Fitting a worktop upstand to very uneven wall

[billbring]

Any idea how I'd go about getting this upstand looking good?
The wall bows out by about 12mm in the middle, but there's not just one curve, it starts to go back out again at the end nearest the camera.
When you push it in at the middle, the near end pulls away from the wall, and that is an exposed end so will be very visible. Feels like even if I get it close(ish) there's still a big gap to fill.

[Saleen836]

Is that a timber stud wall?

[2 sMoKiN bArReLs]

Not a solution but...

.....There are loads of things like that in our house. Lots used to annoy the pants off me.

Now, two years in I don't even notice them.

[OMITN]

Line on the wall, filler up to that point?

Or get another length of the upstand and use as a scribed capping along the length? Would obviously have to do the same all around to maintain height + look.

Oh and sack the plasterer..!

[billbring]

Saleen836 said:

Is that a timber stud wall?

No, it's brick. House is a Victorian terrace.
Just to add, the upstand is 18mm solid oak (in case it wasn't obvious) so very inflexible.

[davhill]

You could scribe along the top, chase the plaster out level and be forever annoyed
by the wavy white to wood line along the top.
Bottom line, plaster needs redoing for about two feet, starting at the foot of the upstand
and losing the wanderting as it goes upwards.

[paulrockliffe]

I would just locate decent fixings at the low points and bend the wood to the wall. Lost head screws and some filler is going to look best I'd think.

I should have said I had the same problem and I spent ages ripping the upstand and gluing it into an L shape to give me enough depth to then scribe it to the wall. I wouldn't do that again!

[ChrisnChris]

Hope this makes sense;

If you don't know how to set out a scribe cut, or join to the upstand, or need oak, ask.

[Angpozzuto]

I would probably chase out the bulge in the wall just to reduce the Gap a bit and caulk the tops

[smifffymoto]

Just caulk it,in 6 months you won’t notice.There is a good chance if you try another solution it will be more obvious.

[Ashtray83]

ChrisnChris said:

Hope this makes sense;

If you don't know how to set out a scribe cut, or join to the upstand, or need oak, ask.

This is the only way you will get it looking like it’s been properly fitted although I’d probably go more than 6mm, glue and clamp it overnight scribe to fit, spot on

[ChrisnChris]

Ashtray83 said:

This is the only way you will get it looking like it’s been properly fitted although I’d probably go more than 6mm, glue and clamp it overnight scribe to fit, spot on

6mm is fine, it's not doing anything and zero effort to scribe. Tape joint is good if you haven't got clamps. Make sure that all the "finish" is removed from the back of the oak where you're bonding.
Leave the glue to cure, as Ashtray83 says, overnight.

[hotchy]

smifffymoto said:

Just caulk it,in 6 months you won’t notice.There is a good chance if you try another solution it will be more obvious.

This. Caulk solves everything.

[tris88]

Had the same issue when my kitchen worktop went in (quartz), decorator caulked it and been fine since

[xstian]

We had the same problem in our kitchen.

This is what I did. I fixed screws with large heads into the wall, but left them sticking out 10-15mm ( this depends on the thickness of your upstand). I then drilled 25mm holes into the back of the upstand, so they line up with the screw in the wall. I used a forstner bit to get the hole to the right depth. I then used no nails to glue it to the wall. You will need something to hold the upstand in place while waiting for then glue to go off. I used a couple of sprung loaded poles, but a couple of pieces of wood cut to length and wedged against the opposite wall would also work. This was 5 years ago and hasn't been moved.

[SEDon]

Looks like the walls in my house. Replastering is the only way it will look right but who can be bothered with that. It doesn't look too bad in the 2nd photo, it's probably too rigid for this but you might be able to put a series of kerf cuts in the back which would give you enough flex to force it to the wall at the end whilst keeping it close in the middle, then caulk/fill the gaps left. Otherwise i'd go down the scribe route, do a reasonable job and chances are you'll forget about it soon

[billbring]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I think to get the best finish I'm going to have to even out the wall a bit and it seems about the same amount of effort to stick some plaster on and paint it as it does to get more oak and scribe cut.

[nikaiyo2]

Haha my work top is like that at one edge, I put a bit of clear silicone in the gap when it was fitted and planned to get a joiner to make a nice oak quadrant to cover it... that was 5 years ago, must get round to the quadrant bit, just dont notice it now.

[FarmyardPants]

I would rather have a straight upstand with uneven caulk than a wavy upstand Following the contours of the wall.

[DKL]

Could you put a low tile splashback (3 or 4 courses) on top of the upstand? It would cover the gap and look less uneven I'd imagine.