Refitting/replacing 16mm floorboards
Discussion
Picture shows the extent of the problem.
Floorboards have been ripped up badly at some point to lay pipes and then not supported properly afterwards.
The rest of the floor is fine and I don't really want the hassle/expense of digging it all up and replacing.
The boards I've pulled up have no tongue or groove left on them so were supported by resting on little blocks of wood on one edge and resting on the 22mm pipes on the right.
Options other than replacing the whole lot with 18mm chipboard that'll be wide enough to bridge over all the pipes?
Floorboards have been ripped up badly at some point to lay pipes and then not supported properly afterwards.
The rest of the floor is fine and I don't really want the hassle/expense of digging it all up and replacing.
The boards I've pulled up have no tongue or groove left on them so were supported by resting on little blocks of wood on one edge and resting on the 22mm pipes on the right.
Options other than replacing the whole lot with 18mm chipboard that'll be wide enough to bridge over all the pipes?
Black_S3 said:
Ahh that makes it easier... Remove another row of floorboards and replace possibly 3 rows of boards with a single plank wide enough to bridge the gap cut in the joists for the pipe.
The problem will be finding the board.I could replace a patch with standard green chipboard floorboard but they're 18mm not 16 so I'd end up with a raised area
.Would a power plane work on chipboard? The more I look at it, the bigger bodge it seems to turn into.
samdale said:
The problem will be finding the board.
I could replace a patch with standard green chipboard floorboard but they're 18mm not 16 so I'd end up with a raised area.
Would a power plane work on chipboard? The more I look at it, the bigger bodge it seems to turn into.
I am NOT a woodworker, but I try! - recently cut the wood flooring chipboard you speak of, it did not take long at all to make all my blades rather blunt.I could replace a patch with standard green chipboard floorboard but they're 18mm not 16 so I'd end up with a raised area
.Would a power plane work on chipboard? The more I look at it, the bigger bodge it seems to turn into.
As others have said, my vote would be to remove flooring either side of the pipes, obtain single plank that covers everything, mark on the plank what lies beneath and screw down.
If I was doing it 9 out of 10 screws would be through the pipes.
I believe they sell 16mm ply, cut to strips in the shop.
As an alternative you could screw lengths of 2 x 3/4 (or similar) to the underside of the board on the RHS of the pipes jutting out to form a support (but just clear of the pipes) all the way along the length of the last board (in sections of course because of the joists).
The proper way would be to lift the boards next to the pipes & fit noggins at 90 degrees to the joist & almost touching the pipes which would give support to the edge of the board over the pipe but you could get away with what I have described above. You need to be very careful screwing the boards back down & I suggest you use consider using Spax flooring screws although they are a bit expensive if you only need a few.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/spax-tx-countersunk-wir...
The proper way would be to lift the boards next to the pipes & fit noggins at 90 degrees to the joist & almost touching the pipes which would give support to the edge of the board over the pipe but you could get away with what I have described above. You need to be very careful screwing the boards back down & I suggest you use consider using Spax flooring screws although they are a bit expensive if you only need a few.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/spax-tx-countersunk-wir...
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