Soil stack replacement

[3xAAA]

I’ve been quoted £520 to replace my cracked and leaking soil stack, as part of a new bathroom I am having fitted to my very ordinary 3-bed semi.

I’ve been advised that they won’t be lifting the patio block paving to fix directly into the drains, but will instead cut the existing pipe 45mm off the ground, and then use a 110mm coupling to join the replacement stack.

Does this sound like a legitimate technique?

I suppose I am just worried if it looks like a bodge, or if it'll need to be re-done when I get a new patio in the not-too-distant future (due to the new patio being at the correct/lower level than the existing one).

[Pheo]

My cast iron replacement was the same, cut off near ground level then a connector. Has been fine for 7+ years so don’t think it’s an issue. Also possible the sizes are different, and a connector above ground is a lot easier to fix than one below if something does go wrong!

[RATATTAK]

I'd be more worried about the pointing above the soldier course over the window/door.

[Mr Pointy]

When the patio is replaced could you get the join replaced by a continuous run up to the bathroom level? Maybe get the bathroom bunch to supply the pipe now so it matches.

[wolfracesonic]

Nothing wrong with using a coupler rather than disturbing the block paving, though if the SVP goes straight into the ground i.e no gulley, it’s a good idea to have a rodding eye fitting at low level, just in case. I’m guessing the dodgy looking pointing is due to recently removed conservatory?

Something like this, just in case…

[imck]

MIne is done the same way.
Roofer changed my painted/peeling soil pipes for black as part of soffits, gutters (also painted) etc.

The only 'problem' is you may end up with a bit of tatty old pipe on view when your patio is lowered.
Can you lift the blocks out yourself to get to the joint?

[3xAAA]

RATATTAK said:

I'd be more worried about the pointing above the soldier course over the window/door.

Already sorted!

wolfracesonic said:

Nothing wrong with using a coupler rather than disturbing the block paving, though if the SVP goes straight into the ground i.e no gulley, it’s a good idea to have a rodding eye fitting at low level, just in case. I’m guessing the dodgy looking pointing is due to recently removed conservatory?

Something like this, just in case…

A correct assumption about the conservatory, and thanks for the suggestion about a rodding eye fitting, I don't think I have one at the moment.

What do we think about the price of £520? I've priced up the parts at Screwfix to about £170, and it can't take a couple of professionals more than an hour to fit - so I'm inclined to say £520 is very heavy?

[RATATTAK]

wolfracesonic said:

......... though if the SVP goes straight into the ground i.e no gulley ........

SVPs don't have a gully.

ETA
glad you sorted the pointing OP

Edited by RATATTAK on Wednesday 27th December 18:57

[3xAAA]

imck said:

MIne is done the same way.
Roofer changed my painted/peeling soil pipes for black as part of soffits, gutters (also painted) etc.

The only 'problem' is you may end up with a bit of tatty old pipe on view when your patio is lowered.
Can you lift the blocks out yourself to get to the joint?

I suppose in theory I could lift the blocks myself, but it's how difficult this would be and the mess it'll create along the way.

Also it's interesting to see the major retailers no longer selling brown piping, only black, white, grey. Do we know why this is?

[wolfracesonic]

RATATTAK said:

SVPs don't have a gully.

ETA
glad you sorted the pointing OP

Edited by RATATTAK on Wednesday 27th December 18:57

True dat, would get kinda messy thinking about it

[RATATTAK]

wolfracesonic said:

RATATTAK said:

SVPs don't have a gully.

ETA
glad you sorted the pointing OP

Edited by RATATTAK on Wednesday 27th December 18:57

True dat, would get kinda messy thinking about it

and smelly !

[Simpo Two]

Anything would be better than the current mess of pipes. It looks like an Underground map!

[3xAAA]

Simpo Two said:

Anything would be better than the current mess of pipes. It looks like an Underground map!

I'm not sure how new like-for-like replacement will make it look any tidier

[Simpo Two]

3xAAA said:

Simpo Two said:

Anything would be better than the current mess of pipes. It looks like an Underground map!

I'm not sure how new like-for-like replacement will make it look any tidier

True, but this is a great opportunity to make it look nicer... rather than assembled by chimpanzees

[Andeh1]

3xAAA said:

A correct assumption about the conservatory, and thanks for the suggestion about a rodding eye fitting, I don't think I have one at the moment.

What do we think about the price of £520? I've priced up the parts at Screwfix to about £170, and it can't take a couple of professionals more than an hour to fit - so I'm inclined to say £520 is very heavy?

Ladders, dodgy glued joints needing cutting, stripped screws, adjusting it all to length,then the smell and joy of finding stuff trapped along the joints. Disposal of lengths of wet and smelly pipe etc.

Im not sure that is entirely unreasonable tbh.

[Fore Left]

3xAAA said:

What do we think about the price of £520? I've priced up the parts at Screwfix to about £170, and it can't take a couple of professionals more than an hour to fit - so I'm inclined to say £520 is very heavy?

£350 for labour sounds quite reasonable to me given that (a) it's going to take more than an hour and (b) they're unlikely to have / get another job for the rest of the day.

[Rushjob]

3xAAA said:

A correct assumption about the conservatory, and thanks for the suggestion about a rodding eye fitting, I don't think I have one at the moment.

What do we think about the price of £520? I've priced up the parts at Screwfix to about £170, and it can't take a couple of professionals more than an hour to fit - so I'm inclined to say £520 is very heavy?

So what do you consider the correct hourly rate is for someone to come and potentially work up to their elbows in your st?

As for the comment it'll only take an hour, which part of your obvious expertise in plumbing and groundworks do you base that on?

Sorry but you sound like the type of client that trades only work for once.

[3xAAA]

Thanks for the input.

I’m a bit more reassured that £520 is not excessive, as the tradesman is already booked fit a new bathroom, so it saves me the hassle of finding someone else.

I am tempted to lift the block paving myself though. A brick on either side and then a hand trowel to excavate. I won’t be able to put it back perfectly but I’d take comfort in knowing it was done right.

How deep is the pipe likely to go before it joins the other drains?

Rushjob said:

So what do you consider the correct hourly rate is for someone to come and potentially work up to their elbows in your st?

As for the comment it'll only take an hour, which part of your obvious expertise in plumbing and groundworks do you base that on?

Sorry but you sound like the type of client that trades only work for once.

Don't forget I finished that sentence with a question mark.

I value the wider knowledge of posters who give up their time to help answer my post. I've had three people suggest it's not unreasonable, in which case I will go with it.

[imck]

3xAAA said:

Thanks for the input.

I am tempted to lift the block paving myself though. A brick on either side and then a hand trowel to excavate. I won’t be able to put it back perfectly but I’d take comfort in knowing it was done right.

How deep is the pipe likely to go before it joins the other drains?

Mine was 8-10 inches down from the path to the socket.
Not sure there is a standard depth!

I was having old council type concrete flags replaced with blocks so just broke up the flag/concrete around the pipe with a club hammer.

[RATATTAK]

imck said:

Mine was 8-10 inches down from the path to the socket.
Not sure there is a standard depth!

I was having old council type concrete flags replaced with blocks so just broke up the flag/concrete around the pipe with a club hammer.

There isn't a standard depth but the SVP should be connected to a slow bend (large radius) so it won't be too deep. Don't forget that when you expose the foul drain there will be a smell, so have some sort of stopper ready ... a plastic bag and a big rubber band.