Roofing question
Discussion
trickywoo said:
Pretty normal but you should have felt / membrane between the rafters and tiles which should block most light coming through the edge of the tiles.
This has not always been the case, my parents had a 1930's house which had no sarking felt, as did my 1906 house before we had it re roofedHereward said:
Same as mine. It's bone dry. The bonus is that your loft space will be well ventilated!
Make sure you have plenty of insulation at the joist level and ensure pipes / tanks are well insulated too.
Funnily enough I was launching some more insulation up there to do do at a later date when I noticed!Make sure you have plenty of insulation at the joist level and ensure pipes / tanks are well insulated too.
Edited by Hereward on Sunday 18th September 10:02
I’ve had a 30s house and you could look out through the tiles, never leaked but it was hard to keep clean in there.
We’re at a house at the moment and the roof isn’t great, torching falling away had a repair to one pitch….
looks like it might need the tiles off, new felt and tiles back.
The tiles are concrete and I’ve been told they only have around a 50 year life span and the house is 1940s.
Sounding expensive.
We’re at a house at the moment and the roof isn’t great, torching falling away had a repair to one pitch….
looks like it might need the tiles off, new felt and tiles back.
The tiles are concrete and I’ve been told they only have around a 50 year life span and the house is 1940s.
Sounding expensive.
I'm a surveyor and have seen hundreds of houses without roofing felt where the torching has dropped off as inevitably it does. It rarely causes a problem from an ingress point of view but it's usually a pretty good 'marker' that the roof is approaching the end of it's life as it confirms its age. Though I have seen plenty of Honister slate roofs copper nailed that are still good well over 100 years after laying.
Also worth remembering that, contrary to common belief, the principal purpose of underlay or torching (or sarking in Scotland) is to control wind +/- pressure in the roof space and keep the coverings on the roof. Catching stray drips is secondary - if the pitch and lap is correct for the exposure there should not be any ingress regardless.
Also worth remembering that, contrary to common belief, the principal purpose of underlay or torching (or sarking in Scotland) is to control wind +/- pressure in the roof space and keep the coverings on the roof. Catching stray drips is secondary - if the pitch and lap is correct for the exposure there should not be any ingress regardless.
My house is 1939 and had just the tiles. I had them all taken off, felt down and re-battoned and tiles put back. Made a huge difference to the loft space and eliminated all the dust and crap that used to get in over time. I've now boarded the inside of the rafters (with open gap behind for ventilation, painted white and LED lights, double insulated the floor, boarded to the edge and put carpet tiles down. Now a clean and bright space to store lots of crap instead of the dirty musty space it was before. Whis I'd done it sooner as the rest of the house does not have lots of storage.
Lead flashings are the ones that fit to the side of the chimney and are turned into the brickwork, giving a sawtooth effect(usually). Lead soakers are the ones that lay on the roof, sometimes they sit between the tiles and are unseen, sometimes they sit on top and are visible, it depends on the type of tile.
Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff