Anything better than Hammerite?
Discussion
No, no, don't shout "POR-15" at me, that needs all underlying rust to be removed or it just comes back, and I won't be that precious on this.
We're only talking some gates and garage door supports so little flex in any of it which seems to be Hammerite's Achilles.
I'll be making the surface to be painted as smooth as possible first with old paint removal, and don't need perfection, so am I just using H, or is there something better out there?
We're only talking some gates and garage door supports so little flex in any of it which seems to be Hammerite's Achilles.
I'll be making the surface to be painted as smooth as possible first with old paint removal, and don't need perfection, so am I just using H, or is there something better out there?
Macron said:
No, no, don't shout "POR-15" at me, that needs all underlying rust to be removed or it just comes back, and I won't be that precious on this.
We're only talking some gates and garage door supports so little flex in any of it which seems to be Hammerite's Achilles.
I'll be making the surface to be painted as smooth as possible first with old paint removal, and don't need perfection, so am I just using H, or is there something better out there?
Just about anything is better in my experience. The H flexes (even if the item doesn't) just with the ambient temperature, and water gets underneath, unseen to rot away the metal. It's amazing how a 'brand name' sells something - I wouldn't even paint my garage shelves with It!. We're only talking some gates and garage door supports so little flex in any of it which seems to be Hammerite's Achilles.
I'll be making the surface to be painted as smooth as possible first with old paint removal, and don't need perfection, so am I just using H, or is there something better out there?
To be positive..... I painted some garden gates I'd welded up, prep was 1) remove any oil with panel wipe. 2) rub with emery cloth (wish I had a sandblaster) 3) clean with panel wipe. 4) brush paint with red oxide primer 5) brush paint with grey undercoat 6) brush paint with rustins satin finish black. Result - after 10 years is that they still look like they were the day I put finished them. Low cost, no brush marks, good protection What more can I add
Fastpedeller said:
Just about anything is better in my experience. The H flexes (even if the item doesn't) just with the ambient temperature, and water gets underneath, unseen to rot away the metal. It's amazing how a 'brand name' sells something - I wouldn't even paint my garage shelves with It!.
To be positive..... I painted some garden gates I'd welded up, prep was 1) remove any oil with panel wipe. 2) rub with emery cloth (wish I had a sandblaster) 3) clean with panel wipe. 4) brush paint with red oxide primer 5) brush paint with grey undercoat 6) brush paint with rustins satin finish black. Result - after 10 years is that they still look like they were the day I put finished them. Low cost, no brush marks, good protection What more can I add
He's starting with rusty gates though so it's a different situation.To be positive..... I painted some garden gates I'd welded up, prep was 1) remove any oil with panel wipe. 2) rub with emery cloth (wish I had a sandblaster) 3) clean with panel wipe. 4) brush paint with red oxide primer 5) brush paint with grey undercoat 6) brush paint with rustins satin finish black. Result - after 10 years is that they still look like they were the day I put finished them. Low cost, no brush marks, good protection What more can I add
227bhp said:
Fastpedeller said:
Just about anything is better in my experience. The H flexes (even if the item doesn't) just with the ambient temperature, and water gets underneath, unseen to rot away the metal. It's amazing how a 'brand name' sells something - I wouldn't even paint my garage shelves with It!.
To be positive..... I painted some garden gates I'd welded up, prep was 1) remove any oil with panel wipe. 2) rub with emery cloth (wish I had a sandblaster) 3) clean with panel wipe. 4) brush paint with red oxide primer 5) brush paint with grey undercoat 6) brush paint with rustins satin finish black. Result - after 10 years is that they still look like they were the day I put finished them. Low cost, no brush marks, good protection What more can I add
He's starting with rusty gates though so it's a different situation.To be positive..... I painted some garden gates I'd welded up, prep was 1) remove any oil with panel wipe. 2) rub with emery cloth (wish I had a sandblaster) 3) clean with panel wipe. 4) brush paint with red oxide primer 5) brush paint with grey undercoat 6) brush paint with rustins satin finish black. Result - after 10 years is that they still look like they were the day I put finished them. Low cost, no brush marks, good protection What more can I add
Frosts chassis black is pretty good. Gloss, satin, tin or aerosol.
https://www.frost.co.uk/frost-chassis-black-paint/
https://www.frost.co.uk/frost-chassis-black-paint/
I'm convinced Hammerite actually contains a rust enhancer - my old neighbour had his gates sandblasted, as they were wrought iron and well rusted - brought them home perfect, and primed and painted them with Hammerite stuff.
Then did the same a year later. They were a right mess.
Jenolite used to sell "Coach Enamel" which beat all the reasonably priced "big shed" available paints, but it has either vanished, or been renamed, it was bulletproof stuff. Re-Paint might be the same stuff, but the name isn't exactly encouraging!
Then did the same a year later. They were a right mess.
Jenolite used to sell "Coach Enamel" which beat all the reasonably priced "big shed" available paints, but it has either vanished, or been renamed, it was bulletproof stuff. Re-Paint might be the same stuff, but the name isn't exactly encouraging!
POR15 actually bonds to rust so you just need to remove any loose bits and ensure it is clean. It actually works better on rough surfaces as it has something to bond to. Its smooth metal it struggles with.
I've painted loads with it over the years (car chassis, cast iron hoppers, even a victorian lamp post) and it is amazing. You need the blackcote or whitecote for a final finish which are UV resistant; the standard POR will fade and look patchy if exposed to UV.
FFG
I've painted loads with it over the years (car chassis, cast iron hoppers, even a victorian lamp post) and it is amazing. You need the blackcote or whitecote for a final finish which are UV resistant; the standard POR will fade and look patchy if exposed to UV.
FFG
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