flexible surfacing product, it doesn’t crack like concrete does. 60mm is a perfectly viable laying course thickness and is often used as a laying course for block paving on large areas.
A fairly typical bitmac drive way would be 30mm surface course, 55mm binder course and 150+ type 1 sub-base. That would satisfy NHBC quite happily.
On the other hand, if you laid it on a concrete base and had to use expansion joints you’d end up with reflective cracking in the bit-Mac or resin paving where the slabs move diferentially. Wouldn’t have that problem with stone and bitmac
A fairly typical bitmac drive way would be 30mm surface course, 55mm binder course and 150+ type 1 sub-base. That would satisfy NHBC quite happily.
On the other hand, if you laid it on a concrete base and had to use expansion joints you’d end up with reflective cracking in the bit-Mac or resin paving where the slabs move diferentially. Wouldn’t have that problem with stone and bitmac
m3jappa said:
I am not a lover of it, i am a paving company and have had opportunity to get into it but have chosen not to.
Apologies as off topic(ish) but I want to replace a gravel driveway with something I can use axle stands and trolley jacks on (so not gravel or resin). Any suggestions? Am hoping is a decent looking paved option that would work.AlmostUseful said:
Bitmac is a flexible surfacing product, it doesn’t crack like concrete does. 60mm is a perfectly viable laying course thickness and is often used as a laying course for block paving on large areas.
A fairly typical bitmac drive way would be 30mm surface course, 55mm binder course and 150+ type 1 sub-base. That would satisfy NHBC quite happily.
On the other hand, if you laid it on a concrete base and had to use expansion joints you’d end up with reflective cracking in the bit-Mac or resin paving where the slabs move diferentially. Wouldn’t have that problem with stone and bitmac
Interesting and i didn't know that, i have always worked on the premise of how many tarmac or concrete drives do i remove which dont have any cracking. A fairly typical bitmac drive way would be 30mm surface course, 55mm binder course and 150+ type 1 sub-base. That would satisfy NHBC quite happily.
On the other hand, if you laid it on a concrete base and had to use expansion joints you’d end up with reflective cracking in the bit-Mac or resin paving where the slabs move diferentially. Wouldn’t have that problem with stone and bitmac
Still dont want to get into it though
85Carrera said:
Apologies as off topic(ish) but I want to replace a gravel driveway with something I can use axle stands and trolley jacks on (so not gravel or resin). Any suggestions? Am hoping is a decent looking paved option that would work.
I think if its occasional use it would be ok, i dont know for sure but i would say a little board under the axle stands would avoid any damage. m3jappa said:
AlmostUseful said:
Bitmac is a flexible surfacing product, it doesn’t crack like concrete does. 60mm is a perfectly viable laying course thickness and is often used as a laying course for block paving on large areas.
A fairly typical bitmac drive way would be 30mm surface course, 55mm binder course and 150+ type 1 sub-base. That would satisfy NHBC quite happily.
On the other hand, if you laid it on a concrete base and had to use expansion joints you’d end up with reflective cracking in the bit-Mac or resin paving where the slabs move diferentially. Wouldn’t have that problem with stone and bitmac
Interesting and i didn't know that, i have always worked on the premise of how many tarmac or concrete drives do i remove which dont have any cracking. A fairly typical bitmac drive way would be 30mm surface course, 55mm binder course and 150+ type 1 sub-base. That would satisfy NHBC quite happily.
On the other hand, if you laid it on a concrete base and had to use expansion joints you’d end up with reflective cracking in the bit-Mac or resin paving where the slabs move diferentially. Wouldn’t have that problem with stone and bitmac
Still dont want to get into it though
If you’re removing cracked tarmac surfacing I’d hazard a guess it’s been poorly laid (too cold, not enough bitumen) and likely too thin. My driveway is cracked because it’s got about 20mm of surfacing (at most) over a concrete driveway which is pretty awful.
AlmostUseful said:
Concrete cracks quite readily without a proper sub-base, which is why when we design a concrete surface we use a sub-base underneath it, we don’t use concrete as the base.
If you’re removing cracked tarmac surfacing I’d hazard a guess it’s been poorly laid (too cold, not enough bitumen) and likely too thin. My driveway is cracked because it’s got about 20mm of surfacing (at most) over a concrete driveway which is pretty awful.
Just curious, my old man had his block paving done and he was told by 3-4 quotes that Concrete drive ways are superior to block paving + MOT sub base since they don't dip or sink like all the ones you see around the town etc.If you’re removing cracked tarmac surfacing I’d hazard a guess it’s been poorly laid (too cold, not enough bitumen) and likely too thin. My driveway is cracked because it’s got about 20mm of surfacing (at most) over a concrete driveway which is pretty awful.
But the block paver quoter's said concretes for cowboys and they ain't doing it right with the mot sub base depth.
Who to believe really?
Relieve the guys laying the blocks. Have a look through the forum for some of M3Jappas advice and photos, laid properly a stone sub-base, sand laying course and blocks are the perfect driveway, if they have drainage available.
The purpose of the stone is to improve the sub grade of the ground, it gives you a strong and stable base to lay the sand and blocks on, it needs to be laid to the right depth and must have the soft spots under it removed or it will sink. You can use a geo grid (not a Terram textile) to bridge over soft spots and reduce the stone thickness. Terram textile is used to stop the stone being rolled into the ground beneath it, it doesn’t improve strength or load resistance as such.
Concrete is fine, but if the ground is soft under it you’ll still need a stone sub-base to give appropriate support or you can design it as a reinforced slab, as in properly reinforced like a bridge deck, not just some A393 mesh in the base.
The concrete guy was just trying to sell you concrete. If the same guys that laid the sinking blocks laid the concrete it would be just as crap, because the blocks sink due to poor preparation of the ground underneath them.
That’s basically a long way of saying it’s all down to prep and workmanship.
The purpose of the stone is to improve the sub grade of the ground, it gives you a strong and stable base to lay the sand and blocks on, it needs to be laid to the right depth and must have the soft spots under it removed or it will sink. You can use a geo grid (not a Terram textile) to bridge over soft spots and reduce the stone thickness. Terram textile is used to stop the stone being rolled into the ground beneath it, it doesn’t improve strength or load resistance as such.
Concrete is fine, but if the ground is soft under it you’ll still need a stone sub-base to give appropriate support or you can design it as a reinforced slab, as in properly reinforced like a bridge deck, not just some A393 mesh in the base.
The concrete guy was just trying to sell you concrete. If the same guys that laid the sinking blocks laid the concrete it would be just as crap, because the blocks sink due to poor preparation of the ground underneath them.
That’s basically a long way of saying it’s all down to prep and workmanship.
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